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Stoner/Doom Bassists Thread, Part 90: Maxed Out

The Blue voodoo cab is up and running.

The blue voodoo head turns on, tubes light up, no fuses blow. The sound is very low volume and super nasty distorted. Any ideas?

The pig nose turns on and tubes light up and no sound comes through, but a steady low volume hum that is not louder when more gain is added. Any ideas?

No smells or visible damage in the chassis inside or out.

Have you tried swapping in known-good tubes one at a time and testing? Check Bias?

That's usually where I start in such a case, and then move to probing with the O-scope and sig generator, stage by stage until you find the culprit.
 
Have you tried swapping in known-good tubes one at a time and testing? Check Bias?

That's usually where I start in such a case, and then move to probing with the O-scope and sig generator, stage by stage until you find the culprit.

I brought both heads and cab to my dads. We got an o scope, and tube tester, meter. I don't think we have a signal generator or high voltage probe, so he wasn't sure how to bias without a probe or what all we should have to do it well.

I got a pair of new jj 6l6's I brought down and we have a selected group of 4 12ax7/ecc83s that work. I'll probably buy more for next time I visit and we continue figuring it out.
 
Since you're a fellow doomer, I'll share my secret Doomy RAT mods: (well, they're nothing THAT special, but every customer has been very happy)

LM308 (of course!)
C1 - .047uF
C4 - Silver-Mica 100pf. or at least an NP0 ceramic.
C7 - 5.6uF FILM (not crappy polarized EL cap) This will be a huge cap, but it's worth it imho. Panasonic makes some nice small polypropylene units.
D1 +D2 - Lift the diode who's cathode is going to ground, and place a 1N34A germanium diode between it's cathode and ground. Provides a bit more headroom/volume, and more complex clipping.
C9 - .047uF
C10 - Film (ideally polypropylene) 1uF (knee is already ~1Hz here, so no need to fatten it up)
Reutz Mod + Switch if preferred.

With these mods I've only gotten lots of "Holy F*ck! This thing is awesome!" from customers. Zach from Bereft uses my modded RAT (as well as my old HEAVILY modded LANEY AOR Pro Tube).

Stock RAT schem for reference:
Link Removed

This is very helpful, thanks! So the cap value increases help with bass response, yes? Obviously the higher quality components will improve the sound as well. I was just going to with the stock standard parts for this build, but I think the better low-end frequency response and high-quality components will allow me to charge even more money for this thing so I'll probably go ahead with your suggestions.

I officially owe you a beer. We'll have to make that happen some time soon.
 
DAMMIT! My trusty fender 300 pro shut down at practice last night!! just blew the fuse and shut off.
WTH??? Never had an issue ever and the week before a show it goes boobies up.

so... having NEVER had a problem with a tube amp before, whats a possible cause of a blown fuse?
bad news is my local tech is out of commission for MONTHS because of a hand surgery with complications.. argh.
 
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DAMMIT! My trusty fender 300 pro shut down at practice last night!! just blew the fuse and shut off.
WTH??? Never had an issue ever and the week before a show it goes boobies up.

so... having NEVER had a problem with a tube amp before, whats a possible cause of a blown fuse?
bad news is my local tech is out of commission for MONTHS because of a hand surgery with complications.. argh.

if it shut down then it's the main fuse. likely a power surge. if it were a tube then the secondary fuses would blow and that pair of tubes would not be used but the other pairs would continue to work and so would the amp, just a little less power.

replace the main fuse and fire it up. just use the same spec fuse. easy to replace.
 
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I brought both heads and cab to my dads. We got an o scope, and tube tester, meter. I don't think we have a signal generator or high voltage probe, so he wasn't sure how to bias without a probe or what all we should have to do it well.
I got a pair of new jj 6l6's I brought down and we have a selected group of 4 12ax7/ecc83s that work. I'll probably buy more for next time I visit and we continue figuring it out.

Your o-scope probe likely can handle the tube amp. For a signal generator, there's an app you can get that will throw a sine wave. Otherwise, you can get cheap ones on ebay or the like. Some simple DIY circuits too. Pretty useful to have around, if you plan on digging around amp guts often.

I bought a socket-type bias probe kit, but you can do without, just a bit more of a chore. Got any 1 ohm resistors?

I'm afraid I haven't kept up with the thread as of late, are there any details/backstory as to how you came upon the amp, or did it "die" on you or? Often knowing how it died helps diagnose, as I'm sure you know.

This is very helpful, thanks! So the cap value increases help with bass response, yes? Obviously the higher quality components will improve the sound as well. I was just going to with the stock standard parts for this build, but I think the better low-end frequency response and high-quality components will allow me to charge even more money for this thing so I'll probably go ahead with your suggestions.

I officially owe you a beer. We'll have to make that happen some time soon.

Cool! You got it, beefs things up a bit to compensate for the typical lower tunings our genre typically uses. Additionally, the increased low freq energy tends to hammer following gain stages harder and create more distortion. And yeah, the cap flavor makes a big difference IMO. Going from one "flavor" of film (polyester vs polypropylene for example) is nearly unnoticeable to most people, but going from a polarized electrolytic to any sort of film cap is much more noticeable for me. I mean, it's a polarized cap, of course it's going to be quite non-linear and asymetrical. They used EL caps for large values just for monetary reasons. A 5.6uF cap would be $.75-$1.50, where a cheap EL cap would be cents.

Because of that, I'd opt to leave the stock .022's before I'd leave the EL caps in, if you're cutting costs for better profit.

Will definitely take you up on the beer! I'm sure once we meet IRL, we'll be like "Oh, yeah, THAT guy, I've seen him around" Ha!

if it shut down then it's the main fuse. likely a power surge. if it were a tube then the secondary fuses would blow and that pair of tubes would not be used but the other pairs would continue to work and so would the amp, just a little less power.

replace the main fuse and fire it up. just use the same spec fuse. easy to replace.

Agree, one caveat could be in the heaters shorted somehow, or a tube had an internal heater short, or possibly a tranny shorted. Heaters generally run on the mains fuse, while B+ on it's own fuse. Unlikely though.
 
Most of the gear has been moved from the practice space, and so far no drama. Everyone said they saw it coming, and they all agreed I did EVERYTHING I could do to make us successful. No bad blood, no bad words, friendships intact. I'd call it a win, or at least a draw.

Now, just the drummer has to get his stuff and we'll square away the PA system. Me and the good guitarist are gonna buy out everyone's shares since we plan on continuing and we all pitched in to get it. Unfortunately, the drummer's the one guy we were worried about taking this badly. Wish me luck next week when he comes!
 
Your o-scope probe likely can handle the tube amp. For a signal generator, there's an app you can get that will throw a sine wave. Otherwise, you can get cheap ones on ebay or the like. Some simple DIY circuits too. Pretty useful to have around, if you plan on digging around amp guts often.

I bought a socket-type bias probe kit, but you can do without, just a bit more of a chore. Got any 1 ohm resistors?

I'm afraid I haven't kept up with the thread as of late, are there any details/backstory as to how you came upon the amp, or did it "die" on you or? Often knowing how it died helps diagnose, as I'm sure you know.



Cool! You got it, beefs things up a bit to compensate for the typical lower tunings our genre typically uses. Additionally, the increased low freq energy tends to hammer following gain stages harder and create more distortion. And yeah, the cap flavor makes a big difference IMO. Going from one "flavor" of film (polyester vs polypropylene for example) is nearly unnoticeable to most people, but going from a polarized electrolytic to any sort of film cap is much more noticeable for me. I mean, it's a polarized cap, of course it's going to be quite non-linear and asymetrical. They used EL caps for large values just for monetary reasons. A 5.6uF cap would be $.75-$1.50, where a cheap EL cap would be cents.

Because of that, I'd opt to leave the stock .022's before I'd leave the EL caps in, if you're cutting costs for better profit.

Will definitely take you up on the beer! I'm sure once we meet IRL, we'll be like "Oh, yeah, THAT guy, I've seen him around" Ha!



Agree, one caveat could be in the heaters shorted somehow, or a tube had an internal heater short, or possibly a tranny shorted. Heaters generally run on the mains fuse, while B+ on it's own fuse. Unlikely though.

Yeah, i was just talking about seeing the same people around town at all the shows.

Did you go to Melvins or Torche?
 
@Satyrnine

I tend to just buy all the cheap cool gear on Craigslist. I know every so often I won't get a working piece but it's nature of the situation. So I paid $60 for the voodoo and the cab, and the pignose I traded a bad monkey for it. So no clue why they don't work, previous owner/s error would typically be the place I put blame.

In other news, my friend came last night with 8 boxes of 70's and earlier recording gear. reel to reel, like a hundred tapes, all the splicing cutting and editing/maintenance gear. About 8 vintage Mics, from OG shure green bullet to a realistic pzm room mic. Old tube amps, preamps, hundred cables, patch cables etc. mixing gear, cassette recording gear too and much more I can't think of as I onky got 3 hours sleep.
 
I was going to say tear his kit down and put it next to the front door. But then there would be the inevitable you damaged my stuff or lost parts... Best to leave the crime scene the way he left it so there are no come backs after.
Precisely why I haven't touched it. Everyone's already "out to get him" and my leaving the band and what appears to be its subsequent dissolution may have already put me on that list. Don't need to do anything else to guarantee a spot there.