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String through body or bridge?
- Thread starter adivin
- Start date
Take a look at the Mikro Owners Club thread here sometime. Yes, it is perfectly possible to pull the screws out, and the bridge off. More than one member there has done just that. No, they don't "Fly off"; the strings aren't stretched like rubber bands - which is what that would require. But, given a very soft wood for the body (and basswood certainly qualifies), and screws that have been taken out and replaced many times? Yes, it is possible; and, more than once to folks with basswood basses... Which is why I never mess with the screws on my basswood instruments, if I can help it. If the body wood is harder - like ash, maple, or something - and you never/seldom remove/replace the screws? No, pulling them out is extremely unlikely.
One could always use long machine screws and bolt the bridge through the body if they were concerned about it coming loose in soft wood. Put counterbores or threaded inserts in the back to keep it all flush.
For simplicity sake I'd just have them attached at the bridge. Less sharp bends on the string. And less confusion for taper wound strings.
For simplicity sake I'd just have them attached at the bridge. Less sharp bends on the string. And less confusion for taper wound strings.
In my experience, there's no appreciable difference in top-load or through-the-body. The manufacturers are quick to jump on this to make you think you MUST have 'this year's model', and therefore sell more instruments, plus then you get to buy longer strings, or pay more for strings, as pointed out above, that are made to go through the body and over that 90 degree bend.
Nope.
Nope.
Me either. I have literally strung a Fender bass every other string top loaded and through body and couldn't tell even the slightest difference. These days I just string through the bridge.
In the real world, no one has ever been able to detect any difference
[QUOTEAgreed ="Badwater, post: 19716810, member: 302376"]I guess it all depends on the type of string through. On the Yamaha BB424x series, the the string through is at a 45 degree angle, and the ferrules are counter sunk deep into the body so regular 34" long scales will fit. I've used Chromes the same set on and off 3x and they held up well without breaking or problems with dead strings.[/QUOTE] Agreed the Yamaha's have nailed it on the string through issue. I will be using it on my next build.
Take a look at the Mikro Owners Club thread here sometime. Yes, it is perfectly possible to pull the screws out, and the bridge off. More than one member there has done just that. No, they don't "Fly off"; the strings aren't stretched like rubber bands - which is what that would require. But, given a very soft wood for the body (and basswood certainly qualifies), and screws that have been taken out and replaced many times? Yes, it is possible; and, more than once to folks with basswood basses... Which is why I never mess with the screws on my basswood instruments, if I can help it. If the body wood is harder - like ash, maple, or something - and you never/seldom remove/replace the screws? No, pulling them out is extremely unlikely.
If historically problematic, here's a trick which may work (stolen from @Turnaround). This should be done as a prophylactic measure / preemptive strike:
Remove the screws & bridge. Apply super-thin CA to each screw hole with a whip-tip. As I understand it, the CA wicks into the wood and hardens the critical contact areas. Re-assemble and you're good to go.
Riis
Yeah, or you could drill out the holes; glue in a hardwood plug; and go from there. Which some people do... The CA glue trick's good, but it has one drawback; it's one extra time you remove and replace the screws. Like I said, I have an easier solution; I just leave the screws alone. And satisfy my urge to tinker on something, with a bass that doesn't have a basswood body...
Turnaround
Commercial User
I tried to use this as a prophylactic measure, but I was met with some resistance. I refrained. She's happy. All is good.
Turning 60 in a few months...lesson learned: If you glue it, it won't fall out.
Riis
I've been thinking about it too. I've got a Fender Mustang PJ Bass, which I got on a trade-in last summer from a 2014 Fender AS Precision Bass. (Yeah, I know, it sounds insane, but the PJ works better for me.) The American Standard does have the option to string through the body, and that's the only way I ever strung it. My thoughts are, if it works for a Precision, why not for a Mustang PJ? I seem to recall some Fender Mustang Basses offered at times with the string-through capability. Anyone else shed some light on this? I will look back through at the original postings several years ago.
Regards!
Once the string touches the saddle it's all over. The few inches of string after the saddle thru the body is not really doing any vibration that matters. In other words a marketing gimmick. It is rare to see any high end builders use string thru if any at all.
Several years ago when I was looking for my first "good" bass, it came down to two Fender Precisions, one MIM and the other an American Standard with custom shop pickups. Besides heavier and better hardware on the American model, it also gave me the string-through option; and that was one of the factors that led me to buy the American model.
It has to make some difference in the vibration transfers, but I'm not sure that it is enough to be consciously detectable by the human ear. However, it very well may add something to the overtones. The only way to know for sure would be to test both basses with an oscilloscope. Any true differences ought to show up.
I think it's probably more a matter of personal preference, but I do like the concept of string-through. I came to find out that the Fender Mustang PJ Bass fits my hands a whole lot better. Unfortunately that option wasn't available in 2018, so I'm thinking about possibly drilling my bass, installing ferrules in the back and try it out that way. Many very fine basses don't have string through, so I couldn't say it's an absolute must. I don't remember ever seeing any string-through Rickenbackers, and they are much sought after.
Never heard or felt any pros for string through. I prefer quick release bridges and they're the polar opposite of that. As far as removing the bridge multiple times and screw hole wear, that's not exactly a norm. The first time I saw someone mention the "safety" aspect of string though I lol'd.
Then again I've seen folks lose ferrules... how the heck does that happen?
Then again I've seen folks lose ferrules... how the heck does that happen?
Never heard or felt any pros for string through. I prefer quick release bridges and they're the polar opposite of that. As far as removing the bridge multiple times and screw hole wear, that's not exactly a norm. The first time I saw someone mention the "safety" aspect of string though I lol'd.
Then again I've seen folks lose ferrules... how the heck does that happen?
The hole in the body for the ferrule might be too big. I had an AM Standard Precision for a while and strung it through the bridge. The ferrules in the backside would fall out after a while. I wound up using gel super glue to hold them in.
Even with a hole too big it can't come off without removing the string. I'm talking about people who string through the body and lose them.
