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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

One consideration is how you set the gain and the level. I grabbed some pics to show how I've used my DIY Space Heater, which is essentially the same circuit as the Finally... but without the DI. With modern amps most people set the gain to just below clipping, then adjust the master volume. With my Sushi pedals, I have a completely different workflow and I manage it like it's a tube amp with a gain and master volume.

1. With my knobs like this, it is virtually un-usable for me. Way too loud and everything clips. No one is happy:

View attachment 5207811

2. This setting gives me lots of tube gain/grit/mojo but is quiet enough that I can use it on just about any amp with no problem. If I need more volume I just turn up the level a little. If it gets too gritty then I keep the volume up but turn down the gain a little. This one is pretty dirty, but in a cool musical way.

View attachment 5207804

3. This one is probably my favorite setting for electric bass, it gives me the grit/grown/mojo/whatever and the just right amount of volume. If it's too loud, I just turn down the level a little first, then gain next if necessary.

View attachment 5207805

4. If I don't want much tube character at all, but I need lots of clean volume... I set it this way. Level up and gain down. This setting is good for my double bass (with the volume set at lowered more than in the picture). This setting works pretty well for driving a power amp that needs a preamp input level. If it is too loud, I only turn down the level knob. That keeps the output clean.

View attachment 5207807

5. This setting also works really well for double bass, as it gives a little character and good controlled volume. Just a nice balance. Sometimes I'll turn down both knobs if it sounds dirty or gritty on the double bass. Usually gain first, then level next.

View attachment 5207803


Hopefully that is useful to you?
Hasty,
I just purchased a Finally and a UA and I am learning to dial these pedals in. Love the sound! The ua has s running to the Finally and then into my amp ( Genzler ). If I am not careful with the level and gain settings I get a popping and crackling sound if I really dig in and play hard. Is this the sound you get when you are clipping your amp?
Thanks,
Rick
 
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If I am not careful with the level and gain settings I get a popping and crackling sound if I really dig in and play hard. Is this the sound you get when you are clipping your amp?

I don't have a great answer for that. Graceful clipping happens up to a point... after that it can sound pretty terrible. I bet someone here smarter than me knows the answer to that one.
 
Has anyone used a Sushi Box as a mic preamp (for voice)? It crossed my mind that maybe my More could be used as a mic tube pre for recording vocals.
I use mine for mic (Double Bass) all the time and it sounds awesome. Depends on the mic and how you're using it. I run a ribbon with an inline preamp and phantom power module (for the mic pre). I also run a couple of Remic condenser mics, Green and Red, through that same phantom power module into my particle accelerator and it sounds super fantastic. When I first built it up, I did test with a supercardoid dynamic mic and it sounded pretty good as well.

Here's the home-brew version with the mic input using the ribbon mic:
Buffer Phase Gig.jpg



If you're wanting to do something similar, you'll need something that has a transformer that lets you go from mic level balanced to instrument/line level TS. I heartily recommend the Lightning Boy Audio MC15 transformer for this type of project. And if you need phantom power inline I've had good lick with the Xvive phantom power module. It's a 1590A size box that can be recharged through a USB port.
 
Hasty, do you always use 12AX7 tubes in your DIY builds, or have you tried any others (12AU7, 12AT7, 5751)?
I like to mix it up. The lunchbox DI has a vintage 12AU7 and a built in HPF and they work well together. The 125B Space Heater box has a JJ 12AT7, The black box with the Space Heater and the James tone stack has a Psvane 12AT7, my HWUA has JJ 12AX7 I think? and the Particle Accelerator has a Psvane 12AX7 and I'm pretty happy with all of them.

Man I feel super helpful tonight! Unless I'm giving bad advice... then just disregard the last 12 hours.
 
I use mine for mic (Double Bass) all the time and it sounds awesome. Depends on the mic and how you're using it. I run a ribbon with an inline preamp and phantom power module (for the mic pre). I also run a couple of Remic condenser mics, Green and Red, through that same phantom power module into my particle accelerator and it sounds super fantastic. When I first built it up, I did test with a supercardoid dynamic mic and it sounded pretty good as well.

Here's the home-brew version with the mic input using the ribbon mic:
View attachment 5208444


If you're wanting to do something similar, you'll need something that has a transformer that lets you go from mic level balanced to instrument/line level TS. I heartily recommend the Lightning Boy Audio MC15 transformer for this type of project. And if you need phantom power inline I've had good lick with the Xvive phantom power module. It's a 1590A size box that can be recharged through a USB port.

I appreciate the detailed info :thumbsup:

Nice setup!
 
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I use mine for mic (Double Bass) all the time and it sounds awesome. Depends on the mic and how you're using it. I run a ribbon with an inline preamp and phantom power module (for the mic pre). I also run a couple of Remic condenser mics, Green and Red, through that same phantom power module into my particle accelerator and it sounds super fantastic. When I first built it up, I did test with a supercardoid dynamic mic and it sounded pretty good as well.

Here's the home-brew version with the mic input using the ribbon mic:
View attachment 5208444


If you're wanting to do something similar, you'll need something that has a transformer that lets you go from mic level balanced to instrument/line level TS. I heartily recommend the Lightning Boy Audio MC15 transformer for this type of project. And if you need phantom power inline I've had good lick with the Xvive phantom power module. It's a 1590A size box that can be recharged through a USB port.
Thanks Hasty...right now I am trying to learn how to drive these pedals. Really like the tone I am getting ...not thrilled about the crackling sounds I am getting. Maybe my signal is too hot? Using a passive bass though (W/Delano pickups+a tonestyler tone control). Thanks for your feedback and nice setup!
 
Fortunately, my MarkBass and Acoustic Inage heade have XLR inputs that feed the pre/EQ stage. Finally is last on my pedal board, so I'll send it's DI output to my heads' XLR input. Then, I'll use the heads' DI output to send to FOH.

It's not exactly the typical use-case for Finally. This solution only works because my MB amp head has an XLR input, presumably to support Alembic bass guitars and other bass pickups/mics that present a balanced output.

Yeah, the XLR input on Markbass heads is useful. I use it when I want my Ampeg PF-20T sound...but louder... I connect the XLR output from Ampeg to XLR input on Markbass...
 
Hasty,
I just purchased a Finally and a UA and I am learning to dial these pedals in. Love the sound! The ua has s running to the Finally and then into my amp ( Genzler ). If I am not careful with the level and gain settings I get a popping and crackling sound if I really dig in and play hard. Is this the sound you get when you are clipping your amp?
Thanks,
Rick

If you're going into the front of your Genzler amp, you may need to hit the pad button to make sure you aren't overdriving the front of the amp, or turn down the LEVEL knob a bit on the Finally.

I often run either my P or J into the Finally and into the front end of my Genzler Magellan 800 without the pad engaged and get really great tone and haven't had a problem with popping and crackling, but it's possible that the two pedals are a little too much for the input.
 
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thank you all for the help! I’m leanrint
Hasty,
I just purchased a Finally and a UA and I am learning to dial these pedals in. Love the sound! The ua has s running to the Finally and then into my amp ( Genzler ). If I am not careful with the level and gain settings I get a popping and crackling sound if I really dig in and play hard. Is this the sound you get when you are clipping your amp?
Thanks,
Rick

You have the genzler magellan head? You legit have the setup im about to grab an it’ll be my first tone shaping, od type pedal. I’m
Worrint about the clipping cause I was having issues with this weird issue myself a this wss without any pedal. I think mine was my bass “Spector euro 5 LT” but still would be good to hear more how it’s blending with the genzler im wanting to buy both pedals. UA> Finally but I just read “
As I am new to sushi “ the eqs dials are sensitive an work well. Which I love but they seem to have a eq that’s unique to the pedal? I also was told I might enjoy the slampeg for its tighter lows. An I do enjoy tightness but I have a feeling the Ua will have more focused highs a growl that cuts less disoriention more tuby sound. Hope I’m right about to put order in
 
If you're going into the front of your Genzler amp, you may need to hit the pad button to make sure you aren't overdriving the front of the amp, or turn down the LEVEL knob a bit on the Finally.

I often run either my P or J into the Finally and into the front end of my Genzler Magellan 800 without the pad engaged and get really great tone and haven't had a problem with popping and crackling, but it's possible that the two pedals are a little too much for the input.
Yes I think you are correct. I used the pad on the Genzler ,rolled back level and gain a bit and everything sounds great.
 
How does the PA stack up to UA? Just quick answer I don’t want to clog up thread lol just wondering cause they aren’t made anymore but people seem to love their PAs? Just wondering main diff i may buy one to stack with UA if nothing else.
 
IMHO the UA is more dynamic than the PA with a more detailed gain section for getting just the right amount of saturation grit plus it can get pretty crunchy at higher gain settings. The PA excels at clean tones but when pushed it is not as pleasant to my ear. I had a PAX but after getting one of the first run UA the PAX was sold, that is the only SBFX pedal I didn't keep.

I do have a PA minitube that was my 1st @Sushi Box FX pedal, used all the time for recording along with a Slampegg Bee mini tube and a Finally. .
IMG_20231002_150253616.jpg
 
I totally agree with @bassbrad

I love running the PA with the double bass because it's just a great clean tube preamp. For that reason I'll probably never get rid of it.

The UA is amazing for electric bass and really sounds good with both passive and active basses IMO. Just a nice, slightly hairy sound and tone for days.
 
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Thank you all I actually am just wanting the clean break up tuby sound. I doubt I push gain ever into true OD territory. Sounds like it would be better to just get the new UA.
I also want the one that’s more Eq sensitive as I love turning dials to get my tone. The cleaner alembic tone is what I want but it sounds like UA can do that an then some if I ever wanted. Just was curious what the PA was like an if I came across one would it be better to buy then UA.
 
Thank you all I actually am just wanting the clean break up tuby sound. I doubt I push gain ever into true OD territory. Sounds like it would be better to just get the new UA.
I also want the one that’s more Eq sensitive as I love turning dials to get my tone. The cleaner alembic tone is what I want but it sounds like UA can do that an then some if I ever wanted. Just was curious what the PA was like an if I came across one would it be better to buy then UA.

I genuinely think you would be pleased with the UA. It's really flexible. The tone stack is great, you can tweak the gain/level to your needs... and if there is too much grit then swap out the tube. I know everyone says that a lot around here... but it really does make a difference on the UA.

Another consideration. Every bass sounds just a little different, as do the amp heads, cabs, room, and everything else. You're allowed to have that holy grail idea of what your tone should sound like, however, don't be surprised if you change that expectation once you get used to the UA and decide you like something better when playing with others. When I first got the UA, I didn't like it as much as my space heater. But once I took the time to actually dial it in it's my go-to for EB.
 
that’s so wild to me that you’re following the same method and still clipping your amp input. I’ve never had an instance where I can’t find a setting where I can’t use any type of amplifier with the Space Heater format. The balance has always been there with the space heater (I have four of them in different janky configurations), my particle accelerator, or the UA. All of them work great.
Sorry you’re having this issue.

Is there any "tone", other than SS volume, in the level control on the Finally box? No interaction with the tube right?

The way I've got the trim pot turned down (barely on), here are clean and gritty settings that get me approx "unity" volume matches (using the "dry pass" and MB clip light as a meter of sorts):

Input gain setting on my MB LM250 remains constant for these two Finally setting:
IMG_20231003_142612572.jpg

Clean:
IMG_20231003_142322674.jpg

Gritty:
IMG_20231003_142601702.jpg

As you can see I can only turn the level knob up to 12:00 before it will clip my head. But of course I have my head input game knob set at 12:00 as well, so I could reduce my heads' input gain.

It's really a matter of gain staging theory at this point -- which preamp has more noise -- which preamp sounds better -- the SS output of the Finally box or the preamp on my MB head?

Then the other issue, with my current low trim pot setting, is that the Finally DI output is weak (at the above "unity" gain/level settings photos provided) and needs a whopping +35db of preamp gain from my board to get it to meter at a healthy -12dbfs.

So the fundamental problem with the Finally DI pedal, IMO, is that the 1/4" and XLR output levels are in two separate universes and nobody is happy with either.
 
So the fundamental problem with the Finally DI pedal, IMO, is that the 1/4" and XLR output levels are in two separate universes and nobody is happy with either.
If you still like the tone of Finally but want more flexibility, I could add an additional internal trimpot to yours for just the XLR output so you could attenuate one without affecting the other, if you would be willing to cover shipping cost.

The intention of Finally v2 is to have separate controls for each, but that's still at least 3 weeks away from a prototype, then it will have to be evaluated to determine if it's ready for production.