Stoner/Doom Bassists Thread, Part 90: Maxed Out

[mbelue]

It would be safe to say I'm a little bit detail oriented.

And that is to your credit. I like Titebond for most things myself. For any sort of stain or varnish PL premium sticks out very badly.

 

[Corey Y]

And that is to your credit. I like Titebond for most things myself. For any sort of stain or varnish PL premium sticks out very badly.

Most of the actual woodworking training I have assumes a stain grade end product. Even though almost nothing I'm ever making for myself requires that, it's a good standard to have. I'm also pragmatic though, I don't spend an inordinate amount of time getting something to look perfect that's never going to be seen, you have to know when to compromise. I'm also no stranger to using Bondo for fixing mistakes on things that aren't going to be stained. When I worked at a sign company where we did CNC and sandblasting on redwood and cedar a lot, showing them how to fix tiny letters that got messed up with some Bondo and a Dremel blew their minds. I don't know what the hell they were doing before that. Either throwing it away and trying from scratch or just giving customers crap product I guess.

 

[CL400Peavey]

Titebond relies on straight cuts for an airtight seal. PL premium not so much.

This is why it is better for amateur builds.

 

[RAMUSIC]

This is why it is better for amateur builds.

Hey, that's me!

That's good to know though, since while a cab would be covered in tolex, I need to build an enclosure for an older tube hifi amp and I think it would be better left natural. So I guess I'll pickup some PL and some titebond!

 

[The_Janitor]

What's the best glue for metal?

 

[Corey Y]

Apart from historical recreation, I don't know why people still bother with tolex at this point. It looks nice when it's new and done well, but what a pain in the butt. I have a couple cabs with Duratex and I decided I'm just using that for my upcoming builds. No issues with it as a matter of aesthetic taste, it's just a huge pet peeve for me as a practical concern over the past 10 years. I've had a lot of cabs in that time that I considered just stripped down, sanding and spray painting black, because the tolex on them looked so crappy and torn up. I'd rather use a paint roller than learn upholstery and if something gets beat up I can just touch it up instead of trying to glue down rolled up seams and whatnot.

Just a mini-rant for me, not a judgement on what everyone else does/likes. Vinyl upholstery just seems so impractical and outdated to me.

 

[mbelue]

Not a fan of tolex. Duratex +1000000.

What's the best glue for metal?

Two-part epoxy, commonly known as JBweld.

 

[RAMUSIC]

Good points Corey. I'll have to look into alternative protective coatings, since I imagine that my attempts at covering something in tolex would look disastrous. xD

 

[The_Janitor]

Not a fan of tolex. Duratex +1000000.

Two-part epoxy, commonly known as JBweld.

I love that poopie.

 

[mbelue]

I love that ****.

Yeah saved my bacon a few times when I did electrical. I broke stuff.

 

[The_Janitor]

Yeah me too, futzing around under the hood of the car in 0 degree temps, snapping off critical parts that were made of plastic. JB fixed it right up, saved me thousands of dollars.

 

[Squanch72]

JB Weld fixed a hole in the exhaust on my old Yamaha DR650. Pretty impressive as I thought it would blow out after driving it but it never did.

 

[Kaa]

What's the best glue for metal?

Whatever's in the bag I'm huffing.

 

[Auspex]

VEGA uploaded a few videos of recording this weekend...this is actually two songs, Machine and Time. Time is about about a dude making a time machine but it goes turribly wrong and it gets him stuck in limbo and he goes mental. Machine is the time machine starting up.



STONY AS FVCK!!!!!!!!!! this is great.

 

[Korladis]

Or, you could go with a Dumble.

I want someone to de-goop a Dumble and post the schematic for all to see.

What a ridiculous racket that company is.

New Elephant Day:

Link Removed

Looks like Tree Trunks.

Kind of S/D related-

Does anyone here have any experience building speaker cabinets, being that doomy stoner rock tends to utilize lots and lots of them? I've been wanting to clone my friend's Sunn 415 cabinet, but I don't know what kind of corner joints are acceptable, economical woods for test builds, ect. Any tips from someone who has experience with this?

Sunn was using mainly dado joints when they built my 2000S (which started life as a 1200S) cab. Glued and then hit with a nail gun.

For my copy, which I am going to finish, eventually, I don't have a nail gun, so I'm going to use glue and screws.

You could probably make it a lot lighter than the original with better bracing and thinner ply, but since I doubt you're concerned about weight, at least on my cab, they were using 3/4" ply for the sides, back, and baffle. The 4x15 is sealed, isn't it?

Thanks for the replies!

It just sounds so magical, but I imagine that it's in part the Sunn 15" drivers, which would be difficult to obtain. I would like to try something with an angled baffle, but I must admit that I've been interested in the Fearful cabs also. There are so many options, but whatever it is I'll likely be DIYing it. I guess all I know is that I want something massive with 15's, perhaps I'll try and find some affordable drivers and see what designs would suit them best?

I think the Sunn 15" drivers were usually rebranded drivers of some other make.

JohnK has a 2x15 that's similar to a Dually. I'm not sure if he's made the plans available. The Dually itself isn't available to the public, because Greenboy decided (sensibly) to make money on that design. The fEarful is still available for free, though, as far as I know.

In my experience, a glued butt joint with a brace in the inside corner is usually fine. Just use some good waterproof wood glue, like Titebond 3, and clamp them properly (not too tight or you'll squeeze all the glue out). If you want something a bit more complex you can use a dado joint or get fancy and use fingerjoints or dovetail joints. That's probably overkill though, unless you're making fancy stain grade furniture. Most time see people building stuff online they screw all the joints together, which isn't necessary and can get in the way, if you want to round over the edge. You can always pop a couple small brads in the corners if you're worried about them holding together properly while the glue dries, but even that's not really necessary if you're planning out your clamping. You can just pop some pieces of wood inside the cab to keep it square while clamping if necessary. If you're just going to do a test build, by cheap plywood. Once you get to the actual building part, spring for some decent Baltic/Russian Birch. Using cheap plywood you get a lot of rough edges, tearouts and stuff, especially while doing things like cutting the baffle. It's not that hard to build a cab with some basic wood working skills, it's just the scale and combining a lot of smaller steps into the whole. Of course you learn things as you go that will save you time on the next try and different people have different tools/resources at their disposal.

If you're just replicating a cab, not that much to worry about design. Just measure twice (or thrice) and cut once. Make templates with cardboard or something first if you have to, draw out the plans to scale on graph paper or something, so you're not trying to visualize it in your head as you go and miss something.

I didn't have access to the correct kind of clamp for my project, so I used tons of screws instead. Not really the best way to do it.

Super fancy joints probably won't be necessary, but the kind of dadoing Sunn used back in the day isn't especially difficult.

Apart from historical recreation, I don't know why people still bother with tolex at this point. It looks nice when it's new and done well, but what a pain in the butt. I have a couple cabs with Duratex and I decided I'm just using that for my upcoming builds. No issues with it as a matter of aesthetic taste, it's just a huge pet peeve for me as a practical concern over the past 10 years. I've had a lot of cabs in that time that I considered just stripped down, sanding and spray painting black, because the tolex on them looked so crappy and torn up. I'd rather use a paint roller than learn upholstery and if something gets beat up I can just touch it up instead of trying to glue down rolled up seams and whatnot.

Just a mini-rant for me, not a judgement on what everyone else does/likes. Vinyl upholstery just seems so impractical and outdated to me.

I like the aesthetic of tolex, even when it's all beat up.

That said, the tolex on my cab seems pretty durable, for tolex. There are no big tears after forty years.

 

[RAMUSIC]

Sunn was using mainly dado joints when they built my 2000S (which started life as a 1200S) cab. Glued and then hit with a nail gun.

For my copy, which I am going to finish, eventually, I don't have a nail gun, so I'm going to use glue and screws.

You could probably make it a lot lighter than the original with better bracing and thinner ply, but since I doubt you're concerned about weight, at least on my cab, they were using 3/4" ply for the sides, back, and baffle. The 4x15 is sealed, isn't it?

I think the Sunn 15" drivers were usually rebranded drivers of some other make.

JohnK has a 2x15 that's similar to a Dually. I'm not sure if he's made the plans available. The Dually itself isn't available to the public, because Greenboy decided (sensibly) to make money on that design. The fEarful is still available for free, though, as far as I know.

The 415 does have a port at the bottom on front. Could probably look into making a sealed version depending on the speaker drivers being used. Thanks for the info, I'll see if there's any documentation on the JohnK build and see if dado joints are something I could do, haha.

 

[CL400Peavey]

The 415 does have a port at the bottom on front. Could probably look into making a sealed version depending on the speaker drivers being used. Thanks for the info, I'll see if there's any documentation on the JohnK build and see if dado joints are something I could do, haha.

It is a good starting point. It is a little shy in the porting for my tastes. If you are serious about the BW1505 we should talk.

 

[Korladis]

The 415 does have a port at the bottom on front. Could probably look into making a sealed version depending on the speaker drivers being used. Thanks for the info, I'll see if there's any documentation on the JohnK build and see if dado joints are something I could do, haha.

You could always go for a shallower angle on the front baffles and increase internal volume that way.

With dado joints, you just need to be able to route a straight line. Not complicated.

 

[CL400Peavey]

I want someone to de-goop a Dumble and post the schematic for all to see.

Easier to just x-ray it. Also Fuchs has a dumble clone. (I have heard one extensively. Sounds like a fender.)

 

[mbelue]

Easier to just x-ray it. Also Fuchs has a dumble clone. (I have heard one extensively. Sounds like a fender.)

Invalid Link Removedmini-marshmallow-dumble#intro
Kit for "Dumble"-clone preamp.