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Here's mine:
GP12XV -> RA300 -> 2103H + 1153
I'm really loving the punchiness and sound tweakability of the pre and with my latest addition, the 15", I _feel_ myself as an actual bass-player
I have been using this set for about a year at home, so at low volume (w/o the 1153) and it worked perfect. I have used it twice at high volumes now, and during both rehearsals at some point it stops working in the middle of all action. I see the nice gain-traffic-lights having fun, assuming there is signal coming into the GP12XV, but no sound. Well, not really no sound, but at really low volumes, like ass if the RA300 was switched off if you know what I mean.
Someone will use this as their new quote!
Switching off/on the pre works, but switching off/on the RA300 also makes the sound come back... (tried this in subsequent amp-failures).
I've been told that the ground-switches on both the pre- and poweramp should NOT be switched alike right?
I don't believe so. I think my manual says must be grounded - no lift.
Do you guys have any clues on what this might be? Can it be that I'm pushing it over its limits (I'm trying to stay below the pre's red-light, but I might get a bit excited when things happen I you know what I mean
You led Tachometer (like in your car) should not be going to the red. That's why a yellow zone (LED) is there. If you are hitting the RED a lot, you're over-driving your preamp and it may trip and shut down.
Oops... never let a Dutch guy write in English
Hmmm... protection circuits sound reassuring. What would be the wise thing to do? Dial back the gain a bit (duh), maybe hook up a limiter?
Oops... never let a Dutch guy write in English
Then both the pre- and poweramp's ground-switch must be switched on? Doesn't that mean you create a nice ground loop that can result in all sorts of unwanted stuff? (yes, with 'stuff' I mean I don't know exactly what)
You may want to consult an FOH technician (sound board guy) and see how he sets up the band's equipment. It may be different in the Netherlands - I'm no expert..
I do have a manual for the GP12 smx and the GP11 MKV...
Both say you MAY lift the Mains earth from the signal circuits to eliminate ground loops. The chassis and all metal parts remains grounded EVEN when the earth lift switch in in the LIFTED position for safety reasons - per the manual.
So, IF you are experiencing a ground loop problem, Trace Elliot has provided an easy way to isolate the signal circuit from the earth ground you can switch to LIFT.
Also, per the manual...
"The optimum setting is achieved when the input gain control is as high as possible without lighting the red LED."
It then goes on to instruct you how to properly adjust your gain.... If you would like a copy, PM me your email address...
So, if you ARE seeing the RED led lighting up, your gain is set to high.
Hmmm... protection circuits sound reassuring. What would be the wise thing to do? Dial back the gain a bit (duh) YES,
maybe hook up a limiter? The GAIN control is your limiter if set properly.
Also, does it make sense blaming the pre for this if turning the poweramp off and back on again resolves the problem?
I'm pretty sure that's 4 Ohm per channel, the cabs are both rated 200 W @ 8 Ohm, so that should be fine.
Weirdo thing on my AH130...I know the LED works but I can rarely get it to light, no matter how hard I hammer the strings (and both basses are actives and run thru the passive in). I set my gain @ 7 and hope for the best...no obvious clipping tho, so I think I'm OK.
. It's in an extremely good shape. No scratches or dents, except for a tiny scratch on the speaker grill. I have no clue regarding the year of production, but it's an older one (400 Watts, 4 ohms). No red lines between the speakers, though. The serial code and corresponding info (watts, ohms) is sadly illegible.
That's the only gripe I have with TE, they use a sharpie to mark the model, serial number, etc on the ID plate. It fades away to fast...A few days ago, I asked a question about Trace 2x15's in this topic...
First of all, thanks a lot "tracebassplayer" for hinting me to someone who sells the current and the old model. Thanks to everyone else for informing me about the cab.
Since delivery to Europe for such a heavy cab was out of my budget, I went on a more local search and a few days ago, on the Dutch ebay variant, one popped up.
TODAY, that very cab is standing in my garage
lol Spendy - yes ... but easily done. Post some pics, please. We wanna see!
That's the only gripe I have with TE, they use a sharpie to mark the model, serial number, etc on the ID plate. It fades away to fast...
Shipping that cab in the USA coast to coast is around 165.00 USD
You say 400 watt / 4 ohm .. that would be a 1524 ... 15x2@4ohm... NIIIIICE.
Sounds like yours is Pre-Gibson prior to 1998) maybe Kaman era (late 92-97) - no red racing stripes. It does have the round ports, yes?
Green TE carpet or black tolex?
Looks like this?....
. I really found your PM very helpful, but decided to also look if there weren't any to be found in Western Europe before considering those ones. I'm in Belgium... Buying a cab like that in the States would probably be over 200$ shipping + 21% customs taxes on the total price (cab + shipping). Also, Belgian customs are SLOW.
No offense taken.No offence meant at all
Well, it REALLY looks the one on the pic. It's all black, except for the logo, but it feels different than regular tolex.
I was agreeing with your dilemma about your serial number
play on!
No offense taken.
Yeah, it's not really "Tolex", it's like their carpet - a special make of dimpled "vinyl" ... I prefer the TE carpet myself.
Glad you found what you were looking for.
Play on
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