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The Official MTD USA Thread

Hey MTD Fam

I am getting ready to purchase my first MTD 535!
But my dilemma is that I am stuck between
- the Famed Blue burst English Sycamore body/Maple neck/ Birdseye Maple 535
- and the Traditional Tulipwood body/Wenge neck&FB.

I don't know which one to choose!!!
I live in California so obviously it would be much easier to test the Traditional wood combo 535 in LA
the Sycamore body MTD is in the UK.
Any body have any experience with the bass in the UK ?
Comments appreciated.


Thanks!
Tony
I don't, but I am a fan of that sycamore body for sure...kinda sounds like it depends on what you're looking for finally...the sycamore comes off as brighter and maybe more aggressive..it really reminds me of ash...
 
I don't, but I am a fan of that sycamore body for sure...kinda sounds like it depends on what you're looking for finally...the sycamore comes off as brighter and maybe more aggressive..it really reminds me of ash...

Thanx for the response.
Im looking for an all around bass, is good enough to slap and not sound so jazz bassy, but also that it can hold up doing some contemporary/ rock.
I do more gospel than anything tho with the occasional rock. I know the tulipwood/wenge/wenge is super focused but its only an option in my book because its close by.
 
Thanx for the response.
Im looking for an all around bass, is good enough to slap and not sound so jazz bassy, but also that it can hold up doing some contemporary/ rock.
I do more gospel than anything tho with the occasional rock. I know the tulipwood/wenge/wenge is super focused but its only an option in my book because its close by.
Sounds like you're talking about the tulipwood/wenge...
 
I haven't been a fan of the maple boarded 535s I've played so my vote would be for the wenge.

I have had some fantastic wenge-fingerboard MTDs, and some fantastic maple-fingerboard MTDs. Especially with Mike's basses, there is a lot of variation between the different wood combinations, and I would hesitate to pick one wood choice (fingerboard) over another in all cases.

FWIW, my favorite MTDs of all time have had maple and ebony fingerboards.
 
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I'm having a Super 6 made for me which should be done by the end of this year. I wanted a warm, thick, round, and clear bass that sits in the mix more in the traditional spots rather than the super wide dynamic range of the normal 635 and 535's. I'm hoping it'll have a warm, thick finger tone and a nice traditional slap tone that can cut through when dug into. It'll be a 34 inch scale bass and 17mm spacing so that I can grab chords better. It should complement my Ash/Maple, Maple/Mac Ebony 534-24's growly, huge, wide, zinginess nicely.

Specs are:

Makore Body
Myrtle Burl Top
Maple Neck
Florida Rosewood Fret Board
 
I'm having a Super 6 made for me which should be done by the end of this year. I wanted a warm, thick, round, and clear bass that sits in the mix more in the traditional spots rather than the super wide dynamic range of the normal 635 and 535's. I'm hoping it'll have a warm, thick finger tone and a nice traditional slap tone that can cut through when dug into. It'll be a 34 inch scale bass and 17mm spacing so that I can grab chords better. It should complement my Ash/Maple, Maple/Mac Ebony 534-24's growly, huge, wide, zinginess nicely.

Specs are:

Makore Body
Myrtle Burl Top
Maple Neck
Florida Rosewood Fret Board
This is my tonal preference as well. That looks like a nice spec. I haven't had the pleasure of playing an MTD but am interested in a 535 with makore body, some kind of burl top and a maple neck. Listening to demos and reading owner comments, there is a difference between maple, rosewood, and ebony fingerboards in the attack, warmth, and overtones of the note. I always find myself dialing out some of the brightness and click of a maple board but wonder if the titanium inserts (and perhaps wenge stringers) tame that a bit? I'm impressed with how an ebony board can have such clarity and warmth at the same time, but is it so clear the bass doesn't growl when you dig in? Rosewood has been a favorite for a warmer more traditional tone. MTD is known for it's clarity and articulation so would rosewood be good for a nice fat finger style tone but still have enough bite for a good slap tone? Fau Perro is supposed to lie sonically between rosewood and ebony and I don't see it used much in MTD.
 
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This is my tonal preference as well. That looks like a nice spec. I haven't had the pleasure of playing an MTD but am interested in a 535 with makore body, some kind of burl top and a maple neck. Listening to demos and reading owner comments, there is a difference between maple, rosewood, and ebony fingerboards in the attack, warmth, and overtones of the note. I always find myself dialing out some of the brightness and click of a maple board but wonder if the titanium inserts (and perhaps wenge stringers) tame that a bit? I'm impressed with how an ebony board can have such clarity and warmth at the same time, but is it so clear the bass doesn't growl when you dig in? Rosewood has been a favorite for a warmer more traditional tone. MTD is known for it's clarity and articulation so would rosewood be good for a nice fat finger style tone but still have enough bite for a good slap tone? Fau Perro is supposed to lie sonically between rosewood and ebony and I don't see it used much in MTD.

My 534 is just that. It's warm in the low end, nicely articulate mids, crisp, sweet highs, and growl. On instagram, I posted a short 15 sec video that gives a good idea of what it sounds like. @glennhlee

I had a ash/maple maple/rosewood 635 that was really FAT. It was tamer than most MTD's I've owned (except the mahog/wenge 535) but with good steel strings it cut through like butter. Pau Ferro is actually a favorite fretboard of mine. It's warmer than ebony and the treble bump is at a lower frequency point, giving it less cut and more apparent thickness in the highs.
 
received_1155016641179857.jpeg

I got these two beauties! Although, the one on the right is up ft. If anyone knows anyone with a 635-24 that's wanting a killer 535-24, you know where to look!
 
My 534 is just that. It's warm in the low end, nicely articulate mids, crisp, sweet highs, and growl. On instagram, I posted a short 15 sec video that gives a good idea of what it sounds like. @glennhlee

I had a ash/maple maple/rosewood 635 that was really FAT. It was tamer than most MTD's I've owned (except the mahog/wenge 535) but with good steel strings it cut through like butter. Pau Ferro is actually a favorite fretboard of mine. It's warmer than ebony and the treble bump is at a lower frequency point, giving it less cut and more apparent thickness in the highs.
This is helpful. I spoke with Glenn from Austin Bass Traders about this tone profile and the styles of music I play and he suggested a walnut body with maple top and maple neck with ebony board. He felt this provides a good balance between width vs focus, warm but articulate without the high end brightness of a maple board, and slots nicely in a traditional mix without much eq needed.
 
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Wondering if anyone could speak to the difference between makore vs swamp ash body with maple neck/rosewood board? Love the warm woody tone that rosewood has.
Assuming you are talking about 535s, not exactly - but I have owned both an alder/maple/rosewood 535 and a makore/maple/rosewood 535. I'm not sure how valuable my observations will be to you since it was just one example of each combination but this is what I found: the alder/rosewood was much more "traditional" sounding than the makore/rosewood. Now, I'm not sure if the rosewood was the same type on both basses but the tops were different (for what that's worth). The makore had a spalted mango top and the alder a maple burl top. The makore was "harder" sounding and not as wide in the low mids. Very focused and very "MTD". More razor-like than the alder, which has a very punchy and warm low midrange. The alder is still focused but has a thicker tone and is more open and more pillowy (while maintaining great clarity and overall punchiness). I liked the makore but I love my alder 535. I do also have experience with a swamp ash/Florida rosewood Saratoga. Also very traditional sounding (for an MTD). Quite similar in many respects to the alder 535 but, predictably, more Jazz bass like and slightly more "polite" than 535s tend to be.
 
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The makore was "harder" sounding and not as wide in the low mids. Very focused and very "MTD". More razor-like than the alder, which has a very punchy and warm low midrange. The alder is still focused but has a thicker tone and is more open and more pillowy (while maintaining great clarity and overall punchiness). I liked the makore but I love my alder 535.

bass12...your comparison of Makore vs Alder is very well stated and "spot on" IME, too! I've always found it difficult to articulate the tone differences in these two woods...I'll just refer to ^^^!!!
 
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Not much activity of late, in one of my fav threads here...so I'll throw this out:

No bass pics yet, but I have a build due @end of the year:

534-24
Red Narra top
Roasted Ash body
Maple neck
Roasted BEM board
Lowered fretboard (like AG model) [EDIT]

Looking for more bite/growl to contrast my AG... Mike only had 4 Red Narra tops left and none of them were solid dark red...so decided on a multi-shaded, very unique top:
image.jpg
 
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