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SWR Fan Club

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so i have a question for you all.
back on january 31, my band had a gig. over christmas i acquired my SWR rig (bass 750, goliath jr III, and Eden 4x10)
i plugged my rig up and had it set up. when i turned it on i got that distorted fart noise like my battery in my bass died. so i replaced the battery. then when i turned the amp back on both of the fuses blew (the line/ac fuse and the speaker fuse). i replaced the speaker fuse with the 10amp fast blow fuse. i had to order the 10A slow blow fuse for the line fuse. when i replaced that fuse, it blew upon turning on the amp, leaving the speaker fuse in tact. i would just like to know what the possible problem is. i have already ruled out a faulty AC cable, because i tried the SWR AC plug on my other amp and it worked fine.

any help is wanted.

thanks!

You definitely want to take this to a real technician. Things that cause power supply fuses to fail, such as short circuits in the power supply, can sometimes be dangerous.
 
Short circuit - probably worth googling for a fuller definition but basically an electrical fault that causes a too-large amount of current to flow, creating a risk of heat and further damage. For example, a loose power wire touching the chassis of an amp would be dangerous in 2 ways, the amp could electrocute a person who touches it, and the rush of mains power being earthed could create sufficient heat to create either a fire or more damage to the gear. These are worst-case pictures, mind you.

Fuses are there simply to protect against that rush of current. Think about the massive amount of power a 750 puts out and how all of that goes through the fuse. Enough to hurt your ears and shake your house. If the fuses are blowing then more power than that is trying to go through the fuse, and the fuse is protecting the owner from the amp turning into a nasty little heater. It's technician time!
 
Is it better to run the eq's in 1+2 or set 1 and 2 seperately and switch betwenn them with the foot pedal?? Is it better to run my two 8 OHM Golaith IV 4x10 cabs in stereo mode or piggy back them and run in bridged/mono mode?? Which is better to have set at the higher level - Gain or the main volume knob?? What posistion is it best to set the limiter knob?? I'm a new SM900 owner and I'm still learning how to use it. I'd appreciate any advice that you could give me. Also , I'm still messing around with the eqs , but I think I like them all set around the 12:00 posistion (both knobs inner and outer) any advice?? Thanks , Pedulla-Player
 
I only use set 1 of the EQ's and don't touch set 2 or the footswitch. Only use 1+2 if you have some very complex EQ needs, since 3 bands of mid is tricky enough already. Also don't forget, the gain of each band is halved in 1+2 mode. If you need 2 kinds of EQ on tap (say you want a 'slap' setting or a boost for a solo) then use set 2 on the switch.

You should run in stereo mode when using two 8 ohm cabs. Sadly, the bridge mode doesn't work so well into a 4 ohm total load, which can lead to heat building up and damaging your amp. If you only take 1 cab to a gig, use the bridge mode for a few extra watts.

Try and track down the old manual for the SM900 which has a very thorough primer on how to set the gain structure, as well as a good tutorial on using that EQ. Frankly, it's excellent. I like the EQ pretty flat too, like you, but adjust to compensate for the room. The low mid can do a much more precise job than the Bass knob and dialling 800 Hz to 1kHz up or down can make my bass line either more polite-sounding or more cutting, as needed.

Most people run the gain as hot as they can without peaking (like play HARD and turn gain up and up til the red light flashes, then down a tiny bit) and use the master volume to control the amount of volume in the room.

I never use the limiter much, unless I'm playing so loud that I'm worried about sending a distorted signal to the speakers at which point where I creep a little bit in. But generally it's off.
 
Short circuit - probably worth googling for a fuller definition but basically an electrical fault that causes a too-large amount of current to flow, creating a risk of heat and further damage. For example, a loose power wire touching the chassis of an amp would be dangerous in 2 ways, the amp could electrocute a person who touches it, and the rush of mains power being earthed could create sufficient heat to create either a fire or more damage to the gear. These are worst-case pictures, mind you.

Fuses are there simply to protect against that rush of current. Think about the massive amount of power a 750 puts out and how all of that goes through the fuse. Enough to hurt your ears and shake your house. If the fuses are blowing then more power than that is trying to go through the fuse, and the fuse is protecting the owner from the amp turning into a nasty little heater. It's technician time!


okay so today i took it to my friend who is an electrician. he took it all apart and isolated the preamp and the power amp. we found that on the power amp one of the transistors had a short in it. so he said that i should replace that transistor and see if that helps, if it doesnt then we are just one step closer to ruling out the faults.
 
I only use set 1 of the EQ's and don't touch set 2 or the footswitch. Only use 1+2 if you have some very complex EQ needs, since 3 bands of mid is tricky enough already. Also don't forget, the gain of each band is halved in 1+2 mode. If you need 2 kinds of EQ on tap (say you want a 'slap' setting or a boost for a solo) then use set 2 on the switch.

You should run in stereo mode when using two 8 ohm cabs. Sadly, the bridge mode doesn't work so well into a 4 ohm total load, which can lead to heat building up and damaging your amp. If you only take 1 cab to a gig, use the bridge mode for a few extra watts.

Try and track down the old manual for the SM900 which has a very thorough primer on how to set the gain structure, as well as a good tutorial on using that EQ. Frankly, it's excellent. I like the EQ pretty flat too, like you, but adjust to compensate for the room. The low mid can do a much more precise job than the Bass knob and dialling 800 Hz to 1kHz up or down can make my bass line either more polite-sounding or more cutting, as needed.

Most people run the gain as hot as they can without peaking (like play HARD and turn gain up and up til the red light flashes, then down a tiny bit) and use the master volume to control the amount of volume in the room.

I never use the limiter much, unless I'm playing so loud that I'm worried about sending a distorted signal to the speakers at which point where I creep a little bit in. But generally it's off.

Hi David1234. Thanks for the in-depth and inciteful information. I really appreciate the advice on the features and setting the sound on my new SM900 Bass head. Pedulla-Player
 
I'm with you on that one. Jenifer is one of the Prettiest Women to have Graced the Planet. She comes off to me as more of a real person. Not quite as Sweet as my Wife but right next to her. :smug:


Allright we need some more SWR Pics and I'm just the man to take care of it. Since I decided to run the 15 with the 4x10 in my rig, using the QSC RMX 2450 there is a considerable Power drop so I went ahead and installed my Crest Audio CA9 back in my Bass Rig. Before I was running the QSC Bridged Mono into the 4x10, which gave me Tons of Clean Headroom and Low End Wallop. My 4x10 is 4 ohms and my 15 is 8 ohms so I can not run either Amp Bridged and have to run Stereo.

Funny how it works out, full power on the QSC is 2450 watts and full power on the Crest is 2000 watts but the Crest puts out more in Stereo at 4 or 8 ohms. With the QSC I was getting 650 out of the 4 ohm side and 450 out of the 8 ohm side. With the Crest it puts out 900 on the 4 ohm side and 600 on the 8 ohm side. Which equals more Kathump. It is very easy to tell just by listening.



This is to me kind of an odd setup running 8 ohms on one side and 4 ohms on the other but when I think about it, it works best because the 15 could not hardly take 900 watts of Crest anyway.

All that being said I would absolutely love to try out the SWR Power 750 Poweramp.





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Anywho lets see some more SWR's!

I can not wait to get my grubby hands on the new Neo Marcus Miller Sealed 4x10.

Man I'd love to see how your rig goes with an SWR Power Amp! Those just look great!
 
okay so today i took it to my friend who is an electrician. he took it all apart and isolated the preamp and the power amp. we found that on the power amp one of the transistors had a short in it. so he said that i should replace that transistor and see if that helps, if it doesnt then we are just one step closer to ruling out the faults.

A 750 is a mono amp. Were you running one 4 ohm cab and one 8 ohm cab?
I did this with a GIII 8 ohm and a GIII jr. 8 ohm. the 2x10 was noticeably louder than the 4x10. Didn't do it again.
 
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