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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

@Sushi Box FX I got the tubes to swap out in the UA (AT7 and AU7) to try and tame the grit using this for my upright bass. I've opened up the pedal but am not sure of the safest way to pull the tube(its pretty tight in there). What doyou recommend? Don't want to damage anything...
 
Well really happy that's all settled ! Now the only question is - is the Bassman a candidate for the special " hand done version " . To be blunt - I'm cutting my own throat here because anything in the "hand done " range is way out of my disposal income range however that one could be a real treat for those with the cake to afford it . Preorders start when ???? ...Kelly
hello my name is troublemaker.jpg
FU troublemaker.jpg


Go Figure.jpg

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@Sushi Box FX I got the tubes to swap out in the UA (AT7 and AU7) to try and tame the grit using this for my upright bass. I've opened up the pedal but am not sure of the safest way to pull the tube(its pretty tight in there). What doyou recommend? Don't want to damage anything...

Take about 6 inches of duct tape, and fold the sticky side over itself lengthwise. Work this strip around the tube near its base. Pinch the sides of the tape together and firmly but gently work the tube out of its socket.

You can use the same piece of tape to work the replacement tube into the socket, making sure you have the tube's pins properly lined up.

The tape works as sort of a primitive strap wrench.
 
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@Sushi Box FX I got the tubes to swap out in the UA (AT7 and AU7) to try and tame the grit using this for my upright bass. I've opened up the pedal but am not sure of the safest way to pull the tube(its pretty tight in there). What doyou recommend? Don't want to damage anything...
I've got skinny fingers, so it wasn't too much trouble for me to swap a tube by just gently rocking it back and forth until it worked its way out.
I used a small metal ruler with a hole at one end to push the new tube back down into the socket..
 
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Take about 6 inches of duct tape, and fold the sticky side over itself lengthwise. Work this strip around the tube near its base. Pinch the sides of the tape together and firmly but gently work the tube out of its socket.

You can use the same piece of tape to work the replacement tube into the socket, making sure you have the tube's pins properly lined up.
thanks for that tip! One other question - to achieve volume parity with the UA on, the master is dimed. Wondering if I should turn up the trim pot a bit to give me a bit more headroom, in case I want a bit of a boost? I'm assuming that the trim pot is blue inside the case, and clockwise is up?
 
@Sushi Box FX I got the tubes to swap out in the UA (AT7 and AU7) to try and tame the grit using this for my upright bass. I've opened up the pedal but am not sure of the safest way to pull the tube(its pretty tight in there). What doyou recommend? Don't want to damage anything...

@macmanlou's suggestion is excellent, I know a lot of people that use the same or similar method with success. I have a technique developed from inserting and removing more tubes in tight spaces than I ever thought I would in my life, and one of these days I'll finally make that video I said I would make showing how I do it, as explaining it just takes too many words.

Maybe tonight?
 
thanks for that tip! One other question - to achieve volume parity with the UA on, the master is dimed. Wondering if I should turn up the trim pot a bit to give me a bit more headroom, in case I want a bit of a boost? I'm assuming that the trim pot is blue inside the case, and clockwise is up?
Yes and yes. Trimpot is strangling the signal on the way out, clockwise will open it back up.
 
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Unfortunately Verellen didn't write a manual for the Meatsmoke pre so I'm starting from scratch on it. I like manuals too, and that's one thing I want to get better about, but hasn't happened yet.


Yup, I drafted a memo for management to review before sending off to the technical writing staff, they'll collaborate with engineering and marketing staff to get something together. Our office has synergy like crazy.

First stage of the filter is HPF, cutoff of 154Hz if my math is right. That's as far as I got before getting pulled into meetings and stuff. I'll double check that number and figure out the other filter as well later.

Seems like you blissfully forgot everything about ever checking up on the rest of the information regarding the HPF and LPF cut off points and roll off slope at the two cab sim filter position on the Record Out of the Smoke Signal preamp that I requested. :D

I don't blame you though, I am awful forgetful and easily distracted myself, and I have no doubt you have a lot to see to, but I would appreciate if you could give me the remaining part of the answer to my request at some point in the not too distant future. ;)
 
I finally got to play around with the Fluffy Kitten internal bias pots. After marking down the settings @Sushi Box FX set before shipping, I took the empirical route: twisting pots and using my ears to figure out how the four pots interact with each other. I was impressed with the range of sounds I could get and thought I'd share some soundclips here. In the audio below, I had the same loop going on (TC Ditto) and kept all external knobs fixed (gain/Bite at 9 o'clock, all eq knobs at noon) except for the volume/Rawr that I adapted to get the same input volume in my audio interface. So the different tones you hear are only from twisting the four bias pots. The first loop run is with the FK bypassed, the 2nd run is the "factory setting" from Mr. Box, and the remaining ones are some settings I found pleasing/useful. In Logic, the samples were volume-matched for similar RMS output, with no effects except 1-2 dB of limiting for listening purposes.
 
Seems like you blissfully forgot everything about ever checking up on the rest of the information regarding the HPF and LPF cut off points and roll off slope at the two cab sim filter position on the Record Out of the Smoke Signal preamp that I requested. :D

I don't blame you though, I am awful forgetful and easily distracted myself, and I have no doubt you have a lot to see to, but I would appreciate if you could give me the remaining part of the answer to my request at some point in the not too distant future. ;)
Crap. Yup, totally forgot, I apologize. My brain transitions often from blissful forgetting to stressful remembering. I'll see if I can get that done today.
 
I finally got to play around with the Fluffy Kitten internal bias pots. After marking down the settings @Sushi Box FX set before shipping, I took the empirical route: twisting pots and using my ears to figure out how the four pots interact with each other. I was impressed with the range of sounds I could get and thought I'd share some soundclips here. In the audio below, I had the same loop going on (TC Ditto) and kept all external knobs fixed (gain/Bite at 9 o'clock, all eq knobs at noon) except for the volume/Rawr that I adapted to get the same input volume in my audio interface. So the different tones you hear are only from twisting the four bias pots. The first loop run is with the FK bypassed, the 2nd run is the "factory setting" from Mr. Box, and the remaining ones are some settings I found pleasing/useful. In Logic, the samples were volume-matched for similar RMS output, with no effects except 1-2 dB of limiting for listening purposes.

Nice! I kinda like the second modified tone that is a lot lower gain than the other sounds.
Where do you even start with playing with 4 trim pots?! The interactive possibilities are mind boggling. lol
 
Nice! I kinda like the second modified tone that is a lot lower gain than the other sounds.
Where do you even start with playing with 4 trim pots?! The interactive possibilities are mind boggling. lol
Thanks! This setting is the lowest amount of grit I could get with the FK. Interestingly it increased the amplitude of the transients, even compared to the dry signal. Haha, yeah, four continuously varying parameters is a lot! But I quickly found that there is easily half of the parameter space that lets no signal through (completely choked) so it's not that vast to explore in the end.
 
Did my first gig last night with the UA with a replacement AT7 tube, running my Eminence EUB into a Genzler Magellan 350 and two Magellan cabs. Worked great at first, but part way through the first set the pedalboard shut down and I had to run direct into the amp. During the break, I isolated all of the pedals and it seemed to be the UA that was the problem (did the second set without the UA on the pedalboard and all was ok). Set it all up today and traced all of the cables and everything seems to be ok with the UA on the board. Hopefully it was just a fluke. The UA sounds great, brings a level of fatness and warmth to my sound without any grit.
 
Did my first gig last night with the UA with a replacement AT7 tube, running my Eminence EUB into a Genzler Magellan 350 and two Magellan cabs. Worked great at first, but part way through the first set the pedalboard shut down and I had to run direct into the amp. During the break, I isolated all of the pedals and it seemed to be the UA that was the problem (did the second set without the UA on the pedalboard and all was ok). Set it all up today and traced all of the cables and everything seems to be ok with the UA on the board. Hopefully it was just a fluke. The UA sounds great, brings a level of fatness and warmth to my sound without any grit.
@Sushi Box FX ^^^
 
@Sushi Box FX ^^^
Whole thing was really strange - the UA was still powered up, but couldn't get any signal from the pedalboard. Cables were all good, eventually took each pedal out of the chain one at a time and it was the UA that seemed to be the problem, even though it was still on. worked through all of the connections today and all looked ok and worked fine. Have another gig later in the week and will see what happens.
 
Did my first gig last night with the UA with a replacement AT7 tube, running my Eminence EUB into a Genzler Magellan 350 and two Magellan cabs. Worked great at first, but part way through the first set the pedalboard shut down and I had to run direct into the amp. During the break, I isolated all of the pedals and it seemed to be the UA that was the problem (did the second set without the UA on the pedalboard and all was ok). Set it all up today and traced all of the cables and everything seems to be ok with the UA on the board. Hopefully it was just a fluke. The UA sounds great, brings a level of fatness and warmth to my sound without any grit.
Well that's not the sort of thing I want happening. Can I ask what you were powering it with? Was power daisy chained with anything, and if so what? The vast majority of problems people have with my pedals are power-related, so that's always going to be the first thing I ask.

Reliability is a huge deal, making a pedal that sounds good only gets you so far if you can't trust the pedal to work 100% of the time, so if there's ever anything like this going on I absolutely want to know about it. Thanks for bringing it up and I hope it was just a fluke and doesn't happen again.
 
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