Hi - which shipping option did you select?Day 3 of Np being stuck in UK customs, hoped its debut at the gig on Saturday would be safe, but appears very unlikely now
Why don't things just work the way they used to?
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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society
- Thread starter kranahan
- Start date
Just the standard First Class - given how much the exchange rate and VAT costs were already hammering us, I just didn't want to spend the extra £25, and off past experience shipping time didn't really vary much between the two, at least a few years ago, particularly after it reaches the UK.
Regret it now
The sole purpose of the transformer is for the D.I. output, it is not present in the 1/4" output signal. It provides impedance matching and converts the unbalanced signal to a balanced output.
Thank you!! Not an EE so I am not sure about the inner workings.
Question about the required current to operate the Neptunium correctly. I'm very new to understanding how pedalboard power works. I have a board with a CIOKS DC5 attached. It has two plugs that list 300, and three that list 100. To power the Neptunium I need at least 400. I can get a parallel adapter to use two of those plugs for the Neptunium to get to 400. Do I need to use both the 300 plugs, or can I use a 300 & 100 plug to get to 400? The plugs can also go 9/12. Should both plugs be set to 9 or 12, or does it matter?
Thanks for any help with this.
Thanks for any help with this.
- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,636
- Disclosures
- John K Custom Basses
i recommend at least a 500ma power supply, and 600ma is even better and run it at 9V.
@TaylorJ you should be fine just using a single 300mA outlet at 9V. When I first got a Finally V2 all I had was a battery powered supply with a single 300mA/9V output, and a bunch of 100mA/9V outputs. The Finally never had an issue working off 300mA. I just checked my Neptunium with it and it kicked on just fine. From previous replies about the subject, the pedal only pulls the full amperage to warm up the tube and settles to a lower operating current after that. As long as your pedal isn't resetting while it's warming up you're good to go.
With 300mA it might take a minute or so to warm instead of 10-15 seconds. I always powered my board, plugged in the instrument cables to the bass and amp, tuned, etc. BUT as the product details recommend and as @johnk_10 has said, a more powerful supply might be in order.
Input voltage shouldn't make a difference (as long as it's 9 or 12) - it's stepped up to high voltage internally.
Regarding a plug to combine them, I don't know how it works with different amperages, but you should definitely run them at the same voltage. Additionally, as you step up the voltage on those supplies, they typically reduce amperage.
edit: my cheapo battery supply - nothing special, but handles a single tube pedal without issue https://www.amazon.com/lotmusic-Isolated-Rechargeable-overcurrent-Protection/dp/B09MTKLN62
With 300mA it might take a minute or so to warm instead of 10-15 seconds. I always powered my board, plugged in the instrument cables to the bass and amp, tuned, etc. BUT as the product details recommend and as @johnk_10 has said, a more powerful supply might be in order.
Input voltage shouldn't make a difference (as long as it's 9 or 12) - it's stepped up to high voltage internally.
Regarding a plug to combine them, I don't know how it works with different amperages, but you should definitely run them at the same voltage. Additionally, as you step up the voltage on those supplies, they typically reduce amperage.
edit: my cheapo battery supply - nothing special, but handles a single tube pedal without issue https://www.amazon.com/lotmusic-Isolated-Rechargeable-overcurrent-Protection/dp/B09MTKLN62
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Hi - if you go through the thread a page or two, you'll see my post on this. The Neptunium needs 400mA to run at 9V. But when warming up, it initially pulls around 600mA. My supply hard limits at 500mA so, it would recycle a few times under that draw before the pedal was warmed up - then it ran fine. I tried a 'regular' 400mA wall-wart supply and it would over-supply 600mA for a few seconds - so it started perfectly.
So I would say the two 300mA together would be best. If the Cioks can momentarily over supply, then a 300mA with the 100mA would work too.
Just out of curiosity I did a quick simultanious recording of the 1/4 inch and DI outputs for the neptunium. If I zoom in I can see a very slight difference in the waveforms, the DI track is "tighter," as in there's slightly less transients/harmonics from DCX getting through, but it's very small difference.
passive P bass with flats into Cali76 - DCX Preamp - Neptunium (HPF engaged, bass at 12, treble at 10.
1/4 inch buffered output:
DI transformer output:
passive P bass with flats into Cali76 - DCX Preamp - Neptunium (HPF engaged, bass at 12, treble at 10.
1/4 inch buffered output:
DI transformer output:
Hey guys! Just got my Finally v3 this past Monday and have been loving it for a few days now!
I do have a question for others who have one, and especially those with a 12AX7 in their Finally. I run it into the front end of my GK Legacy 212 Combo, and I have to have the level just below 9 o'clock and the gain knob around 10:30 in order to get some decent tube saturation and drive at unity gain so that the volume is the same whether it is bypassed or engaged. Even the slightest bump to the Level or Gain results in a substantial boost to the volume.
This is fine for at home playing, but I am hoping to gig with the DI, and the worry about it getting knocked into while in a gig bag or by my guitarist/vocalist is definitely there. I could tape over the knobs to keep them at a constant setting, but the pedal just looks too cool! Is everyone else's Finally knobs this sensitive?
I do have a question for others who have one, and especially those with a 12AX7 in their Finally. I run it into the front end of my GK Legacy 212 Combo, and I have to have the level just below 9 o'clock and the gain knob around 10:30 in order to get some decent tube saturation and drive at unity gain so that the volume is the same whether it is bypassed or engaged. Even the slightest bump to the Level or Gain results in a substantial boost to the volume.
This is fine for at home playing, but I am hoping to gig with the DI, and the worry about it getting knocked into while in a gig bag or by my guitarist/vocalist is definitely there. I could tape over the knobs to keep them at a constant setting, but the pedal just looks too cool! Is everyone else's Finally knobs this sensitive?
Just a thought - could the volume control setting for the 1/4" and the little one for the XLR be different? So that the 1/4" output is hotter and a little more affected by the tube?
I don't find either of my Sushi pedals (admittedly not a Finally) to be super sensitive with their knobs. No more so than the average pedal. Not sure why yours may be that way, but I find it important to keep track of settings in case of knobs getting moved in transport. I have a fine tip chalk marker which I use to leave little dots on my pedals noting where the knobs need to be; they are erasable with a bit of damp paper towel, but once they're dry, they hang around pretty well! Makes it very easy for me to keep track and make sure everything is where it needs to be.
Wonder if it depends on what you are hitting it with. I notice with active basses there is less play, but with passive basses it is not nearly as sensitive.
Here is my current recording setup
I'm looking for a second preamp for a different flavor than the Genzler
Maybe even used with the Genzler for added sauce.
I've been recommended the Underground Accelerator.
The More has been floated as well.
Thoughts?
I'm looking for a second preamp for a different flavor than the Genzler
Maybe even used with the Genzler for added sauce.
I've been recommended the Underground Accelerator.
The More has been floated as well.
Thoughts?
The UA will have more flavor than the MORE. The More, to me, just adds subtle tubiness and makes everything sound a tad more open and bigger. Subtle. I think the UA gives you a lot of that plus more flavor from the tube and EQ.
The UA is the most flexible, can be used as preamp, EQ, overdrive, boost, etc. But if you want *just* a preamp/DI, I would recommend the Grand Slampegg!
Thank you for the information!
I'm embarrassed to say that I have never actually looked at my pedals to see what they needed for power. I have one that says 200mA. I don't think I've ever plugged it into the 100mA? I guess it just wouldn't work? Or not work well? Is it safe to assume that a plug on the DC5 that gives 300mA could be split to two pedals that required 100mA & 200mA? As long as the two pedals don't require more power than the plug delivers it's fine? Is that how it works?
For the Neptunium specifically, it looks like the plugs on the DC7 provide 660mA at 9v for each plug. So I could just run one power cord from a DC7 to the Neptunium and it would run fine? Correct?
Thanks again!
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