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Supernova Bass project : Ovular content

I should have the Supernova Mk II back from Marty on Fri or Sat, sans decal. Something about the water-bourn finishing process being not compatible with the DIY decal. As much as Warwick boasts their environmentally friendly finishing, I'm sure they have nothing on finishers here in CA. I'll resolve that detail one way or the other. Pics will follow once it's here.
Here's a pic of a HS decal that I had sprayed with water based acrylic
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. Notice some degradation of the lettering that must have run a bit.
 
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Here's a pic of a HS decal that I had sprayed with water based acrylicView attachment 518486 . Notice some degradation of the lettering that must have run a bit.

Having a reliable competent decal maker has been a never ending search for me. As in; had one guy who did good work but was a total flake (disappeared in the end), another who ignored my specific requests sending some generic version of what I needed, a "highly respected" and expensive biz who's product was sub-standard at best. One company did really pro work - but only Fender/Gibson decals. ~ The DIY stuff can work, but seems to be iffy at best. Pro's like Marty and Pat can't afford to baby a decal to make it work. It works or it's 86'd and I totally get it.
 
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Having a reliable competent decal maker has been a never ending search for me. As in; had one guy who did good work but was a total flake (disappeared in the end), another who ignored my specific requests sending some generic version of what I needed, a "highly respected" and expensive biz who's product was sub-standard at best. One company did really pro work - but only Fender/Gibson decals. ~ The DIY stuff can work, but seems to be iffy at best. Pro's like Marty and Pat can't afford to baby a decal to make it work. It works or it's 86'd and I totally get it.

I make my own with ink jet decal paper. I print my logo in reverse, white with a black outline, and fill the out line in with a silver or gold paint pen. Then install them face down. It works well for me, but If there were a source, I would have them professionally printed as the paint pen tends to make for a bit of a lumpy decal, which sometimes takes a few extra coats of clear to bury it.

I would still have to print my own serial number decals, but those are always simple black decals so no big deal.
 
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Yah, I do have a guy (who did this Gildaxe decal, which is nice) but no metallic gold. The dusty gold-like brown he did is pretty good though - it looks better than I thought it would. Should have had him do the Supernova decal as a backup ~

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Yeah, I have never been happy with the results I have seen for decals. So I have just plain avoided them.

What I do need to try, is etching a design directly into a headstock. Now we have a laser cutter big enough to put a bass neck into.

Post pics if you ever get one (hs face) laser cut. Potential there -
 
Yah, I do have a guy (who did this Gildaxe decal, which is nice) but no metallic gold. The dusty gold-like brown he did is pretty good though - it looks better than I thought it would. Should have had him do the Supernova decal as a backup ~

IMG_7258_zps48fc1329.jpg


That's not bad looking at all, but I would rather have the actual gold ink instead of the brown. You would think it wouldn't be that hard to find a supplier for something like that.
 
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Got the Supernova back from Marty today. Excellent work (as he is known for) and some interesting details to photograph when the sun comes up. (although it's been pretty rainy of late!) Life is a process and each day is a learning experience - another step forward with insights for tomorrow.
 
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So here's some pre-assemble shots. Gives you a good idea of how much light effects a gilded surface, (flash at night and day-light) The clear coat really brings out the detail of gilding.

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The lower horn joint regardless of my efforts to level it is apparent, mostly due to the gold leafing which accentuates any surface detail. Not terrible at all - this is a prototype. The finish is leveled perfectly - it's under the clear-coat. The pg covers most of the front, the side seam/line is on the bottom side, and the line on the back actually has visual reference in the sheets of leafing do it's not entirely out of place. Will get it together as soon as I rout the pg.

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Got it together but ran out of energy and will wait until tomorrow to connect the wiring. (long week) Flash shot so hard to get the chrome thing as it just goes dark. Better daylight shots tomorrow. Best bass for metal?

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This one (no flash) is better.

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That's a gorgeously hard guitar to photograph.

Thanks, that's very much the case. The flash pic is actually very unflattering but daylight, low light and even better, stage lighting really creates some magic. The SuperB 5'r will be gilded also.
 
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Thanks, that's very much the case. The flash pic is actually very unflattering but daylight, low light and even better, stage lighting really creates some magic. The SuperB 5'r will be gilded also.

Hey JIO

Outstanding outstanding outstanding. It honestly looks like a completely different bass from photo to photo. Very WOW - a space age marvel and a perfect combo of retro and modern. Headstock/decal looks great too!

Anxious to get your take on the Delano's when you get them wired up and barking. Nice job!
 
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Hey JIO

Outstanding outstanding outstanding. It honestly looks like a completely different bass from photo to photo. Very WOW - a space age marvel and a perfect combo of retro and modern. Headstock/decal looks great too!

Anxious to get your take on the Delano's when you get them wired up and barking. Nice job!

The Delano's are huge sounding - very crisp and articulate but not especially 'modern'… hard to describe, but just big sounding. The Audere pre also 'powers' that impression. I played it for a while before I re-did it but have yet to play it in a jam session. (my testing lab) I have an improv gig w/a sextet on Wednesday at a local music-focused tavern that's 'happening' these days so I may bring it to see how it performs in a live setting.