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The Soundgear Club

#1,541
IngerAlb said:
Actually that is a pretty special bass, since it's a limited GC only edition (as you said).

I'd kill to have a SR 5er with that top/colour, but alas nothing cool is available for EU...pff...maybe next year...
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Haha, awesome. I'm way cooler than I thought I was (bwahaha! Not!).

Lucky it's not a 5er, otherwise I'd have to watch my back ;)
 
#1,542
Memo to the good folks at Ibanez:
The definition of tight fit and finish to describe a well made bass does not need to include the control panel on the back. More than once I've had trouble removing the panel without doing damage to the bass because it fit so snugly.
Otherwise - keep up the good work!
 
#1,547
PDGood said:
Memo to the good folks at Ibanez:
The definition of tight fit and finish to describe a well made bass does not need to include the control panel on the back. More than once I've had trouble removing the panel without doing damage to the bass because it fit so snugly.
Otherwise - keep up the good work!
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Big +1!
 
#1,549
Here's what worked for me last time: I put a big piece of duct tape on the control panel and then slid an Xacto blade into the widest space between the panel and the bass. I pulled up on the tape and just gave a little nudge with the Xacto, being careful not to break the blade. Once I got it up I sanded all the edges to achieve a more relaxed fit. It looks just as nice but isn't a nightmare to deal with any more.
 
#1,550
PDGood said:
Here's what worked for me last time: I put a big piece of duct tape on the control panel and then slid an Xacto blade into the widest space between the panel and the bass. I pulled up on the tape and just gave a little nudge with the Xacto, being careful not to break the blade. Once I got it up I sanded all the edges to achieve a more relaxed fit. It looks just as nice but isn't a nightmare to deal with any more.
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It's a shelved project but I have all the stuff to make cherry wood control covers for two of my Basses. If I ever stop traveling so much for work. I will finish.

My Sr1005 is with me forever and my RD900 is close to that status too.
 
#1,551
Hey Sndgearheads! Couple yrs ago I bought a new sr500,then returned it a week later when I scratched the finish with my fingernail. Still miss how light&easy playing it was. Today I played a used sr530,white pearl&rosewood w/gold hardware. I fell in love! Is this a sr500 with nice paint? Any other differences? Not crazy about gold hardware but lovin this bass! It's 349.00-good deal?
 
#1,552
aproud1 said:
It's a shelved project but I have all the stuff to make cherry wood control covers for two of my Basses. If I ever stop traveling so much for work. I will finish.

My Sr1005 is with me forever and my RD900 is close to that status too.
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Cool. That actually would be pretty easy to do if you have tools. I've been hanging out in a woodworking shop/saw mill lately to build a bass and that would be a piece of cake with all of that guy's tools. Getting the right thickness could be the toughest part.
 
#1,553
PDGood said:
Cool. That actually would be pretty easy to do if you have tools. I've been hanging out in a woodworking shop/saw mill lately to build a bass and that would be a piece of cake with all of that guy's tools. Getting the right thickness could be the toughest part.
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Sound like you should start crankin em out and sell them to us....:D
 
#1,555
I know several are the same but not sure which.I know the Ibanez parts store would hold the info.

A lightweight T40 would be sweet. Though I'm sure there would be many people who would say the sound is in the weight.... :ninja:
 
#1,556
aproud1 said:
A lightweight T40 would be sweet. Though I'm sure there would be many people who would say the sound is in the weight.... :ninja:
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Of course, the contribution of body wood to the overall sound is a long standing debate on here. I was impressed enough by the sound files on the Atkinson custom basses website to become a believer that body woods make far less difference than many other factors. (However, I do believe that body thickness is a factor along with pickups, pickup location, bridge mass, fretboard wood, and on and on.)
But building an Alder body for a T-40 would be a great way to test the theory!
 
#1,557
So I tore my 1015 apart last night and cleaned about 14 years of funk off of it. It had this shine to it that it just wasn't supposed to have. it's kind of evident in the pictures I've posted of it. Anyways, scrubbed that bad boy very well, rubbed it down with alcohol, oiled it, and did a couple coats of Howard Feed N Wax and now it looks amazing. I'll take some pics and post them tomorrow.
 
#1,559
The whole number system is kinda screwy when it comes the 1000+ models. It used to be that anything in the 1000s was a "Professional" model, and anything 2000+ was Prestige, Until the NT 1000s came out which were called Prestiges. The "Professional" Models would be the equivalent of the current Premiums, except MIJ. I guess that's really the best answer I can give. The NT 1000 "Prestiges" really messed the whole system up.
 

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