The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

[CH Design]

Thanks, I was aware of what truly flat on each was going in and set them there to start. Will do some messing around with the EQ of each when I get a chance.

Probably will grab an Elementary, and then a handwired version of whatever I like best after very scientific testing. The natural mid scoop both intrigues and scares me haha.

The scoop isn’t all that big if you don’t want it to be. I think mine is set around 5-10-2.5. That sounds huge with a big bottom and lots of clarity up top with just enough low mids cut to remove any of that boxiness you can get around 300Hz.

 

[PhishPhan22]

Get a seperate DI to use with the UA, IMHO a better solution.
@Sushi Box FX offers the very exc3llent Finally Tube DI with the LBA (Lightning Boy Audio) transformer whuch I use for almost all my recording. It is a perfect size and the right mix of an active DI with a quality transformer that is 9v powered. The gain circuit is the same as on the UA so you can double dip on the tube goodness going from crystaline to busted as you please.

For live I more often use my Radial JDI as that is the sound is a familiar sound and is virtually indestructable unlike my old Dietz DI with a Jensen tranz that lasted 3+ decades.

this is what I’m thinking. I don’t think I’ll need DI with many feature other then what the radial will offer. Especially since the one in my genzler Magellan head really has a solid DI built in. I’ve Hooked it up to a Scarlett an just PA speakers before an it is a goodn. But the DI pedal I get when decide to, shouldn’t need anything much like you mentioned. I might look at the More or whatver else might jsut come out but I think the UA an dialing that into my cabs should keep me happy for a little

 

[PhishPhan22]

Used them both flat only so far so more experimenting with the tonestacks are probably in order to truly get a feel of what both can do.

But to me the Slampegg has a tighter low end while still being full and the Ampeg signature is definitely there. The UA feels murkier down low to me but also has more highs in a way I didn’t like as much.

YMMV, both great. I run them into the front of a Genzler Magellan 800.

Aaahh I also have the Genzler 800 so how are you liking it with it? I was actually going for a UA but the clips of the slampeg aren’t bad at all. I’m going to a mroe alembic clean tone. I kinda like having a focused treble in the mix tbh along with the clean growl. The tight bottom end is Interesting to hear. I’m big on ghost notes so tight bottom is big, are they vastly that diff to that regard? An also I seem to like the almenic style but once heard slampeg an it’s hi lo switch kinda dug it. I just feel with the clips I liked having 9
O’clock gain tells me I prob won’t use that much gain which the Ua might be better for .

 

[PhishPhan22]

So when you run a preamp pedal “in front”
Is this the same as just running the input to pedal board or is this where you would run through one of the fx loop out?

 

[_Tay_]

So when you run a preamp pedal “in front”
Is this the same as just running the input to pedal board or is this where you would run through one of the fx loop out?

Going into the front of the amp you will still get the Amps "flavour". Going into the FX return by- passes the amps "flavour".

Currently I like to bypass my amps flavour

 

[Hasty]

So when you run a preamp pedal “in front”
Is this the same as just running the input to pedal board or is this where you would run through one of the fx loop out?

I’m one of those people that uses it either way.
Half the time I’m using it with a powered cab that has to have the increased signal strength of a preamp. So I get the higher input plus the flavor.

The other half of the time I don’t need the power, just the flavor. My amps and preamps are relatively flat so I don’t I just leave them that way and tweak from the UA.

 

[stefaniw80401]

Are all the Sushi box 1/4" outputs [designed to be] hot enough to drive a power amp? Or is that just on the Finally box?

I love the Finally box, but it clips my amp. I do not want to bypass my amp head tone stack by using the FX return. My amp has a great tone stack, and character knobs, plus it has an awesome, and variable, DI output.

Turning down the Finally internal trim pot helps some, but it also affects the DI to the point where now the DI output is too low for FOH or recording studio to be happy.

Should just I sell/trade my Finally box for something else? Can the 1/4" output on Finally be padded somehow? The "dry pass" switch feature makes no sense to me.

So which, if any, sushi box(es) have the tube, with gain knob, and an "instrument level" output? More? Can More drive the tube into saturation?

Basically what I want is Finally box to have the 1/4" output level be the same as its DI output level...that is preamp ready output.

 

[Sushi Box FX]

Are all the Sushi box 1/4" outputs [designed to be] hot enough to drive a power amp? Or is that just on the Finally box?

I love the Finally box, but it clips my amp. I do not want to bypass my amp head tone stack by using the FX return. My amp has a great tone stack, and character knobs, plus it has an awesome, and variable, DI output.

Turning down the Finally internal trim pot helps some, but it also affects the DI to the point where now the DI output is too low for FOH or recording studio to be happy.

Should just I sell/trade my Finally box for something else? Can the 1/4" output on Finally be padded somehow? The "dry pass" switch feature makes no sense to me.

So which, if any, sushi box(es) have the tube, with gain knob, and an "instrument level" output? More? Can More drive the tube into saturation?

Basically what I want is Finally box to have the 1/4" output level be the same as its DI output level...that is preamp ready output.

Most Sushi Box preamps have a hot enough output to drive a power amp as this is a common use for my pedals.

There isn't a built-in way to pad the 1/4" output on Finally, it would have to be modified.

The dry pass was added for users that want to continue using the preamp of their amplifier rather than feed a tube preamp into their amp's preamp. It is common for D.I. boxes to have a parallel 1/4" jack so the input feeding the D.I. can also be sent elsewhere.

The lowest output you'll find on any of my pedals is Slampegg Bee Pre. It can still get well above unity, but it isn't anywhere near as loud as the others. Typically preamp outputs are going to be line level, not instrument level.

More is a single gainstage, which means by itself it will never overdrive, it would have to be pushed by something else placed before it.

With the preamp bypassed on the 1/4" output (dry pass) you still get preamp affected XLR output to FOH or console, but you have an unaffected instrument level output that can be sent to a separate preamp or amplifier.

 

[ImTheOnlyOne]

For a bit I drove a Slampegg Bee into a dialed back More to warm effect. Going straight into an amp's return I would just turn up the More.

 

[Hasty]

Are all the Sushi box 1/4" outputs [designed to be] hot enough to drive a power amp? Or is that just on the Finally box?

I love the Finally box, but it clips my amp. I do not want to bypass my amp head tone stack by using the FX return. My amp has a great tone stack, and character knobs, plus it has an awesome, and variable, DI output.

Turning down the Finally internal trim pot helps some, but it also affects the DI to the point where now the DI output is too low for FOH or recording studio to be happy.

Should just I sell/trade my Finally box for something else? Can the 1/4" output on Finally be padded somehow? The "dry pass" switch feature makes no sense to me.

So which, if any, sushi box(es) have the tube, with gain knob, and an "instrument level" output? More? Can More drive the tube into saturation?

Basically what I want is Finally box to have the 1/4" output level be the same as its DI output level...that is preamp ready output.

One consideration is how you set the gain and the level. I grabbed some pics to show how I've used my DIY Space Heater, which is essentially the same circuit as the Finally... but without the DI. With modern amps most people set the gain to just below clipping, then adjust the master volume. With my Sushi pedals, I have a completely different workflow and I manage it like it's a tube amp with a gain and master volume.

1. With my knobs like this, it is virtually un-usable for me. Way too loud and everything clips. No one is happy:

2. This setting gives me lots of tube gain/grit/mojo but is quiet enough that I can use it on just about any amp with no problem. If I need more volume I just turn up the level a little. If it gets too gritty then I keep the volume up but turn down the gain a little. This one is pretty dirty, but in a cool musical way.

3. This one is probably my favorite setting for electric bass, it gives me the grit/grown/mojo/whatever and the just right amount of volume. If it's too loud, I just turn down the level a little first, then gain next if necessary.

4. If I don't want much tube character at all, but I need lots of clean volume... I set it this way. Level up and gain down. This setting is good for my double bass (with the volume set at lowered more than in the picture). This setting works pretty well for driving a power amp that needs a preamp input level. If it is too loud, I only turn down the level knob. That keeps the output clean.

5. This setting also works really well for double bass, as it gives a little character and good controlled volume. Just a nice balance. Sometimes I'll turn down both knobs if it sounds dirty or gritty on the double bass. Usually gain first, then level next.

Hopefully that is useful to you?

 

[_Tay_]

One consideration is how you set the gain and the level. I grabbed some pics to show how I've used my DIY Space Heater, which is essentially the same circuit as the Finally... but without the DI. With modern amps most people set the gain to just below clipping, then adjust the master volume. With my Sushi pedals, I have a completely different workflow and I manage it like it's a tube amp with a gain and master volume.

1. With my knobs like this, it is virtually un-usable for me. Way too loud and everything clips. No one is happy:

View attachment 5207811

2. This setting gives me lots of tube gain/grit/mojo but is quiet enough that I can use it on just about any amp with no problem. If I need more volume I just turn up the level a little. If it gets too gritty then I keep the volume up but turn down the gain a little. This one is pretty dirty, but in a cool musical way.

View attachment 5207804

3. This one is probably my favorite setting for electric bass, it gives me the grit/grown/mojo/whatever and the just right amount of volume. If it's too loud, I just turn down the level a little first, then gain next if necessary.

View attachment 5207805

4. If I don't want much tube character at all, but I need lots of clean volume... I set it this way. Level up and gain down. This setting is good for my double bass (with the volume set at lowered more than in the picture). This setting works pretty well for driving a power amp that needs a preamp input level. If it is too loud, I only turn down the level knob. That keeps the output clean.

View attachment 5207807

5. This setting also works really well for double bass, as it gives a little character and good controlled volume. Just a nice balance. Sometimes I'll turn down both knobs if it sounds dirty or gritty on the double bass. Usually gain first, then level next.

View attachment 5207803


Hopefully that is useful to you?

Number 3 (your favourite) is exactly how I have mine set. I did use number 2 for a short while and it sounded badass. Prefer it always on though.

 

[Hasty]

Yeah number 3 is pretty righteous. I feel like it puts everything in the most usable range and allows simple tweaks based on the room, the amp, the cab... just a good all around setting.

Number 2 is crazy but sounds super cool

Number 1 is really more of a nuclear option.

 

[Zbysek]

Number 3 (your favourite) is exactly how I have mine set. I did use number 2 for a short while and it sounded badass. Prefer it always on though.

I am more like No. 5

My Space Heater sits at the end of my signal chain though...

 

[stefaniw80401]

Thanks y'all for the above ideas on setting space heater (and finally). I already been rolling like that.

I think what I'm gonna do is set the Finally internal trim pot back to factory so at least the XLR DI output is healthy again -- and just ignore the 1/4" output jack on the Finally altogether. If I ever build a power amp rig then maybe the 1/4" output from Finally will be useful as a preamp.

Fortunately, my MarkBass and Acoustic Inage heade have XLR inputs that feed the pre/EQ stage. Finally is last on my pedal board, so I'll send it's DI output to my heads' XLR input. Then, I'll use the heads' DI output to send to FOH.

It's not exactly the typical use-case for Finally. This solution only works because my MB amp head has an XLR input, presumably to support Alembic bass guitars and other bass pickups/mics that present a balanced output.

 

[Hasty]

Thanks y'all for the above ideas on setting space heater (and finally). I already been rolling like that.

that’s so wild to me that you’re following the same method and still clipping your amp input. I’ve never had an instance where I can’t find a setting where I can’t use any type of amplifier with the Space Heater format. The balance has always been there with the space heater (I have four of them in different janky configurations), my particle accelerator, or the UA. All of them work great.
Sorry you’re having this issue.

 

[SoulReflection]

(I have four of them in different janky configurations)

Four of them? Can you define janky configurations? I have a problem reconciling the cost of four.

 

[bassbrad]

Four of them? Can you define janky configurations? I have a problem reconciling the cost of four.

It's easy to get more than one cuz it's so good. I currently have 2: from the 1st run that has a 12ax7mg tube in it for fretless and piccolo stuff ; a more recent hand wired on my main pedal board. I am considering another for my alternate board if a project happens or one resuscitates.
Not to mention my other @Sushi Box FX goodies.

 

[Hasty]

Four of them? Can you define janky configurations? I have a problem reconciling the cost of four.

LoL. They’re the DIY PCBs that Nathan was selling on his site. I wanted to experiment with a few different configurations for tube DI’s and this was a simple and cost effective way to do so because I had 75% of the parts necessary to build them up.
I’ve also got two of his Particle Accelerator PCBs and I never knew just how nice a circuit that was until I assembled my first one.

Here’s an assembly of most of them, which includes three Space Heater DIY PCBs, two Particle Accelerator PCBs, and a Nixie power supply, which was originally going to be a 48v phantom power supply but I haven’t gotten that deeply into it yet.

The lunchbox looking Space Heater is a preamp/DI box. Kind of a poor man’s Reddi. The white phase box is the Particle Accelerator with an XLR input and can also accept 3 1/4” inputs with separate input levels for each one. The Black one with gold sharpie is a space heater with a James tone stack and an XLR output.

I love to build stuff, but I apparently also like to hoard preamps. In addition to these I’ve got 3 or 4 FET based preamps I’ve built that have a circuit that is very close to the UA circuit.

All these boards sound amazing because Nathan really did his design homework, so it’s super easy for me to drop them into weird projects as if they’re a modular preamp.

oh and in case you’re wondering why I even have multiples… it’s because I always order PCBs in pairs because it’s more cost effective. Just in case I screw something up, it leaves me a backup. However these were so easy to assemble I didn’t mess any of them up.

 

[SoulReflection]

LoL. They’re the DIY PCBs that Nathan was selling on his site. I wanted to experiment with a few different configurations for tube DI’s and this was a simple and cost effective way to do so because I had 75% of the parts necessary to build them up.
I’ve also got two of his Particle Accelerator PCBs and I never knew just how nice a circuit that was until I assembled my first one.

Here’s an assembly of most of them, which includes three Space Heater DIY PCBs, two Particle Accelerator PCBs, and a Nixie power supply, which was originally going to be a 48v phantom power supply but I haven’t gotten that deeply into it yet.

View attachment 5208315

The lunchbox looking Space Heater is a preamp/DI box. Kind of a poor man’s Reddi. The white phase box is the Particle Accelerator with an XLR input and can also accept 3 1/4” inputs with separate input levels for each one. The Black one with gold sharpie is a space heater with a James tone stack and an XLR output.

I love to build stuff, but I apparently also like to hoard preamps. In addition to these I’ve got 3 or 4 FET based preamps I’ve built that have a circuit that is very close to the UA circuit.

All these boards sound amazing because Nathan really did his design homework, so it’s super easy for me to drop them into weird projects as if they’re a modular preamp.

oh and in case you’re wondering why I even have multiples… it’s because I always order PCBs in pairs because it’s more cost effective. Just in case I screw something up, it leaves me a backup. However these were so easy to assemble I didn’t mess any of them up.

Thanks for the explanation...I am impressed!

 

[Hasty]

Thanks for the explanation...I am impressed!

Thanks.

That Particle Accelerator box is probably my current favorite because I mainly play double bass and it lets me use a microphone. Plus it’s such a great circuit. I might also rehouse the black box with the Space Heater circuit into a microphone friendly box. Still haven’t decided.

one day Nathan might have a mental lapse and make a furthermore with an XLR input and a DI out. I’d probably be the first in line to buy that too.