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Super 300 Owners Society

Thanks
I'm just going to step right up and say it:
Two freaking months and not one clean amp video to demonstrate what the box can make an amp or DI sound like? Not even from the manufacturer?
That usually spells freak a$$ noise maker box to me, but I do trust many of these posts so I'll chalk it up to unusual marketing. And I don't want distortion. Just a way to get the tone of my SVT-CL head through a clean amp and ported cabinet (without an Ampeg tube rack pre).

Hi Jim,

I do have a video of the previous through hole version up from a few years ago. It's the same pedal, but with though hole parts instead of SMD and a full size XLR jack instead of a 1/4" TRS jack for the balanced output, hence the larger enclosure. The newer version is also more quiet than the older big box version.



I've been so busy building that I haven't had the time to make a new video. Plus I'm a guitarist who has a bass - i know i wouldn't be able to do a proper demo.

Hondo has had one since February to do a video but he's been busy also. He said that his Super 300 vid should be coming up in the next few weeks.
 
I have seen this one.
There are 10 seconds of no effect and then the next 7:36 with effect.
I was looking for a much cleaner amp tone without the box but thanks for this suggestion.
 
I have seen this one.
There are 10 seconds of no effect and then the next 7:36 with effect.
I was looking for a much cleaner amp tone without the box but thanks for this suggestion.

Done in a few mins, straight DI - P bass, rounds with a pick.


1. 0:00-0:14 Dry bass DI
2. 0:15-0:28 Super 300 set flat (everything at noon other than vol & gain) - gain at 9 o'clock (this is as high as it'll go without starting to OD)
3. 0:29-0:42 Set as above + bright switch
4. 0:43-0:58 Set flat + Ultra High
5. 0:59-1:13 Set Flat + Ultra Low (doesn't sound like ultra low but that's what it is)
6. 1:14-1:27 Set Flat with Ultra Low & Ultra High
7. 1:28-1:41 As above plus bright
8. 1:42-1:56 Gain at Noon
9. 1:58-2:12 Gain at noon + bright
10. 2:13-2:28 How I set it - Treble & Mid boost, bass cut (forgot to turn the gain down a little so more overdriven than it should have been)
11. 2:29 -2:45 As above plus the bright switch (I think I dropped the gain down to 9 o'clock for this one)
 
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doesn't sound like ultra low but that's what it is

I think we've established that the Ultra Lo and Ultra Hi switches work opposite each other regarding on vs off. With Ultra Lo, toggle back and forth and use your ears. Whichever position gives more midrange indicates that Ultra Lo is off. :)
 
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I think we've established that the Ultra Lo and Ultra Hi switches work opposite each other regarding on vs off. With Ultra Lo, toggle back and forth and use your ears. Whichever position gives more midrange indicates that Ultra Lo is off. :)

Yeah I saw the discussion and don’t really agree, when I flip the switch up you can hear there is noticeable boost, even though it doesn't sound much like an 'ultra lo' boost. To me it doesn't make sense that turning off an 'ultra lo' switch would boost the gain, the opposite seems more likely.
As I said a few pages back, with that switch in the 'up' position I cannot get a clean sound from the pedal so I'm convinced that down is off.
 
Yeah I saw the discussion and don’t really agree, when I flip the switch up you can hear there is noticeable boost, even though it doesn't sound much like an 'ultra lo' boost. To me it doesn't make sense that turning off an 'ultra lo' switch would boost the gain, the opposite seems more likely.
As I said a few pages back, with that switch in the 'up' position I cannot get a clean sound from the pedal so I'm convinced that down is off.
I seem to recall that on the original amp, the concept of "Ultra Low" is really a big mid reduction, giving the impression of hearing more low end because the midrange had been scooped out. It's not a boost, it's a cut.
 
I seem to recall that on the original amp, the concept of "Ultra Low" is really a big mid reduction, giving the impression of hearing more low end because the midrange had been scooped out. It's not a boost, it's a cut.

Exactly: the Ampeg Ultra Lo is mid cut. Don't know how official this is, but I've read that it's a significant cut at 500Hz, along with some boost to lows and highs. Ultra Lo can work particularly well with mid-forward basses such as the P-bass, and mid-forward speaker cabs like the classic SVT 8x10.
 
Exactly: the Ampeg Ultra Lo is mid cut. Don't know how official this is, but I've read that it's a significant cut at 500Hz, along with some boost to lows and highs. Ultra Lo can work particularly well with mid-forward basses such as the P-bass, and mid-forward speaker cabs like the classic SVT 8x10.
the manual for my old V4B said this about the Ultra Low: enhances 40hz by 2db, and cuts 500hz by 11db

Ultra High says this: increases 8khz by 7db
 
Is anyone else seeing this:

My Cioks cables don't play well with the S300's power jack. I'm getting a very intermittent connection. Being Cioks, they have an RCA on one end, so I can't substitute it with another cable. Aargh.
 
Is anyone else seeing this:

My Cioks cables don't play well with the S300's power jack. I'm getting a very intermittent connection. Being Cioks, they have an RCA on one end, so I can't substitute it with another cable. Aargh.

I power the Super 300 with a DC7, and I haven't had any problems with the cables they include. The jack on my S300 is pretty tight, so I do find that I have to push the power cable in fairly hard to get it to sit properly, but once it's in there's no issue whatsoever.
 
I power the Super 300 with a DC7, and I haven't had any problems with the cables they include. The jack on my S300 is pretty tight, so I do find that I have to push the power cable in fairly hard to get it to sit properly, but once it's in there's no issue whatsoever.
Weird... I have to push the cable to the left of the jack to get it to engage. I popped in a Voodoo Labs cable from the Noble and it makes a solid connection. Maybe I'll try another, unused Cioks one.
 
I can see what the problem is: the inner part of the barrel isn't tight enough on the Cioks cables, and so any play disengages the pin for this particular specimen of jack. The other ones I have (Voodoo Labs, Dunlop) have a smaller aperture and are more reliable, in my case. I can power it off Noble, but it's not isolated and not ideal. @Sensei Tim, what do you reckon?
 
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I can see what the problem is: the inner part of the barrel isn't tight enough on the Cioks cables, and so any play disengages the pin for this particular specimen of jack. The other ones I have (Voodoo Labs, Dunlop) have a smaller aperture and are more reliable, in my case. I can power it off Noble, but it's not isolated and not ideal. @Sensei Tim, what do you reckon?

That's odd. I use a dunlop DC brick both with the provided cables and 3rd party power cables as well as a Boss PSA supply when i test the pedals. It's definitely possible that there are slight differences in the tolerances from manufacturer to manufacturer when it comes to the power jacks.

This is the first time I've heard of people saying that they have issues with Cioks cables.
 
That's odd. I use a dunlop DC brick both with the provided cables and 3rd party power cables as well as a Boss PSA supply when i test the pedals. It's definitely possible that there are slight differences in the tolerances from manufacturer to manufacturer when it comes to the power jacks.

This is the first time I've heard of people saying that they have issues with Cioks cables.
Yeah, and it's certainly the only time I've ever had an issue with them.
 
I guess if you really want, Tim can make you a Super 420!
178766838_2574539786003527_7080441504000435901_n.jpg
 

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