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Stoner/Doom Bassists Thread, Part 90: Maxed Out
- Thread starter Korladis
- Start date
Nice! I'd love to be involved in a project like that, definitely keep us posted.
- Sep 3, 2003
- 3,312
- 756
- 41
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Fuzzrocious Pedals
Thanks for the dog clean up tips Gents! He is kind of issues problem dog and lives outside 24/7. He loathes being indoors, will destroy any crate and practically chewed through the door and wall of the last place my girlfriend was renting. So old Yeller can be the Virginia skunk ape if he so chooses to mutilate skunks, plus it will piss off my neighbor Ned Flanders lol.
My wife and I are constantly referring to the Skunk Ape.
Kind of S/D related-
Does anyone here have any experience building speaker cabinets, being that doomy stoner rock tends to utilize lots and lots of them? I've been wanting to clone my friend's Sunn 415 cabinet, but I don't know what kind of corner joints are acceptable, economical woods for test builds, ect. Any tips from someone who has experience with this?
Does anyone here have any experience building speaker cabinets, being that doomy stoner rock tends to utilize lots and lots of them? I've been wanting to clone my friend's Sunn 415 cabinet, but I don't know what kind of corner joints are acceptable, economical woods for test builds, ect. Any tips from someone who has experience with this?
save yourself the trouble of going down this road and just get a fearful.
- everyones reply (lol)
With modern building materials, glued but joints are actually stronger than the middle of the panel.
That said if you are going to build a 415, I would consider other designs. That sun angled baffle doesnt leave enough air space behind the drivers to be very effective. Would make more sense to buy one of those cabs, than spend the money trying to get good results building your own.
Thanks for the replies!
It just sounds so magical, but I imagine that it's in part the Sunn 15" drivers, which would be difficult to obtain. I would like to try something with an angled baffle, but I must admit that I've been interested in the Fearful cabs also. There are so many options, but whatever it is I'll likely be DIYing it. I guess all I know is that I want something massive with 15's, perhaps I'll try and find some affordable drivers and see what designs would suit them best?
It just sounds so magical, but I imagine that it's in part the Sunn 15" drivers, which would be difficult to obtain. I would like to try something with an angled baffle, but I must admit that I've been interested in the Fearful cabs also. There are so many options, but whatever it is I'll likely be DIYing it. I guess all I know is that I want something massive with 15's, perhaps I'll try and find some affordable drivers and see what designs would suit them best?
If I was building around "affordable" drivers it would be the Peavey BW 1505. A pair of those will get louder than an 810e in the right box.
I was just searching for some of these locally this past weekend, to polish some frets on a friend's bass that he's selling. Couldn't find any locally, I think I'm going to order a small 2 pack or something to try them out. I hate working with steel wool, the amount of mess/cleanup.
In my experience, a glued butt joint with a brace in the inside corner is usually fine. Just use some good waterproof wood glue, like Titebond 3, and clamp them properly (not too tight or you'll squeeze all the glue out). If you want something a bit more complex you can use a dado joint or get fancy and use fingerjoints or dovetail joints. That's probably overkill though, unless you're making fancy stain grade furniture. Most time see people building stuff online they screw all the joints together, which isn't necessary and can get in the way, if you want to round over the edge. You can always pop a couple small brads in the corners if you're worried about them holding together properly while the glue dries, but even that's not really necessary if you're planning out your clamping. You can just pop some pieces of wood inside the cab to keep it square while clamping if necessary. If you're just going to do a test build, by cheap plywood. Once you get to the actual building part, spring for some decent Baltic/Russian Birch. Using cheap plywood you get a lot of rough edges, tearouts and stuff, especially while doing things like cutting the baffle. It's not that hard to build a cab with some basic wood working skills, it's just the scale and combining a lot of smaller steps into the whole. Of course you learn things as you go that will save you time on the next try and different people have different tools/resources at their disposal.
If you're just replicating a cab, not that much to worry about design. Just measure twice (or thrice) and cut once. Make templates with cardboard or something first if you have to, draw out the plans to scale on graph paper or something, so you're not trying to visualize it in your head as you go and miss something.
I ordered mine off ebay, got here in a couple days: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251078142601?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Good tip on putting wood inside inside the cabinet to keep it square, I worry that it would end up like my woodshop projects in high school otherwise. I like the cardboard idea too, I have a bunch lying around anyways so that might give me a better idea of the scale I'm working with before I cut into any lumber and I could make a nifty template out of it!
I'll pour over designs and drivers some more, the Peavey BW 1505 that CL400 suggested look promising! I get too over my head in this sort of thing sometimes, but I need to keep myself from building the Dead's wall of sound
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Two new Red Fang tracks up for free download. I dig it: http://www.scionav.com/2014/05/06/red-fang-meadows-shadows-download/
I have some of this priced out for my upcoming builds. I've used Titebond in the past simply because we have a bunch of it in the shop, but those were all pretty small builds.
I've always had good luck with loctite products before, so I'll probably give that a go.
"The Shadows" was tasty
"The Meadows" kind of struck me as just another Red Fang song that I wanted to be over in hopes that the one after it would be better xD
Titebond relies on straight cuts for an airtight seal. PL premium not so much.
I never think about stuff like that. If you spent any time with my dad in our shop, you'd know why. If it's not within a thousandth of an inch to spec, it's off.
Absolutely and with good well-maintained tools and/or copious experience such accuracy is easily attainable.
The rest of the world is gonna measure once and cut three times.
It would be safe to say I'm a little bit detail oriented.
I'm enjoying some Nice Hooves with my lunch. I enjoy saying nice hooves. Hey babe, nice hooooooves.
