• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Squier Vintage Modified Precision V: who's got one?

I'm really excited about an order I placed with Bass Strings Online last night.

The most important mod I made to my VMP5, was a set of BT (balanced tension) nickel rounds from BSO. I never realized how funky standard string sets are, until I tried good a low tension string set with perfectly balanced tension and tone. No more complaints about flabby B strings on Fender 5-strings from me...

Still, as nice as my VMP5 is, my Dingwall gets 90% of the action. It simply covers modern round-wound tones better than anything else I've played.

I recently started thinking about moving the P-bass into Jameson territory, for a little more contrast. However, I didn't want old-school, high-tension La Bella flats.

Some time in D'Addario's excellent string tension chart revealed that they although they don't offer Chromes in BT sets, they make all the right gauges as singles. BSO's pricing on singles is very fair, and 40 to 132 in BT is only a couple of dollars more than the regular 5-string Chromes.

Imagine a set of Chromes with only a pinch more overall string tension than a regular set of nickel rounds, a supple feel and a nice, tight low B. I can't wait for the mailman!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dr. Cheese
I'm really excited about an order I placed with Bass Strings Online last night.

The most important mod I made to my VMP5, was a set of BT (balanced tension) nickel rounds from BSO. I never realized how funky standard string sets are, until I tried good a low tension string set with perfectly balanced tension and tone. No more complaints about flabby B strings on Fender 5-strings from me...

Still, as nice as my VMP5 is, my Dingwall gets 90% of the action. It simply covers modern round-wound tones better than anything else I've played.

I recently started thinking about moving the P-bass into Jameson territory, for a little more contrast. However, I didn't want old-school, high-tension La Bella flats.

Some time in D'Addario's excellent string tension chart revealed that they although they don't offer Chromes in BT sets, they make all the right gauges as singles. BSO's pricing on singles is very fair, and 40 to 132 in BT is only a couple of dollars more than the regular 5-string Chromes.

Imagine a set of Chromes with only a pinch more overall string tension than a regular set of nickel rounds, a supple feel and a nice, tight low B. I can't wait for the mailman!
What are your gauges for your balanced set?
 
It seems I have a love/hate relationship with my VM P5. My favorite single pickup basses use the Stingray location for their pickup, but I cannot deny how good my P5 sounds when use it. I played it in church this weekend, and the choir just loved it on a song we did that sounded like the Staples Singers! My VM P5 is also my lightest five, which meant I played standing a lot more than usual too.
 
Last edited:
It seems I have a love/hate relationship with my VM P5. My favorite single pickup basses use the Stingray location for their pickup, but I cannot deny how good my P5 sounds when use it.
I'm not the only one, then!

My first "good" bass was a '64 Precision, and I loved/hated it with a passion for 13 years. It looked plain, with the painted finish and dot markers. It sounded plain compared the "coffee table basses" that some of my prog rock heroes were playing. But it worked great on the gig, partly because it seemed to beg me to play simply- more Duck Dunn than Roger Entwhistle.

Bandleaders always complained when I showed up with an exotic bass and started showboating...
 
I'm not the only one, then!

My first "good" bass was a '64 Precision, and I loved/hated it with a passion for 13 years. It looked plain, with the painted finish and dot markers. It sounded plain compared the "coffee table basses" that some of my prog rock heroes were playing. But it worked great on the gig, partly because it seemed to beg me to play simply- more Duck Dunn than Roger Entwhistle.

Bandleaders always complained when I showed up with an exotic bass and started showboating...

Yes, P-basses simply work in most situations. To be honest, I cannot think of any support situation where a Precision does not work.
 
What are your gauges for your balanced set?
Balanced tension nickel rounds are available in two gauges:
XL220BT plus an XLB130 single: 172lb total string pull, 34.4lb average per string, 1.6lb variance between the loosest (the A), and the tightest (D).

XL160BT plus an XLB145: 50-145, 243lb total, 48.6lb average, 9.6lb between loosest and tightest (D and B).

I tried the heavier set first, but 243lb is way up there, and it made the VMP5 sound a bit dead. It sings much better with the light set, and thanks to BT, the top strings sound just as full and warm as the bottom.

There's only one option for Chromes with a low B in BT:
CB40, CB055, CB075, CB095, CB132: 40-132, 182lb total, 36.3lb average, 2.4lb variance.

Heavier-gauge Chromes would need a bigger B string for balance, and D'Addario doesn't offer one.

To compare balanced-tension sets to their regular counterparts, XL170-5's were my go-to medium gauge nickel round set for Fender V's. Pretty stiff overall (nearly 200lb), yet the B string is wicked floppy at 32.1lb. The D string is over 16lb tighter! The light set wasn't that great, either. EXL220-5's have nearly 12lb more tension on the D string, than on the floppy .125 B string.

Regular D'Addario flats aren't much better: The B string in the ECB81-5 set is nearly 10lb softer than the G.

No wonder I used to think you needed a 35" scale to get a good low B...
 
Balanced tension nickel rounds are available in two gauges:
XL220BT plus an XLB130 single: 172lb total string pull, 34.4lb average per string, 1.6lb variance between the loosest (the A), and the tightest (D).

XL160BT plus an XLB145: 50-145, 243lb total, 48.6lb average, 9.6lb between loosest and tightest (D and B).

I tried the heavier set first, but 243lb is way up there, and it made the VMP5 sound a bit dead. It sings much better with the light set, and thanks to BT, the top strings sound just as full and warm as the bottom.

There's only one option for Chromes with a low B in BT:
CB40, CB055, CB075, CB095, CB132: 40-132, 182lb total, 36.3lb average, 2.4lb variance.

Heavier-gauge Chromes would need a bigger B string for balance, and D'Addario doesn't offer one.

To compare balanced-tension sets to their regular counterparts, XL170-5's were my go-to medium gauge nickel round set for Fender V's. Pretty stiff overall (nearly 200lb), yet the B string is wicked floppy at 32.1lb. The D string is over 16lb tighter! The light set wasn't that great, either. EXL220-5's have nearly 12lb more tension on the D string, than on the floppy .125 B string.

Regular D'Addario flats aren't much better: The B string in the ECB81-5 set is nearly 10lb softer than the G.

No wonder I used to think you needed a 35" scale to get a good low B...

Interesting aproach, im not one to use a balance set but i get the principal behind it, I use TI flats on mine and that .136 B string is floppy, it took a meticulous setup, hand technique and eq tweaks to make the B string sound undull.
 
I'm considering the VMP five stringer or an Ibanez SR655 or just getting a decent 4 stringer pbass and going BEAD. I want the mix cutting pbass sound with a decent B string. Part of the draw of the Squier is the simplicity of a passive pbass.

Which do you recommend?
 
I've just gotten one of these! I'm really enjoying it but I'm trying to settle on my strings. I'm loving the P-bass with flats sound right now.

I've got some 2-year old Sadowsky Black Labels on this right now. I'm mostly happy. I'm still working out the string balance after lowering the pickups and trying to even them out.
My "E" is still more noticeably dull than the others. Not sure if that's a pickup or string problem. Having 1/2 of the pickup that services 3 strings makes it so the "E" height seems to be sacrificed as you adjust the "B" and "D" sides up/down.

Any tips or thoughts on this?
 
I've just gotten one of these! I'm really enjoying it but I'm trying to settle on my strings. I'm loving the P-bass with flats sound right now.

I've got some 2-year old Sadowsky Black Labels on this right now. I'm mostly happy. I'm still working out the string balance after lowering the pickups and trying to even them out.
My "E" is still more noticeably dull than the others. Not sure if that's a pickup or string problem. Having 1/2 of the pickup that services 3 strings makes it so the "E" height seems to be sacrificed as you adjust the "B" and "D" sides up/down.

Any tips or thoughts on this?

Adjust pickup height, that really brought my B string to life, it might work for your E.
 
Those three cover a pretty wide spread...

BEAD has the advantage of familiar feel, and very broad array of nice 4-bangers to convert. Cheapest of the lot, if you use Craigslist wisely.

But you lose all the other positional and creative advantages of having a 5th string, along with the upper register tones of a G string.

The SR offers a lot of bling and flexibility for the buck- Nordies, Elixirs, 3-band EQ, P/J, etc. The natural ash version at Sweetwater has an upscale look about it. It also offers the slimmest, "fastest" neck you can get at this price point.

On the flip side, it's a fiddly little monster compared to a passive P Bass, and the most expensive option. SR ergonomics are also an acquired taste- the small proportions, tight spacing at the bridge, and pencil-neck are a love-it-or-hate-it deal.

All you need to say about the VMP5, is that it's a good P Bass with an extra string. All the usual advantages are present- familiarity, friendly proportions, one tone to rule them all... The neck carve is perfect for a first fiver, and it comes at a ridiculously low price.

On the downside, the VMP5 is just that. A plain, old-school P: One volume, one tone, strings and tuners. A good player can do a lot with it, but knob-twisters need not apply.
 
Those three cover a pretty wide spread...

BEAD has the advantage of familiar feel, and very broad array of nice 4-bangers to convert. Cheapest of the lot, if you use Craigslist wisely.

But you lose all the other positional and creative advantages of having a 5th string, along with the upper register tones of a G string.

The SR offers a lot of bling and flexibility for the buck- Nordies, Elixirs, 3-band EQ, P/J, etc. The natural ash version at Sweetwater has an upscale look about it. It also offers the slimmest, "fastest" neck you can get at this price point.

On the flip side, it's a fiddly little monster compared to a passive P Bass, and the most expensive option. SR ergonomics are also an acquired taste- the small proportions, tight spacing at the bridge, and pencil-neck are a love-it-or-hate-it deal.

All you need to say about the VMP5, is that it's a good P Bass with an extra string. All the usual advantages are present- familiarity, friendly proportions, one tone to rule them all... The neck carve is perfect for a first fiver, and it comes at a ridiculously low price.

On the downside, the VMP5 is just that. A plain, old-school P: One volume, one tone, strings and tuners. A good player can do a lot with it, but knob-twisters need not apply.
I'm not really a knob twister but the 655 does offer a lot of bang for the buck. I can get one new for $439 so only $80 more than the VMP5. But there is something to be said for the simplicity of a decent passive pbass. I'm leaning towards the KISS principle of the VMP5. But I also really like the neck and string spacing of the 655. And since it does have a true passive mode it might be worth it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Starflyer59
I am having a hard time intonating this bass. My G is intonated, everything else is a little sharp. Does anyone else have this problem?
Don't understand your question.

Do you mean that all the saddles are as far back as they can go?

Sometimes a saddle or two may be coil-bound (the spring behind the saddle is too long), but that's an easy fix- just clip a few turns off the end of the spring.

Can you post a picture of the bridge area?
 
Don't understand your question.

Do you mean that all the saddles are as far back as they can go?

Sometimes a saddle or two may be coil-bound (the spring behind the saddle is too long), but that's an easy fix- just clip a few turns off the end of the spring.

Can you post a picture of the bridge area?

They are not all as far back as they can go. I guess I need to turn the screwdriver some more!
 

Latest posts