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Stoner/Doom Bassists Thread, Part 90: Maxed Out

Is that echo shifter more than delay? It has a modulation switch, is it more of a chorus with that on?

Also do you guys put your non delay modulation before or after dirt? I tried both ways a couple times these last few days with my chorus. I was hoping I'd dig before dirt more as it would help a lot with setting the board up as stereo optional. Before was more like a thickener, where as after was a definite chorus effect.
 
Is that echo shifter more than delay? It has a modulation switch, is it more of a chorus with that on?

Also do you guys put your non delay modulation before or after dirt? I tried both ways a couple times these last few days with my chorus. I was hoping I'd dig before dirt more as it would help a lot with setting the board up as stereo optional. Before was more like a thickener, where as after was a definite chorus effect.

Modulation after dirt, always.
 
I didn't post about it this weekend, since I wasn't online that much, but I did end up picking up that '95 ATK on Saturday morning. I had to get there at 8:30 am to be able to check it out and it was an hour drive away in the rain, but I bought it for $240 and it sounds and plays killer. So I sold my Ray34CA and replaced it effectively for $160 less than I made on that. I'm digging the feel of the neck and the tone a lot too.

IMG_20150207_110534_zps8qmmbymu.jpg
 
I didn't post about it this weekend, since I wasn't online that much, but I did end up picking up that '95 ATK on Saturday morning. I had to get there at 8:30 am to be able to check it out and it was an hour drive away in the rain, but I bought it for $240 and it sounds and plays killer. So I sold my Ray34CA and replaced it effectively for $160 less than I made on that. I'm digging the feel of the neck and the tone a lot too.

IMG_20150207_110534_zps8qmmbymu.jpg

Nice ATK score!
 
I didn't post about it this weekend, since I wasn't online that much, but I did end up picking up that '95 ATK on Saturday morning. I had to get there at 8:30 am to be able to check it out and it was an hour drive away in the rain, but I bought it for $240 and it sounds and plays killer. So I sold my Ray34CA and replaced it effectively for $160 less than I made on that. I'm digging the feel of the neck and the tone a lot too.

IMG_20150207_110534_zps8qmmbymu.jpg

Is that MIJ? Gorgeous, she's a beaut Clark!!!
 
I didn't post about it this weekend, since I wasn't online that much, but I did end up picking up that '95 ATK on Saturday morning. I had to get there at 8:30 am to be able to check it out and it was an hour drive away in the rain, but I bought it for $240 and it sounds and plays killer. So I sold my Ray34CA and replaced it effectively for $160 less than I made on that. I'm digging the feel of the neck and the tone a lot too.

IMG_20150207_110534_zps8qmmbymu.jpg

I think one of those bridge saddle screws is out of whack. Don't worry about it, just send the bass to me, I'll take care it for you.
 
Wired up a full proper three amp PVYHenge last night, with the biggest pedal board Ive ever used!!! Im gonna be a tap dancer!!!...Phase Wizard controls it all. Vulcan straight in as always > 218. BF2 > Rat > Muff > Bass 300 > 810. Lucifuzz > DOD250 > Echo Shifter > Dunwich pre/800 Booster > 1820 + Folded 18.

Its 99.9% complete, just waiting on Janitors footswitch extension...

Flanger before Rat/Muff. I haven't tested my phaser before dirt, but will this week - it might keep it a bit fatter when it goes high.
 
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Is that echo shifter more than delay? It has a modulation switch, is it more of a chorus with that on?

Also do you guys put your non delay modulation before or after dirt? I tried both ways a couple times these last few days with my chorus. I was hoping I'd dig before dirt more as it would help a lot with setting the board up as stereo optional. Before was more like a thickener, where as after was a definite chorus effect.

Its delay and with high depth setting on the mod it can go into delay with some phasy/flangy/chorusyness to it

Flanger before Rat/Muff. I haven't tested my phaser before dirt, but will this week - it might keep it a bit fatter when it goes high.

Im actually going to move it to after the rat>muff combo, the effect got lost in the gain and compression well because this...
Modulation after dirt, always.
 
I didn't post about it this weekend, since I wasn't online that much, but I did end up picking up that '95 ATK on Saturday morning. I had to get there at 8:30 am to be able to check it out and it was an hour drive away in the rain, but I bought it for $240 and it sounds and plays killer. So I sold my Ray34CA and replaced it effectively for $160 less than I made on that. I'm digging the feel of the neck and the tone a lot too.

IMG_20150207_110534_zps8qmmbymu.jpg

That's a small box! Kudos for the seller!
 
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When people are talking about drums, and use words like

What exactly do they mean.

IMO
Resonance: The fullness of the sound, ie thuddy vs clear. Has a lot to do with tuning, IMO, to find the drums sweet spot.
Sustain: duh. This does blend into resonance and overtones a bit.
Overtones: Especially on snare drums, when you hit it it will have various ringing overtones to it that can either add or detract from the sound you are going for. Hence moongels, dampening rings, etc. Listen to solo'd Bonham tracks.
Attack: The initial transient attack, the click or snap of the head. Can blend into resonance, but some genres are all attack to cut through a mix, others are more resonant to fill out a sparse sound.

I found my old Drum Dial, work you out a deal on it if'n you want it. Made a hug difference to my old drummers sound.
 
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Nice ATK score!

Thanks, it definitely fills the Stingray gap...and kinda the Ric one too. I didn't really miss my Ric that much, but being able to get a similar tone to the one I did with my old one without the playability issues is cool.

Is that MIJ? Gorgeous, she's a beaut Clark!!!

Nope, it's a Korean Cort made one, I looked up the serial number. From the first year of production, but they moved them out of Japan reaaaaally quick. It's nice though, I dig it.

I think one of those bridge saddle screws is out of whack. Don't worry about it, just send the bass to me, I'll take care it for you.

You already spooked me, I burnt it and spread the ashes on holy ground.

That's a small box! Kudos for the seller!

That would be some efficient packaging.

That's just my box of music accessories junk. Strings, cables, picks, strap buttons and miscellaneous junk. I had it out when I sold the Ray, I threw in an old strap to the kid since he didn't have one. I need to dig some Schaller strap lock buttons out to put on this baby.
 
The small board with rat>muff and flanger is the new VEGA board aswell. With the addition of the Bass 300. I want to move away from using the Dunwich pre/800 Booster which requires a big board and 18v, also dont use the delay much in VEGA, so it saves a bit of space and hassle. That does mean im losing the DI portion which was nice but i can just go back to using a mic/not going through the PA if a sound guy tells us to turn down like we normally do.
 
so i'm getting my DOD 260 DI modded - so much room in the enclosure, all it is is a few wires, jacks and a transformer - i'm stealing Ron/Nick's idea of a soundman-proof doom DI with a low pass filter and an SVT ultra-low style boost (20db @ 40hz). i need to decide where the filter will cutoff. i'm running a "bass amp" and a "treble amp" already, the DI will be used on a third channel solely handling sub frequencies to go into a PA. would i be crazy cutting it down to only the very lowest of frequencies, say 40-140hz? or would it be better to have a bit of clean overlap with the frequencies my neck pickup is already handling?
 
It's a solid state head based on the transtube technology, basically a very loud bandit.

What's your bass amp, a 400rb? I'd play that pushed with dirt before buying that... Though my first amp was a transtube rage 158 pushed with a fabtone, and I didn't judge it. I played that until I stupidly tore it apart to paint it orange like those "orange colored amps" I'd seen people play on lol.



My friend used krylon, it was cheap, but gross. If he actually tried and followed directions I bet it would be "ok"

I'm not a car dude, but It would really depend on what your plan for the car is and how much of the car you plan to paint.



I bet if I traded for the vtm 60 I could trade again for a vtm 120... I'm sure someone regrets buying such a loud amp for their Judas Priest cover band and wants the lower wattage one.
I've got a 400RB-IV and a 700RB-II. So the 400RB makes a decent guitar amp, eh? Might have to give it a go tonight with my buddy's 7 string. At least I won't have to worry about the amp having enough heft on the low notes!
 
I've got a 400RB-IV and a 700RB-II. So the 400RB makes a decent guitar amp, eh? Might have to give it a go tonight with my buddy's 7 string. At least I won't have to worry about the amp having enough heft on the low notes!
And will this harm my 400-RB if I do this? I know you're not supposed to do bass into guitar rigs, but is vice versa okay? I just tried it for a second, and it sounds OK, but my buddy's guitar rigs definitely sound better for guitar (whoda thunk, right?). Anyway, even if it might work and be ok, I think I'd prefer an amp designed for the instrument. And more research tonight about the Peavey Supreme sounds promising. Might snatch it up and wait for a good cab to match.

Oh, and it's a total bass rig. GK 400RB-IV into GK Neo 410. Didn't use a guitar cab or anything if that matters...
 
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