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The Mike Lull Club Part 4

#321
My first Mike Lull. #2314, It's such a nice bass. The way it's made, the the way it play's and sounds. I can't wait to get another soon. I have to get another metallic finish next. Gold or copper Jazz then a T bird.


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Mike Lull's are incredible.
 
#330
ToeJam76 said:
I wanted to post a clip of my P4 Fretless. I don't have Paulie's chops but, I wanted to have a little fun with Coltrane's "Lonnie's Lament" since I just learned the melody! Anyways, please be forgiving, my intonation isn't 100% and I'm freetiming it a bit to get some "MWAAHH" from those sustained notes. So here it is, I hope you enjoy:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6irjBzjVrfk
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Nice! You do a good job with the vibrato.
 
#332
Well read further on about my B. I spoke too soon. I am loving my 34" but the B on it is definitely not as punchy as my 35 Lull PJ. Very noticeable difference. I'm swamped with gigs this week but plan on calling either Paul or Mike next week to discuss my low B. It is punchy but not like the other strings. If it can be fixed, I'll be extremely happy. If there's any way you can sample some of his other basses of different scale length, that would be wise. My 34 is super comfortable and is wicked warm and punchy but the 35" is a sure bet. I'll update this thread because I believe others may ultimately benefit from what I learn.
 
#335
funkythumb said:
Well read further on about my B. I spoke too soon. I am loving my 34" but the B on it is definitely not as punchy as my 35 Lull PJ. Very noticeable difference. I'm swamped with gigs this week but plan on calling either Paul or Mike next week to discuss my low B. It is punchy but not like the other strings. If it can be fixed, I'll be extremely happy. If there's any way you can sample some of his other basses of different scale length, that would be wise. My 34 is super comfortable and is wicked warm and punchy but the 35" is a sure bet. I'll update this thread because I believe others may ultimately benefit from what I learn.
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thanks for that heads-up!
 
#336
Don't underestimate the effect that the string itself can have. Different brands & gauges can change the way a B feels and sounds. I would suggest you give a set of DR Sunbeams, Hi Beams or Fat Beams a shot. Those are all wound on round cores, and they tend to produce a nice, solid fundamental.

And run the B string in through the back of the body (that'll work w/ DR's on a 34, but not on a 35 IME).

Just a suggestion... good luck!
 
#337
RocketMusic said:
Don't underestimate the effect that the string itself can have. Different brands & gauges can change the way a B feels and sounds. I would suggest you give a set of DR Sunbeams, Hi Beams or Fat Beams a shot. Those are all wound on round cores, and they tend to produce a nice, solid fundamental.
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VERY good points.


Just one note about this tho... if you've never used round core strings before (as they are not very common), MAKE SURE to read the instruction sheet about crimping BEFORE you cut the excess off. You can literally ruin a Beam if you cut before you crimp/bend the end.

The other thing I like about he round cores is, they tend to last a lot longer, as the core is in constant contact with the inner winding... there are no "edges" to wear down and loosen up as quickly.

The only "downside" to them, if you can call it that, is that they are slinkier, so you might have to raise your action.

The DR LoRiders get their name from being stiffer, due in large part to their hex core, hence the ability to set the action lower.

Just some random string stuff. :)

And run the B string in through the back of the body (that'll work w/ DR's on a 34, but not on a 35 IME).
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I've tried this, and at least in my case, the jury is still out as to whether this really does much or not. FWIW anyway.
 
#338
RocketMusic said:
Don't underestimate the effect that the string itself can have. Different brands & gauges can change the way a B feels and sounds. I would suggest you give a set of DR Sunbeams, Hi Beams or Fat Beams a shot. Those are all wound on round cores, and they tend to produce a nice, solid fundamental.

And run the B string in through the back of the body (that'll work w/ DR's on a 34, but not on a 35 IME).

Just a suggestion... good luck!
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Great suggestion which I've already started. The M5V came with the D'Addario steels. Decent string. I next tried three sets of Sadowsky Blue Label which I liked very much. They have more high mids. Yesterday I threw on an old pair of Rotosounds which were still washed and bright. The Rotos sounded the most different. Not as much high mids. Keep in mind, I've had a lot of gigs these last couple of weeks and my hands sweat and that's why I change sets. I also soak/wash all my strings in denatured alcohol for a couple days which brings them back to brand new sound. I keep strings for at least a couple years before they break. Three different brands so far with fairly consistent low B response. I was thinking about the DR's. I was at GCenter today and thought about getting a pair. Will try but I'm happy with the Sadowsky's.
 
#339
funkythumb said:
Great suggestion which I've already started. The M5V came with the D'Addario steels. Decent string. I next tried three sets of Sadowsky Blue Label which I liked very much. They have more high mids. Yesterday I threw on an old pair of Rotosounds which were still washed and bright. The Rotos sounded the most different. Not as much high mids. Keep in mind, I've had a lot of gigs these last couple of weeks and my hands sweat and that's why I change sets. I also soak/wash all my strings in denatured alcohol for a couple days which brings them back to brand new sound. I keep strings for at least a couple years before they break. Three different brands so far with fairly consistent low B response. I was thinking about the DR's. I was at GCenter today and thought about getting a pair. Will try but I'm happy with the Sadowsky's.
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I really like the DR stuff and also in particular, the Sadowsky Blue SS's, but I will say the D'Addario XL nickels are supposed to be very well liked by a LOT of people... and nickels do work great on a J bass. I've used them in the past, but it's been a long time, so I can't say much about them right now from personal experience. I'm going to try them next on my M5V.
 
#340
Great hear about the nickels. I actually have a brand new set of D'Adarrio nickels sitting in drawer that I was saving for my fretless. Guess I'll be throwing them on. I love nickels but tend to go with steels because nickels don't wash well in denatured alcohol. The clean up a bit but they never sound close to their original state. My hunch is that strings are not the issue causing my Low B to not be it's best. Funny that I had a similar issue with my upright low E string sounding woofy down at the low F. I unstuck the bridge from the vanish on the body and voila! it came to life. This is a physical thing with the neck I'm guessing.
 

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