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The Soundgear Club

SR1206 is back in the shop getting its innards tended to. Right out of the box the thing didn't work. I couldn't believe it. You'd think a bass full of Nordy electronics would be flawless. Not the case. It just flat-out would not produce noise; period. Unless I hit the strings super hard, then it somehow would come to life for a minute, but the neck pup wouldn't work. Then, if I touched the bass knob, it would stop working for good. Hopefully it's in good hands...

They loaned me an SR1205 in the meantime to fill the void. This thing feels like a toy to me now. I keep wanting to reach for that high C!!
 
Here is a pic of my SRA500(discontinued) and my SR300DS. I love them both!! my 300DS was my first bass (im getting ready to change out pups and pre-amp). The SRA, i just love that thing. It has dual passive humbuckers, and an active 3 band EQ. they both sound great over my Ampeg svt350 head with an Ampeg 4x10, and 1x15.

Just seeing if i can get a number, thanks!!
 
SR1206 is back in the shop getting its innards tended to. Right out of the box the thing didn't work. I couldn't believe it. You'd think a bass full of Nordy electronics would be flawless. Not the case. It just flat-out would not produce noise; period. Unless I hit the strings super hard, then it somehow would come to life for a minute, but the neck pup wouldn't work. Then, if I touched the bass knob, it would stop working for good. Hopefully it's in good hands...

They loaned me an SR1205 in the meantime to fill the void. This thing feels like a toy to me now. I keep wanting to reach for that high C!!

Sorry to hear that!!
 
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SR1206 is back in the shop getting its innards tended to. Right out of the box the thing didn't work. I couldn't believe it. You'd think a bass full of Nordy electronics would be flawless. Not the case. It just flat-out would not produce noise; period. Unless I hit the strings super hard, then it somehow would come to life for a minute, but the neck pup wouldn't work. Then, if I touched the bass knob, it would stop working for good. Hopefully it's in good hands...

They loaned me an SR1205 in the meantime to fill the void. This thing feels like a toy to me now. I keep wanting to reach for that high C!!

Some wire is lose or a bad printed circuit board. Rare to read of Ibanez QC issues. Was it a special order to your local music store? Online purchase? Used?
 
About a year ago or so, I scored a black 1997 SR-885 mij used for $250 with Seymour Duncan Basslines and stc-2p pre-amp..the body was cracked and fixed around the tone controls but it doesn't affect the sound at all.

I'd rate the sound as "good" and the playability as "awesome". It's lightyears better to play than the Fender 5s I played.

I'm not really a fan of the more entry level model soundgears, honestly, especially the four string ones. In general, I prefer Fender 4 string basses to Ibanez ones.
 
Some wire is lose or a bad printed circuit board. Rare to read of Ibanez QC issues. Was it a special order to your local music store? Online purchase? Used?

Nope, she was brand new in the box when I got it from Long & McQuade here in Ontario, Canada. The manager literally cut the tape on box in front of me, and I was the first one to touch it.

I opened the cavity up, and when I touched one of the contacts on the EQ bypass switch, it would make some really harsh noises. I flipped that switch up and down repeatedly, and the neck pickup magically came to life for a minute... :confused:

It was one of the strangest problems I had ever encountered with a guitar. And I've installed a set of solderless EMGs in my Gibson Les Paul studio. Trust me, that's saying something. :p

Either way, it's in their shop now. If they can't fix it, it's going back to the manufacturer.
 
Turns out they gave me an SR5XXV on loan (1205e Premium 25th anniversary edition). I've fallen in love with this thing. I actually e-mailed the store manager asking him if I can just make a swap on it for the one in the shop.

It's used, the bass pot is missing a knob on the eq, and the strings are COMPLETELY dead, but it fits me like a glove. The padauk top looks fantastic. I dig it more than the ovangkol.

$1,200 vs $895 and I've already put $700 down, I think I'd like this thing a lot more. I think the 5er was right for me all along, and I'm kinda glad this happened. :D
 
Turns out they gave me an SR5XXV on loan (1205e Premium 25th anniversary edition). I've fallen in love with this thing. I actually e-mailed the store manager asking him if I can just make a swap on it for the one in the shop.

It's used, the bass pot is missing a knob on the eq, and the strings are COMPLETELY dead, but it fits me like a glove. The padauk top looks fantastic. I dig it more than the ovangkol.

$1,200 vs $895 and I've already put $700 down, I think I'd like this thing a lot more. I think the 5er was right for me all along, and I'm kinda glad this happened. :D
Photos! And there's a lot to be said for some mellowed older strings, IMO. Especially on a bass that really feels right.

What did they say on the exchange?
 
Any of you Ibby experts understand their naming conventions/nomenclature for various models?

My ESP is getting long in the tooth and I'm probably going to dive into the Ibanez line with an SR500. The suffixes (PB, etc.) throw me off somewhat; are these just referring body/neck material or is there some other way of figuring that out?
 
Any of you Ibby experts understand their naming conventions/nomenclature for various models?

My ESP is getting long in the tooth and I'm probably going to dive into the Ibanez line with an SR500. The suffixes (PB, etc.) throw me off somewhat; are these just referring body/neck material or is there some other way of figuring that out?

There are several different models. The only real consistency I can think of is the last number on the model number. if it ends in a 0 its a 4 string 5 its a 5 and 6 its a six string.

The SR's are probably the most popular models but there are many variations of those, SRA, SRX, SR most people hold the belief that anything over a 500 is a pretty solid bass. It's a safe bet but there are some sub 500 basses that are pretty great too.

If you can buy used, going to save you a lot unless you absolutely have to have new.

Either way welcome to the party. Ibanez makes some truly excellent basses for not a huge amount of money.
 
Photos! And there's a lot to be said for some mellowed older strings, IMO. Especially on a bass that really feels right.

What did they say on the exchange?

They were great with the exchange. The store I got it from is a giant chain in Canada, and they basically said as long as you're happy, and that's what want, then no problem. He did all the math, deducted my already paid installments, interest, taxes, and so on, and got me a good price. Knocked $50 off it to make it $850.

For this reason, I will be a lifelong shopper at their store. I've bought 2 guitars and 2 basses at this store, and never had an issue. They may have lost $400 on a sale, but as long as I was happy, that's all they cared about.

It's funny, it looks like it has been extremely well played for the less than a year old that it is. Glossy wood where the wrist rest is, and below the strings where fingers would be, but there is not a scratch on it anywhere to be found. Not even one little knick on the back from any belt wear. Neck has been nicely broken in.

I'll take some pics when better lighting permits. :)

And C2C, I believe suffixes usually refer to wood types. I had an Ibanez S series guitar last year that I got rid of (also from the same store!), and it was an S670PB. The PB standing for the top wood of the guitar; Poplar Burl. You'll quite often see QM for quilted maple, PB for poplar burl, BM for burl mahogany.

If you have any doubt, check out this handy list right Ibanez Wikia. :)

http://ibanez.wikia.com/wiki/List_of_suffixes_used_for_model_names

Cheers guys. Excited to have this one in my stable.
 
Any of you Ibby experts understand their naming conventions/nomenclature for various models?

My ESP is getting long in the tooth and I'm probably going to dive into the Ibanez line with an SR500. The suffixes (PB, etc.) throw me off somewhat; are these just referring body/neck material or is there some other way of figuring that out?

It's very simple :)

1. First is the series acronym: SR / BTB / ATK / etc.

2. Second is the model number (digits): 200 / 205 / 300 / 305 / etc. If it ends with "5" then (usually) it's a 5 string bass. If it ends with "0" it's a 4 string model. For ex: SR500 = 4 strings; SR505 = 5 strings.

3. Third and last, a bunch of letters. These refer to the instrument's top / colour and/or finish. For ex: PB = poplar burl top, QM = quilted maple, AM = amber, BSF = brown sunburst flat, etc. These however are not part of the intrument's series model number - for ex: SR700 is the model number; CN or AM is just the colour. There's one exception though: if you see the letter M after the model number, it means that instrument has a maple fretboard. So for ex: if you want a SR500 with maple fretboard, the model is SR500M.

I hope it helps and sorry I couldn't explain it better :)
 
I just want an excuse to post up a picture of my SR205. It's a piece of junk that plays pretty good due to a good set up.

Photoshoot-2-2009-2-1024x685.jpg


Don't worry about giving me a number. Like Groucho Marx said "I don't care to belong to a club that accepts people like me as members."