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The Squier Mini Precision Bass Club
- Thread starter sabre79
- Start date
These are the strings I use on my fretless Squier Bronco Bass and Mini bass.
GHS "PRESSUREWOUND" Strings, 40-96 light, 7700
It cuts the excessive fingering noise when changing frets compare to the standard zingy round-wound strings. I've been using them for a long time, for over a year without changing strings. They are a little priced up than an average set of bass strings, but they can last very long, nothing snapped out. To be honest, I can recommend these strings. They're very versatile from pop to metal music.
Well well well lookie here a new finish
It may look better with a golden aged stain on the maple neck with a tortoise red replacement pickguard, the early 1960s vibes. I may order another Mini in this color if there's a good discount deal.
i've spent most of the past 2 days reading this forum, but I'm still at page 50 and can't find the information I'm looking for.
just bought the mini P and I am looking to use labella flats, I love their flats and use it in my basses (medium scale squier P bass which is my main bass, and fender mustang MIJ).
I know labella makes specialty sets for the mini P, but it's not available in my country, and importing it from the US will cost around 100usd, almost half the price of what I paid for the bass itself. however, the short scale Deep Talkin Flats, the 760 FL-S (043, .060, .082, .104), is available and cost under 50usd.
my question, is there anyone here using labella 760 FL-S, or know someone from this forum who uses this for their mini P?
just bought the mini P and I am looking to use labella flats, I love their flats and use it in my basses (medium scale squier P bass which is my main bass, and fender mustang MIJ).
I know labella makes specialty sets for the mini P, but it's not available in my country, and importing it from the US will cost around 100usd, almost half the price of what I paid for the bass itself. however, the short scale Deep Talkin Flats, the 760 FL-S (043, .060, .082, .104), is available and cost under 50usd.
my question, is there anyone here using labella 760 FL-S, or know someone from this forum who uses this for their mini P?
The strings you bought are too long. They're for 30" basses, not 28.6". And Labella strings will break if you wrap the metal string around the tuner. That's why they make a special set for the Mini P that only wraps the silk around the tuners.
Chromes can wrap around but I wouldn't risk a set of Labellas.
Thomann sells the right Labellas and they deliver worldwide afaik.
Or just use Chromes for 30" scale and they'll work perfectly without breaking.
Chromes can wrap around but I wouldn't risk a set of Labellas.
Thomann sells the right Labellas and they deliver worldwide afaik.
Or just use Chromes for 30" scale and they'll work perfectly without breaking.
I recently bought a squire mini p bass on FB marketplace for $75 essentially brand new for my 5 year old. I honestly thought it was going to be like a toy until I held it and played with it. It is a real bass!
and actually very convenient to keep out next to my office desk for quick access to fiddling around with basslines. I decided I wanted to give it an overhaul to make a legit player. I'm going to upgrade the pickups, wiring harness, etc....BUT, I recently bought a Hipshot A style bridge that accommodates both string-thru body and top load bridge designs. This had me thinking, should I get my local luthier to drill some through-body holes? Like the old Fender P-bass Jr. I think it would open up the options of strings I could use and give a little bit more of tighter, responsive feel. Anyone have any experience with this?
thank you for your suggestion
I asked the labella retailer whether LTF short scale will fit, he guarantee me it will not break, he even offered to set up the strings, so I said yes because there is no risk of me losing any money. he was right, it doesn't break, at least for now, 2 days after the the set up. however I would not suggest this.
the size of this bass combined with the low tension of labella LTF makes this the perfect couch bass for noodling. here it is alongside my other P, medium scale squier MIJ
but I feel that the E string is too close to the edge of the fretboard. is it only me or anybody else feel the same?
In case you missed it (or were unaware from earlier in the thread), I worked with LaBella to develop a set of flats specifically for this bass when it was launched. It was a special run, at first, but I believe that they have added the set to their standard line and that they are still available. They aren't LTFs, but they're LaBella flats all the same. They fit perfectly and eliminate the issue of having the string wrapped around the tuning post....just in case anyone was not aware that these strings exist from our discussion here a few years ago.
Not sure it will help you, but I've never had a problem with strings breaking when the "fat part" is wrapped around the post. First I was told that I didn't have a problem because I only used round wounds and they are not as prone to breaking. For about 5 years I never had a problem. Then I switched to flats, and after over 20 years I've still never had a problem.
Not saying no one will experience a broken string, not invalidating anyone else's experience, I'm only saying that in my experience, the frequency of strings breaking because of being wound around the post is very low.
Here's a pic of my 20+ year old strings. They are Pyramid Gold flats. And yes, the bass is not a Mini-P, but the posts are about the same.
I've never ((yet!) had a string break even when winding on beyond the silk. I go very slowly, and give the string a little while to adjust between small turns on the tuner.Not sure it will help you, but I've never had a problem with strings breaking when the "fat part" is wrapped around the post. First I was told that I didn't have a problem because I only used round wounds and they are not as prone to breaking. For about 5 years I never had a problem. Then I switched to flats, and after over 20 years I've still never had a problem.
Not saying no one will experience a broken string, not invalidating anyone else's experience, I'm only saying that in my experience, the frequency of strings breaking because of being wound around the post is very low.
Here's a pic of my 20+ year old strings. They are Pyramid Gold flats. And yes, the bass is not a Mini-P, but the posts are about the same.
View attachment 7422775
Labella flats have a different core shape than other flats like Chromes. I can never remember which one is which, hex or round, but one may break or unravel and the other doesn't.
For the same reason Labella makes special sets for basses that are strung through the body, like traditional Mustangs or SCPBs.
They explicitly warn against wrapping the string on the tuner to avoid returns and complaints. Same thing with bending the string and cutting it after the bend during installation. It's good practice with flats.
How often string damage actually occurs is another matter.
For the same reason Labella makes special sets for basses that are strung through the body, like traditional Mustangs or SCPBs.
They explicitly warn against wrapping the string on the tuner to avoid returns and complaints. Same thing with bending the string and cutting it after the bend during installation. It's good practice with flats.
How often string damage actually occurs is another matter.
Seems normal to me but I'd have to see straight on pics of the nut and the end of the board.
If the nut has not been installed off center (common with cheapies but more common with MIMs), which compounds as you go up the frets and requires a new nut, it may be due to the bridge being misaligned.
Either way you can correct it somehow by loosening the strings (with a capo at the 1st), loosening the neck screws, tilting the neck in the appropriate direction and holding it there while you retighten the screws. Then tune back up.
It's standard practice with bolt-on necks.
The skeptical person who has worked alongside the marketing department at our company wonders if they make these suggestions and special length strings partly in an effort to gain more business. Not that I think it's dishonest, but perhaps an enhanced level of caution can help steer people toward "special" strings that their competitors don't have. I do like LaBella strings, and I have them on some of my basses. I also have found their customer service to be quite good, and I really appreciate that they made special length strings for the Mini P.
Related - I don't like having any full-diameter wrap on my pegs. From a practical side, it changes the tuning ratio, so that a small input on the knob makes a larger change on the string than it would with smaller diameter wire on there. And from an aesthetic side, I just hate the look. I'm also picky in that I don't like string trees holding down on strings either, and would only own tilt-back headstocks if I had my druthers.
All that to say, I have my own peccadilloes. Do what you feel is best for you.
I bought a cheap Guyker high-mass bridge with the three grooves on each saddle for string spacing, and it's a little better but still not great.
John
I bought a cheap Guyker high-mass bridge with the three grooves on each saddle for string spacing, and it's a little better but still not great.
John
Did the Guyker line up with the factory screw holes?I bought a cheap Guyker high-mass bridge with the three grooves on each saddle for string spacing, and it's a little better but still not great.
John
Hello fellow Mini P-ers! At the moment I have shortend Thomastik strings on my mini, these strings are my favorite strings on longscale and on the mini, they stay in tune and sound nice but the tension is way to low. I'm considering to buy the special mini P LaBella's does anyone of you know if those strings will have a higher tension then my Thomastiks?
Thanx!
PBass
Thanx!
PBass
