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The Official Warwick Club Thread (Part 2)

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#121
tdogg said:
very nice luke73. i wish my vette had black hardware. im thinking about replacing the chrome hardware with black but turns out the warwick bridges are really spendy. you got a pic with the ebony knobs? and how are the barts? i was thinking about the same mod
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mkrtu9 said:
+1 on picks of the ebony knobs pleeeeeaaaase
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Here are some pics of my bass with the Barts and Ebony knobs for comparison with the pics above of it in it's original state.

In addition to those mods, I've given the control cavity additional coats of shielding paint, and have shielded the pickup cavities as well as painting a base coat of shielding paint under the bridge, and sanding the paint off the underside of the bridge to reveal the bare brass to provide a better bridge ground contact.

CorvetteSTD8.jpg


CorvetteSTD9.jpg


CorvetteSTD10.jpg


CorvetteSTD11.jpg


CorvetteSTD12.jpg


I sourced the Ebony knobs from www.stewmac.com - they were only a few bucks each from memory. I did need to carefully drill them deeper for the coarse splined pots I have, but they fit fairly well now.

:)
 
#122
Great idea and great look!

I took the all black hardware off my 91 SSI and put it on a fretless ebony neck Vette including tiger eye on dome ebony knobs. Then took the Vette's chrome stuff and put it on SSI which made it look like most other SSIs, then sold the Vette to a happy buyer and both basses looked better for it.

There was a moment or two where the difference of 15 or so years seemed to make a difference with the bridge swap/fit, then I used each basses own screws, even on tuners, then it worked! there can be differences in tuner peg length fit too with the different headstock thicknesses which I just found out with another swapping I did with Buzzard stuff to the SSI...
 
#123
maddrakkett said:
+1 on the 9CBJD1 for all the reasons Luke said. Beautiful, almost acoustic sound for my fretless bubinga 'Vette, and none of the hum or buzz!

I also have the brighter 3 version in my bubinga Thumb NT, which keeps more of the Thumb's unique growl, but also gives me the option of having a true passive mode or a passive with active EQ (a Bartolini 18V 3 band EQ with MEC pots, so I still have a Vol./Blend stack and the original Warwick knobs).

Bill Bartolini knows how to make the right pickup and electronics that I can swear by, not swear at! :D
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Thank you, maddrakkett! :)
 
#125
Thanks for the kind words Dano and vates,

Another quick tip is (sorry - don't mean to derail the thread, but it's related to Warwicks):

My Barts had screw holes that are a larger diameter than the metal thread screws our Warwicks use. This meant a little room for movement side to side of the pickup when using the pickup as an anchor for the thumb when playing. I float around a bit, but when I'm playing over the pup I tend to anchor my thumb there a bit. The feeling of slight movement was disconcerting, so I thought of a nice way to fix it.

Get some heat shrink tube - the kind that you'd find at your local electronics store used for insulating electronics wiring (probably Radio Shack for those of you in the US). Choose a diameter that is slightly larger than the screw diameter (I chose black for obvious reasons - although it's not visible once installed).

Cut it into lengths (you'll need eight pieces - one for each screw) just longer than the depth of the pup, then slide over each screw right up to the base of the screw head. Use a hot blower to shrink the tube, and then reinstall the screws, and set your pickup height.

The Heat shrink tube "sleeve" on each screw just fits in the hole in the pup, and means it's a nice snug fit in the holes, and stops any side to side wiggling.

I'm not sure how many brands of pickup this applies to, but it worked nicely on my Barts. I think the Warwick metal thread screws (which I find far superior to self tapping timber screws for pickup retention) are a thinner diameter to many self tappers used by other manufacturers to secure pickups and adjust height.

:)
 
#126
Chris2112 said:
IMO Warwick should cease to offer chrome hardware, the black hardware just looks so much classier! Excellent photographs you have there, the quality is brilliant!
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Thank you Chris ;)

The photos are all very simple - just a piece of black material on the floor of my study with My Nikon D70 (the first pics) and my Wife's Nikon D50 (the pics I took tonight) with a Nikon 50mm f1.8 lens.

Very poor lighting (just the 60w light globe in my study and no flash), but the 50mm f1.8 lens means I can get a decent shutter speed with a wide aperture to keep the hand held shots acceptably sharp. I pushed the ISO to 800 also for the pics tonight (might even have been 1200 for the first set of pics if I recall).

The only processing I did was to resize them, adjust levels (mostly set black point), and apply a small amount of unsharp mask in The GIMP. I've reduced the quality (increased jpeg compression) of course to keep the file sizes small also.

:)
 
#130
Mr. Pickles said:
bostonasphalt2 -
How do you like your Hot Blonde in the middle of the photo? I have one on the way from Atlanta Bass Gallery. Should be here by Tuesday or so. I'm hoping it will be my main bass.
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I absolutely love it! LOVE IT LOVE IT LOVE IT!! it has such a sweet, warm sound that can still get downright zingy. I actually go for this one over most of my other axes. I think only my Thumb 5 gets more attention.
 
#135
Here's my pride and joy. Bubinga Corvette with active pu's on the right and #188 Custom Shop model with AAAA Koa top and active pu's. These are my babies.:bassist::bassist:
 
#137
Very nice Luke! I'm glad you're digging the Barts. If memory serves me correct they were originally from my fretless Swamp Ash Corvette that is now in the possession of Fake-Bass. Great pickups indeed!

Luke73 said:
Here are some pics of my bass with the Barts and Ebony knobs for comparison with the pics above of it in it's original state.

In addition to those mods, I've given the control cavity additional coats of shielding paint, and have shielded the pickup cavities as well as painting a base coat of shielding paint under the bridge, and sanding the paint off the underside of the bridge to reveal the bare brass to provide a better bridge ground contact.

CorvetteSTD8.jpg


I sourced the Ebony knobs from www.stewmac.com - they were only a few bucks each from memory. I did need to carefully drill them deeper for the coarse splined pots I have, but they fit fairly well now.

:)
Click to expand...
 
#138
How do Jazzmans differ in tone, feel, etc? Also, I'm thinking of getting a fretless. What do you folks think is a killer Warwick fretless --4 string--and what wood would you recommend? Thanks for the input. I PM'd Daywalker and am waiting for my member #. Thanks for the compliment on the KOA. I'm really interested in hearing different Warwicks and the tones that the different woods give. ;)
 
#139
Yeh Mon said:
How do Jazzmans differ in tone, feel, etc? Also, I'm thinking of getting a fretless. What do you folks think is a killer Warwick fretless --4 string--and what wood would you recommend? Thanks for the input. I PM'd Daywalker and am waiting for my member #. Thanks for the compliment on the KOA. I'm really interested in hearing different Warwicks and the tones that the different woods give. ;)
Click to expand...


My 2002 LTD JazzMan can sound like a jazz, stingray, P, or jazz+stingray combined, and with a unique Warwick touch.
 
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