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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

@Sushi Box FX , have you added the tone stack bypass switch to the UA for July?
Oh solid question. I think so. The boards should be here soon so they'll be too late for the June batch, but as long as I can get them verified then they should be good to go for July.
 
I had time to experiment with the UA for a bit after finishing work. I am not a big fan of the Fender tone stack, which I consider to be a rather blunt instrument, and I am finding that the HPF complements it well....with the mids dimed and the treble "off", increasing the bass affects the entire low end and low mids (with a Q as wide as the Rockies), but setting the HPF around 55-60 effectively narrows the Q and makes for kind of a 1-way tilt eq.......such that bumping the bass (leaving mids at 10 and treble at 0) lifts everything between around 60 and 800 Hz.

If you didn't know this before your "experiment", good ear!

https://www.moustacheaudio.com/best-fender-amp-settings/#:~:text=The way that a Fender,least amount of gain lost.

I wonder if you would get a similar effect with the upper mids if you played with the treble control and a LPF.
 
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Thanks. I'll hold off ordering until I hear back that it's good to go.
Will the bypass switch be added to the hand-wired boards also?
That's the plan, yup. It was a tight squeeze, but I was able to get the board layout done with the bypass switch on the handwired boards as well.

This looks wonderful! But I agree it needs a bigger knob. Maybe something like a Fender Jazz bass volume knob would look more appropriate?
I'll have a to try a few out and see what I like the look of. For a single knob design the usual knobs certainly do look weirdly small and out of place.
 
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I've got a plugin set I've enjoyed using on various recorded tracks and mixes, the Soundtoys Radiator and Little Radiator. They're based on the Altec 1567A and 1566A respectively, tube-driven mixing consoles that got first put to use on Motown tracks and the like.

Experience says the software circuit sounds quite excellent on solo bass, guitar, etc as well as on busses and full mixes.

In case you run out of things to do, Señor, might be a fun one to investigate :D
 
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@Sushi Box FX I ordered a Slampegg Bee Pre X for the July Batch, and now I think that I also want to have the UA :D Is there an easy way to add this to my other order to not have the shipping twice (I'm from Germany btw)?
There isn't a super easy way to do it, but if you leave a note in your second order I can combine it with the first order and refund you the extra shipping cost.

I've got a plugin set I've enjoyed using on various recorded tracks and mixes, the Soundtoys Radiator and Little Radiator. They're based on the Altec 1567A and 1566A respectively, tube-driven mixing consoles that got first put to use on Motown tracks and the like.

Experience says the software circuit sounds quite excellent on solo bass, guitar, etc as well as on busses and full mixes.

In case you run out of things to do, Señor, might be a fun one to investigate :D
Running out of things to do is not a problem I have often :p The tricky thing about a lot of studio gear, especially vintage studio gear, is that a lot of the sound comes from the transformers. I know Lightning Boy has reverse engineered and cloned some transformers in working on old studio gear, which if I understand correctly is how he got started in the transformer business, but the need for transformers adds an extra cost and an extra level of complexity.

One of these days (when I run out of other things to do :p) I need to pick my mic preamp design back up. It's till on the list, but I have two lists, a simple list and a complex list. Simple list is things like existing preamps, which usually take 2-6 hours to get a prototype designed. Complex list is things that actually need some R&D time. There aren't a lot of things on the complex list right now, but Gondwana is on there, and I really really really want Gondwana. There was a development on that front at NAMM, I met someone that expressed interest in helping with the coding aspect of the design. We're still discussing details, but he has a lot more experience than me in that world, and I would love to have his expertise on the project as I quickly got in over my head trying to do it myself. Hopefully more on that to come.

EDIT: I just took a peek at the Altec 1567A schematic because I can't leave well enough alone, and I hate how simple it is. I don't need a tube mixing console, but dammit don't we all need tube mixing consoles?
 
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Mmkay, here's what I've got:

3x 12AX7, 1x 12AU7 (not an exact substitute for 6CG7, but close enough in my book). Same 5 inputs as the original, same 8 knobs as the original (5x channel level, master level, bass, treble). The original used socketed transformers so you could swap them out for a fixed "phono equalizer", but it would be a piece of cake to build both in and have a switch on each channel for selecting which one you want in the circuit, or maybe even a 3-way switch for a "bypass" option like you could get on the original by putting a jumper in the socket. I would probably talk to Lightning Boy to see what could be done about the output transformer, which is configurable for either 600Ω or 150Ω output, I would prefer to have it on a switch if both options were worth keeping. Naturally I would need a VU meter, so I would have to get that in as well.

This would be large enough to require a rackmount chassis like the original (most likely 2U, don't think it could go smaller and don't think it would need to go bigger), and would likely be at least $1k, depending on parts cost and how much labor it would need to assemble.

Disclaimer: I DO NOT HAVE TIME TO BUILD THIS RIGHT NOW. STOP MAKING ME THINK ABOUT THINGS.
 
Mmkay, here's what I've got:

3x 12AX7, 1x 12AU7 (not an exact substitute for 6CG7, but close enough in my book). Same 5 inputs as the original, same 8 knobs as the original (5x channel level, master level, bass, treble). The original used socketed transformers so you could swap them out for a fixed "phono equalizer", but it would be a piece of cake to build both in and have a switch on each channel for selecting which one you want in the circuit, or maybe even a 3-way switch for a "bypass" option like you could get on the original by putting a jumper in the socket. I would probably talk to Lightning Boy to see what could be done about the output transformer, which is configurable for either 600Ω or 150Ω output, I would prefer to have it on a switch if both options were worth keeping. Naturally I would need a VU meter, so I would have to get that in as well.

This would be large enough to require a rackmount chassis like the original (most likely 2U, don't think it could go smaller and don't think it would need to go bigger), and would likely be at least $1k, depending on parts cost and how much labor it would need to assemble.

Disclaimer: I DO NOT HAVE TIME TO BUILD THIS RIGHT NOW. STOP MAKING ME THINK ABOUT THINGS.
Would it make any sense to just strip it down to a single channel and call it a preamp?
 
Would it make any sense to just strip it down to a single channel and call it a preamp?
It would be doable for sure, but my reasoning behind wanting to do the whole unit (aside from coolness factor, of course) is that once you get the master gain section, tone controls, and output transformer in there, you have like 75% of the whole unit anyway, so why not add more channels? As a 5 channel unit it would be large, but as a 1 channel unit it would still be large. It would save money as a single channel since you only need one input transformer instead of four, so there is that benefit.

BUT IT'S ALL THEORETICAL SINCE I DON'T HAVE TIME TO DO IT ANYWAY.
 
I thought about that. There was a booth at NAMM that had a comically large knob as a display prop, and I asked if they had any for sale. They said it was unfortunately just a one-off for displays.

It looks like you can't go too comically large with the knob without blocking the vents. But it also looks like you could easily make the circuit board taller to move the knob up some.

You could add a dial plate:
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Or an obnoxious numbered knob!
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knob.png
dial.png
 
If you didn't know this before your "experiment", good ear!

https://www.moustacheaudio.com/best-fender-amp-settings/#:~:text=The way that a Fender,least amount of gain lost.

I wonder if you would get a similar effect with the upper mids if you played with the treble control and a LPF.

I hadn’t seen this exact link, but I certainly did understand how the Fender tone stack works and pretty much knew how the hpf would help fine tune it. I am sure a LPF would work in similar, inverse fashion for the other end of the spectrum, but I don’t want to boost the upper mids or highs so I’m good with just the LPF.
 

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