The Squier Mini Precision Bass Club

[GrahamNN3]

Which brand of tapewound strings would be closest to fitting? I’ll do what I’ve got to do to extend the string length behind the bridge, but I’d like to find the shortest winding possible for some nylon tapes. My Bronco already has flats so I want a bit different flavor from my little P.

Pyramid made me some bespoke Tapewound strings - post #600 & #610, the price may have gone up by 5% since I posted.

 

[Diver]

Again, that depends on how you define "working":

If you don't mind having the fat part of the string wrapping around the tuner post - and many people don't - any short scale strings will work.

If you insist on having the taper only wrapping around the tuner post - and many people do - your choices become limited. Here, a ball to taper length of between 30" and 31" is what "works". Ibanez Mikro (except for the G), and custom wound, are the only options I'm aware of.

Here are Ibanez Mikro strings (except for the G, which is a straight 045 nickel roundwound) on a Mini P. Note where the tapers are:
View attachment 4011670

EDIT: PS - The strings that come stock on a Mikro are not the same strings that Ibanez sells as replacements.

Thanks for clarifying. By "working", I mean not using tricks and preferably without the thick part of the string wrapping around the tuning post.
Si if I understand correctly, outside of the 5250 Fenders, no set available on the market, currently fits this bass without going the custom route or having to use the tricks mentioned above?

Thanks Dave! My Bass is still apart.. I have most of my parts except USPS seems to have lost my Nordstrand Blade P pickup ( hope they find soon) and I am waiting on a Zebra Wood pickguard that should be here by the end of the week or Monday..My friend found a guy On ETSY that he sent his pickguard to so he will have a template if ours turns out good..Here is his ETSY store for anyone that might want a custom wood pickguard..He is only charging $64 -$69..Not bad. He doesn't have them up on his page but I'm sure anyone can message him about it.

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View attachment 4000634

That looks so good, every time I see your bass mod, I go visit his site, but I cannot justify putting almost half the bass price into the pickguard... I will probably switch the anodized aluminum Pickguard on my "Texas Tea colored" Fender Jazz Ultra in for this style of zebrawood pickguard.

 

[HaphAsSard]

I read on a string vendor site last night that Thomastik shorts are 35.5" ball to silk.

I'm wondering whether it was an error, but their info on other brands which they sell matched what my own experience and research had already told me.

As far as the only bass string by Thomastik-Infeld I have experience with - a single Jazz flat "short-scale" low E JF32106 - the 35.5" winding length figure is accurate. They really are medium-scale strings in all but name.

 

[DavesnothereCA]

Thanks for clarifying. By "working", I mean not using tricks and preferably without the thick part of the string wrapping around the tuning post.

So if I understand correctly, outside of the 5250 Fenders, no set available on the market, currently fits this bass without going the custom route or having to use the tricks mentioned above? ....

~
I do not recall those being mentioned earlier.

Are they a proper fit for the Mini-P ?

Fender's site does not specify the wrap length.

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~

 

[Volker Kirstein]

Thanks for clarifying. By "working", I mean not using tricks and preferably without the thick part of the string wrapping around the tuning post.
Si if I understand correctly, outside of the 5250 Fenders, no set available on the market, currently fits this bass without going the custom route or having to use the tricks mentioned above?...

Ibanez Mikro strings fit perfectly, except for the G, which is cut too short. I used a Stagg 045 nickel roundwound for the G.

 

[Volker Kirstein]

~
I do not recall those being mentioned earlier.

Are they a proper fit for the Mini-P ? ...

Kinda. The stock strings have the fat part of the E string on the tuner post. Since they're plain ol' roundwounds, there is no technical reason not to do so, it's purely personal aesthetics.

 

[DavesnothereCA]

Kinda. The stock strings have the fat part of the E string on the tuner post. Since they're plain ol' roundwounds, there is no technical reason not to do so, it's purely personal aesthetics.

~
Meh.
~

 

[pcake]

Si if I understand correctly, outside of the 5250 Fenders, no set available on the market, currently fits this bass without going the custom route or having to use the tricks mentioned above?

no, the 5250 fenders won't fit without the fat wrap ending up on the tuner, either.

 

[GrahamNN3]

So if I understand correctly, outside of the 5250 Fenders, no set available on the market, currently fits this bass without going the custom route or having to use the tricks mentioned above?

I don’t think the 5250 Fenders fit.

I think the bespoke options are -

Pyramid (Germany) will make bespoke length flatwound & tapewound strings.

I sent an email - they responded promptly in English - I gave them the measurements, they sent a pro former invoice by email.

I paid by PayPal, which did the currency conversion. The strings arrived about 14 days later.


Newtone (UK) will make bespoke length Roundwound strings.

 

[Bass-jay]

Hi Wot sort of string hights are ya setting the mini p at and should I have some neck relief on it. pretty flat atm I have 40/95s on it. Pretty new in bass world Cheers

 

[Diver]

Hi Wot sort of string hights are ya setting the mini p at and should I have some neck relief on it. pretty flat atm I have 40/95s on it. Pretty new in bass world Cheers

I do the same as I do for a regular bass, meaning that I check the relief by placing a capo on first fret, pressing on the first fret that goes over the neck pocket (12th -14th) and then I check for that little paper thin gap in the middle of the neck. If too flat or bowing up, I give it relief, 1/8th of a turn at a time if too much relief (bowing down) I tighten the truss rod...1/8th turn at a time. you can find plenty of videos online that show you the little observational and technical skills you must develop to "feel it" right.

After that I lower the bridge saddles low enough so that the strings have a (somewhat) consistent height along the neck while keeping a compromise with the buzzing induced from lowering the saddles too much, all while plucking as usual.

I noted that after that, I like the action on this bass higher than normal, probably due to the fact that the strings are "floppier" than a regular scale and therefore vibrate further out.
Sorry if you were looking for a number, I long stopped using factory recommendations as, to me, every bass is a bit different and numbers recommended were either impossible to get to or would not result in the desired setup.

This is all assuming that the nut is slotted properly.

 

[Bass-jay]

I do the same as I do for a regular bass, meaning that I check the relief by placing a capo on first fret, pressing on the first fret that goes over the neck pocket (12th -14th) and then I check for that little paper thin gap in the middle of the neck. If too flat or bowing up, I give it relief, 1/8th of a turn at a time if too much relief (bowing down) I tighten the truss rod...1/8th turn at a time. you can find plenty of videos online that show you the little observational and technical skills you must develop to "feel it" right.

After that I lower the bridge saddles low enough so that the strings have a (somewhat) consistent height along the neck while keeping a compromise with the buzzing induced from lowering the saddles too much, all while plucking as usual.

I noted that after that, I like the action on this bass higher than normal, probably due to the fact that the strings are "floppier" than a regular scale and therefore vibrate further out.
Sorry if you were looking for a number, I long stopped using factory recommendations as, to me, every bass is a bit different and numbers recommended were either impossible to get to or would not result in the desired setup.

Cheers diver I’ll check the relief hight tomorrow then start lowering. I wasn’t sure if mini liked to sit bit higher. Thanks bud

 

[DavesnothereCA]

....This is all assuming that the nut is slotted properly.

~
NUT ?

Who said NUT ?!

But yes, regardless of what nut width you may prefer, when it comes to doing setups, the rules remain the same.

And one of them is to slot the nut to the correct depth, meaning that the action of the open strings at the first fret should not be much higher than the action at the second fret with the strings held at the first fret by a capo or your fingers.

I usually check, and deepen the string slots of the nut if necessary, towards the end of the other steps of a setup, rechecking intonation afterward.

If a previous setup has already properly dealt with this step on a stringed instrument, it might never be necessary again.
~

 

[Diver]

~
NUT ?

Who said NUT ?!

But yes, regardless of what nut width you may prefer, when it comes to doing setups, the rules remain the same.

And one of them is to slot the nut to the correct depth, meaning that the action of the open strings at the first fret should not be much higher than the action at the second fret with the strings held at the first fret by a capo or your fingers.

I usually check, and deepen the string slots of the nut if necessary, towards the end of the other steps of a setup, rechecking intonation afterward.

If a previous setup has already properly dealt with this step on a stringed instrument, it might never be necessary again.
~

I always assume the nut is properly slotted, you should try that

 

[pcake]

I always assume the nut is properly slotted, you should try that

mine wasn't even close.

 

[J Posega]

Since they're plain ol' roundwounds, there is no technical reason not to do so, it's purely personal aesthetics.

I’ve had too-long rounds break at the tuning peg because the fat part of the string wound on and would slip out of tune more easily before they broke.

 

[Volker Kirstein]

I’ve had too-long rounds break at the tuning peg because the fat part of the string wound on and would slip out of tune more easily before they broke.

There's always exceptions. Always. I've had a generic El Cheapo fresh-from-the-bag E string break at the tuner post, as well.

Still, roundwounds are generally more tolerant of being wrapped around the tuner post than flats.

I do not advocate doing this; I prefer only the taper around the post.

 

[DavesnothereCA]

I always assume the nut is properly slotted, you should try that

~
I've been assuming things all of my life, and look where it got me !

JK
~

 

[DavesnothereCA]

Pyramid made me some bespoke Tapewound strings - post #600 & #610, the price may have gone up by 5% since I posted.

~
I learned a new word !

And at MY age ?

Looked up the term and read a huge article about mens' suits, but I got the gist of it.
~

 

[MakoMan]

I have a pretty good feeling that the nut on the Mini P is like that of most of the budget Asian made instruments. Some almost fall off the minute you remove the strings, while others are difficult to remove. Most will be somewhere in the middle.