The Hossenfeffer III Build

[ctmullins]

My friend, once again your steadfast and diligent attention to detail, along with painstaking craftsmanship, has triumphed.

Now DON’T DROP IT AGAIN.

 

[StereoPlayer]

I think your repairs are superb.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

I certainly must include my sincerest AWE at the artistic swagger of your Jib sir

 

[Gilmourisgod]

My friend, once again your steadfast and diligent attention to detail, along with painstaking craftsmanship, has triumphed.

Now DON’T DROP IT AGAIN.

Draconian Measures and Redundant Idiot-Proofing WILL be employed......

 

[Gilmourisgod]

In pursuit of NOT DROPPING IT:
I threaded the hook end of (2) swiveling paint bucket hooks, hung from eyelets emedded into 2x floor joists above, and held on with nylon washers and wingnuts bigger than the tuner holes, so I'd have to work pretty hard to pry these off

...and a set of sofa cushions wrapped in plastic below, just in case...

20 coats in... including the original Pre-Effup coats, thats somewhere around 30-35 coats total, lost track on the first batch

So here's where I'm at:

I'm really happy with the results using makeup sponges and Wipe On Poly, it leaves nearly imperceptible "brush strokes", the downside being it takes FOREVER to build up a decent film thickness. I really have no idea if this is thick enough to wet sand. Anybody got experience buffing this stuff out?

I could use some advice on the finishing stages. I've read anywhere from 2-6 weeks curing time before buffing out, maybe shoot for 4?

Wetsand with 2k, 3K, and then micromesh, or just go straight to hand rubbing buffing compond and then swirl remover? I'd call this a gloss finish with some very minor streaks and lap marks, but no real blems or drips, just the inevitable dust motes and such.

I don't have a buffing wheel, but do have some foam pads for my drill, I used them on the HF 1, and it worked, but flung compound in a huge arc aroud it, hell of a mess.

I'm leaning towards hand-buffing it, since I have no idea on how thick the finish is, I already had a couple sand-throughs trying to remove minor drips and lap marks.

It occurs to me that the fingerboard masking has been on there for MONTHS, might be....interesting.... peeling it off. Anybody know if Goo Be Gone will eat poly?

 

[RichterScale]

Anybody got experience buffing this stuff out?

No.
Just wanna say, that's too dam nice.
And I'm quite smitten with the HS veneer.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

That was a nice recovery, sir. The bass still looks gorgeous. I haven’t tried to buff out wipe on poly so no helpful advice there, sorry.

 

[RichterScale]

It occurs to me that the fingerboard masking has been on there for MONTHS, might be....interesting.... peeling it off. Anybody know if Goo Be Gone will eat poly?

If you mean this stuff,

I've used it a bunch. It works great and doesn't damage finishes. On tougher stuff, you might have to go at it a second time. The worst thing about it is that it's a bit oily. So after you clean the adhesive, you have to clean the goo gone off. I would apply it to a rag and work the gunk off. Then maybe a damp rag dipped in soapy water.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

The craftsmanship , the wood of course, and the flow of the design make this object quite a treasure.

Hats off to you sir.

Just jaw droppingly (sorry poor choice of phrase) beautiful.

As to the fretboard, googone should be safe.
Try this formulation:
https://www.amazon.com/Goo-Gone-Ori...06938&sprefix=adhesive+cleanine,aps,242&sr=8-
6&linkCode=ll1&tag=homearise0ce-20&linkId=a3b3f360f6c285a09ba8aa29e80232a2&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl


3 Easy Ways On How To Remove Old Masking Tape From Wood - Home Arise

 

[ctmullins]

Your sofa cushions are hilarious!!

Also, your sofa cushions are very, very wise.

As I tell my teenager, “Accidents are avoidable; you just have to live long enough to have experienced a bunch of them, and then you know what to anticipate.”

 

[ardgedee]

If that green tape is Frog, it might could be OK.

I peeled some years-old Frog Tape off my garage wall and it was fine. Your fretboard finish is probably stronger than thinly-painted sheetrock.

 

[Beej]

Fantastic. I also laughed out loud at the double hook hanging setup with redundancy cushions, but I do respect the wisdom from past trauma.

With minwax wipe on poly, I've hand finished it with lightly wetsanding 1500 in mineral spirits around a hard white eraser and then hand rub it with a rubbing compound meant for metal polishing and fiberglass I buy locally at a boatbuilder supply. It's really similar to 3M super duty but I can get it in little jars. After that, meguiar's swirl remover for a glass finish.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

That sounds like a plan, I have some 2000 grit and mineral spirits, I’ll give it a try….after 4 weeks or so curing…
In the meantime, I can start making a neck for the Hossenfeffer IV. Whoop!

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Heh. “I slipped on the icy sidewalk, right onto my Redundancy Cushions”.

 

[41hzthunder]

Awesome looking bass. Good to see the rebound/fix came out so well. Excellent work!!! Inspirational! Gotta' get off my Redundancy Cushions and build another bass.

 

[ProbablyTooLoud]

Wow.
That's amazing.

 

[deff]

I mean you think you have it secure but clearly there is a disconnected fire detector just winking at you tempting fate once again. Very excited to see the final product!

 

[Gary_M]

It occurs to me that the fingerboard masking has been on there for MONTHS, might be....interesting.... peeling it off. Anybody know if Goo Be Gone will eat poly?

If you want to play it safe, use some naptha to remove the tape residue. The bass looks fantastic!

 

[Gilmourisgod]

I mean you think you have it secure but clearly there is a disconnected fire detector just winking at you tempting fate once again. Very excited to see the final product!

That effing thing keeps making a little "chirp" noise every couple minutes, so I unplugged it. It's hard-wired, so its not the battery, just a bad detector. I have one right outside the door too, so I'm covered. Probably not the best place to do finish work, but at least it's warm and dry. The shop I share with my brother is so crusted with micro-fine sawdust, it's impossible to do finish work over there.

 

[BishopJP]

In pursuit of NOT DROPPING IT:
I threaded the hook end of (2) swiveling paint bucket hooks, hung from eyelets emedded into 2x floor joists above, and held on with nylon washers and wingnuts bigger than the tuner holes, so I'd have to work pretty hard to pry these off

...and a set of sofa cushions wrapped in plastic below, just in case...

20 coats in... including the original Pre-Effup coats, thats somewhere around 30-35 coats total, lost track on the first batch

So here's where I'm at:

I'm really happy with the results using makeup sponges and Wipe On Poly, it leaves nearly imperceptible "brush strokes", the downside being it takes FOREVER to build up a decent film thickness. I really have no idea if this is thick enough to wet sand. Anybody got experience buffing this stuff out?

I could use some advice on the finishing stages. I've read anywhere from 2-6 weeks curing time before buffing out, maybe shoot for 4?

Wetsand with 2k, 3K, and then micromesh, or just go straight to hand rubbing buffing compond and then swirl remover? I'd call this a gloss finish with some very minor streaks and lap marks, but no real blems or drips, just the inevitable dust motes and such.

I don't have a buffing wheel, but do have some foam pads for my drill, I used them on the HF 1, and it worked, but flung compound in a huge arc aroud it, hell of a mess.

I'm leaning towards hand-buffing it, since I have no idea on how thick the finish is, I already had a couple sand-throughs trying to remove minor drips and lap marks.

It occurs to me that the fingerboard masking has been on there for MONTHS, might be....interesting.... peeling it off. Anybody know if Goo Be Gone will eat poly?

This is a gorgeous instrument; knowing the damage you fixed makes even more amazing!

You probably can buff the clear before 2 weeks but it's not worth taking the chance if you don't have to, IMO. 3-4 weeks for full-cure is a much safer bet.