Tonight's girlfriend...
I friggin love this thing.
I friggin love this thing.
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The Soundgear Club
- Thread starter THE DANiMAL
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Does GIO count? If so...
2014 GSR200B:
If not...
2018 SR305E?
2014 GSR200B:
If not...
2018 SR305E?
That's what I got mine for, $700 on Reverb, and in fantastic shape. You ain't kidding about the Nordstrand setup, it's a lot more powerful sounding than the MK1 setup, and the passive mode sounds great! Most of my previous basses all had humbuckers, and I really wasn't into single coils, but the Big Singles changed that story.
While I like my SR500L I just bought an SR1200L with Nordy's. I had owned one a few years ago and regretfully sold it. I really like the sound of the Nordy's over the Barts. However, the SR500 will continue to serve as a blues and country or acoustic gig bass. My new SR1200L will be my rock live stage bass.
My SR500L looks more like the first one with grain. The second one doesn't look real to me. BTW the finishes are nice but fragile. My wife has bumped my bass by accident with a vacuum cleaner and it left indentations, and she put one small nick in it.I'm planning on getting a SR500e. I could use some help on a few questions:
1) Are all new SR500e basses made with Bartolini Mark II pickups?
2) Some of the SR500e basses on Ebay from Japan are selling for a lot more that those sold in the US. Is there a difference?
3) I'm curious regarding the color of the bass. Some of them online seem to be a deep reddish/brown with visible grain:
Others seem to be a lighter color without much grain:
View attachment 3863538
Perhaps the color difference is due to lighting.
Thank you in advance for your input!
it just occurred to me I haven't posted a pic of this SR1105B yet...
That's the exact bass i have my eye on! How do you like it!?
This really ticks the boxes for me:
*List $1199 on Sweetwater.
*All the desired features found on the more expensive Premium models (...I have the 1405) including the Nordies and KTS neck.
*Forego the natural figured top but add a satin poly finish...I would assume it provides some addt'l protection.
*I like white!
I see a refinement in the monorail design. It appears there's a fixed ball-end anchor at the back end of each assembly with an intonation screw / spring which moves the saddle back 'n forth...pretty normal. On mine, the saddle and ball-end are mounted on a single shared "sled" so they move in tandem. It's kinda neat as you don't have to re-set your witness points during the intonation process...the relationship (distance) between the saddle / string contact and anchor doesn't change.
Riis
same here...i don't particularly care for the gold hardware and the hippie sandwich look of all the laminates in the other premium basses...the solid color, black hardware and the premium things like the titanium rods, look of the 2+3 tuners on the headstock, Nordstrands, etc., did it for me...I like it
I switched to cosmo-black hardware on mine & went for the Res-O-Lite machine-heads, which removed about 100 Grams of Mass from the headstock:
As you can see, the satin poly finish does wear off.
As you can see, the satin poly finish does wear off.
I switched to cosmo-black hardware on mine & went for the Res-O-Lite machine-heads, which removed about 100 Grams of Mass from the headstock:
As you can see, the satin poly finish does wear off.
Hell yea, looks great! I scored mine in a trade for a 400 dollar pistol so the gold was certainly not a deal breaker but God that black looks so much better.
Who ever was looking at the 500-900s. I suggest save a little more or keep looking. Having had both it's a huge difference in every category with the premium stuff.
I've owned a fair bit of Standard Ibanez basses & TBH the Soundgear Standards have a problem with flimsy necks, which the Titanium bars in the Premium solves!
The Wenge neck on mine Plus the KTS bars just makes it sound fantastic.
I've also had a LOT of Standard machine-heads fail on me.
If you buy a Standard or GIO Soundgear & use a machine-head winder, expect to run into a binding issue with the machine-heads:
Ibanez machine-heads, am I unlucky or doing something wrong?
Please don't post that you've owned 1,000 Standard Soundgears & NEVER had an issue, maybe you've been lucky or wind the string up slowly & carefully, or maybe you just bought one before they started going wonky.
My estimation is that it's been a problem AFTER 2012.
Also, don't post to tell me you have a FAST, great neck on your Standard Soundgear. Stiff ones are out there, but many don't even know how flimsy it might be.
GIO actually has a slightly thicker neck, BTW, making it less prone to the flimsiness.
If you want to check, set your instrument up to E-Standard, set the relief & action.
Now de-tune it to C#-Standard or summat, if it becomes unplayable, Voila!
Some claim they can tell just by pulling back on the headstock, but IME they ALL bend if you pull on the headstock, but the down-tuning trick is quantifiable!
BTW, stiffness of the neck matters a LOT.
I owned two SR300E, one with the normally flimsy Standard neck, & one with a surprisingly stiff neck. The one with the stiff neck sounded ALMOST as good as my Premium.
The other one just sounded like any other bass, nothing special. (same hardware & electronics on both)
The Wenge neck on mine Plus the KTS bars just makes it sound fantastic.
I've also had a LOT of Standard machine-heads fail on me.
If you buy a Standard or GIO Soundgear & use a machine-head winder, expect to run into a binding issue with the machine-heads:
Ibanez machine-heads, am I unlucky or doing something wrong?
Please don't post that you've owned 1,000 Standard Soundgears & NEVER had an issue, maybe you've been lucky or wind the string up slowly & carefully, or maybe you just bought one before they started going wonky.
My estimation is that it's been a problem AFTER 2012.
Also, don't post to tell me you have a FAST, great neck on your Standard Soundgear. Stiff ones are out there, but many don't even know how flimsy it might be.
GIO actually has a slightly thicker neck, BTW, making it less prone to the flimsiness.
If you want to check, set your instrument up to E-Standard, set the relief & action.
Now de-tune it to C#-Standard or summat, if it becomes unplayable, Voila!
Some claim they can tell just by pulling back on the headstock, but IME they ALL bend if you pull on the headstock, but the down-tuning trick is quantifiable!
BTW, stiffness of the neck matters a LOT.
I owned two SR300E, one with the normally flimsy Standard neck, & one with a surprisingly stiff neck. The one with the stiff neck sounded ALMOST as good as my Premium.
The other one just sounded like any other bass, nothing special. (same hardware & electronics on both)
Agreed on all points. I've found on the SR300EL and SR500EL I have to do regular truss rod maintenance on the action. I've replaced all the standard screw on truss covers with quick-flip's because of that. I have two older SR's-- one SR100 P bass type that has an excellent neck. Then one SR100EXL Music Man clone. It's actually the second one I've bought with a bowed neck and this one also has a stripped truss rod nut. I'm going to remove the neck and send it to warpedneck.com and have them straighten the neck and replace the truss rod nut. There's actually a Stewmac tool that can back out the stripped nut but I'm really busy nowadays and want someone else to suffer the pain, someone that has experience. So, long story short, 38mm Ibanez necks are fineky, 41mm Ibanez necks are more stable. Except of course the MM clone.
About the machine heads, also agreed. Often they also pinch. But these are such economy basses I don't replace parts unless they fail, and I have enough Ibanez basses that I let the broken ones sit, sometimes for months. Often you can find single Ibanez tuners for a song on eBay, and when they come up I buy them. I guess one day soon I should switch my best basses to Ultralights.
@Killed_by_Death do you still like your Vox practice amp? Didn't you do a review somewhere--got the link still?I switched to cosmo-black hardware on mine & went for the Res-O-Lite machine-heads, which removed about 100 Grams of Mass from the headstock:
As you can see, the satin poly finish does wear off.
Not a "practice" amp for me, it IS my only amp:
New Amp Day - VOX VX50BA
unless you count plugging into my computer to play over my Bose speakers
(which is mucho "transparent"!)
New Amp Day - VOX VX50BA
unless you count plugging into my computer to play over my Bose speakers
(which is mucho "transparent"!)
I ordered an SR1100B yesterday because I've wanted a premium for a couple of decades and didn't have the couple of hundred more for one of the other premium models... I saw this comment about the "wet blanket" and didn't know if you think I've made a mistake. Haven't been able to find any reviews, as it seems that reviews of the 2020 basses came out in January and the 1100B wasn't released until February. It seems like the wood choices are an amalgamation of different basses in the premium line. Do you find vas VAST differences in sound (or quality of sound) between different SR Premium models?
I love that they made the D & G side of the P pickup the half that is closer to the neck. I've always imagined that doing that would make a more even tone... have you noticed anything?
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