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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society
- Thread starter kranahan
- Start date
I always link this. Blind test comparison of the Noble (minus the eq functions) vs a variety of DI’s. Get a good set of phones and see if it stands out to you. I know personally I bought a JDI after watching this video
When I got a Sadowsky preamp pedal 1000 years ago, I plugged it in at home and thought it was okay. I used it with my jazz bass on stage and instantly realized it fixed the things I thought were wrong with my live tone. Also, I could hear myself better at lower stage volume because my bass suddenly sat in the same space that I was listening for it. (I know, weird way to describe it.)
I have a digital model of the Nobel, and it does the same thing, but in a more “old school” way. Maybe more warmth and presence than punch and bite.
I took a leap of faith with my Slampegg, and my early conclusion is that it gives exactly the OD tones that a bunch of pedals sitting on my shelf didn’t. So, I'm hoping my Nobelium can replace it and let the Slampegg be my light drive pedal.
I have a killer digital board with Line6 and digital Darkglass stuff. But I’m old. What I really want is an analog board that still replaces my amp and does what I make my digital board do. We will see if the Nobelium can be the heart of that. I’m going to end up with a digital pedal or two on my analog board (poly blue octave and maybe my C4), but I won’t tell if you don’t.
Aaahhh I totallt forgot i read that thank you! I never though about hitting the fx loop
An putting having the pedal
Be before the power amp section. Maybe that would be a little better tone wise or just messing around with it to see? I got it just on my board first after my tuner. An an your saying bypass the eq an just use the gain an eq of the UA?
I think if you want mids you may consider adding is it the more? That’s two knobs an kinda goes with the Ua. Cause being just a tube satiation pedal you can leave the tone stack on an or cut it a then bring the signal down or up whichever. I’m not a mid lover I scoop an just like
To leave enough to growl a flat really tbh I love compressed treble im gettitn with the UA. So how does the Eq work on the UA? So boosting bass a treble is boosting an mids just flat is cut? A what an I missing by by by bypassing the tone stack? Is that just shutting of the eq of of the UA with the front switch? Tryin to learn all the tricks of this pedal.
I’m not against buying the more maybe cause I hate the onboard darkglass pre that came in my Spector Euro 5 LT. I’m wanting to get rid of it or swap dk yet I got it turned down where I’m letting thr UA be most my signal. Would the UA sound better out to the fx loop or would it be a noticeable
Diff then just being first in the pedal
Chain?
More is a single knob tube sweetener/boost. Perhaps you mean Finally, which is has gain/master vol, fixed defeatable HPF and DI but no eq? If you want to see what the passive tone stacks do to the freq curves, use this simulator. Select Fender 3 band for the UA (& the Dreamcatcher): TSC in the web
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I agree-especially considering it can show not only the how the passive Fender (UA, Dreamcatcher) tone stack works, but also HiWatt (Detective/Elementary) and Marshall (JC Emerald). I keep coming back to it. Referring to it while messing with the preamp is very helpful; it taught me what "works" and makes evaluating gear based on specs MUCH easier.
It will be fine. It may take a little longer to warm up than normal (probably around 10-20 seconds), but that should be the only "problem" you experience
I just went overkill with a 2A Joyo one. Enough for ~3 Sushi pedals and a non-tube pedal. Unfortunately, with 3 I get a lot of crosstalk between them depending on the pedals.
That being said, what power supplies are people using in here? The winning "preamp" combo for me right now is Slampegg -> Space Heater (eventually will be Grand Slampegg -> Finally v2, most likely), has anyone found a way to mitigate crosstalk should I want to add more to this? I've used 2 separate power supplies to try to mitigate it without much luck. Not sure if the tubes themselves are that sensitive to current/voltage changes in the supply side (excuse my ignorance of nomenclature here, not an electronics guy at all).
I have Space Heater on my large pedalboard together with 9 other pedals all powered by MXR ISO Brick. The board is dead-silent.
None of the other 9 pedals is a tube pedal, though...
None of the other 9 pedals is a tube pedal, though...
Cioks DC7 is a popular choice, and I believe that is what @Sushi Box FX normally uses when running these pedals.
Space Heater requires 500 mA for warm up. I power it with MXR Iso brick which provides only 450mA. I haven't experienced any issues...
I keep a Cioks DC7 on my personal board and it runs several tube pedals.
For bench testing I use a Coda Music 9V 1700mA supply, they run about $12 on amazon.
I'm using a Cioks DC7, with the 8 extension and a crux (high current module to power an Arkham oracle) I've got a Finally V2 and a UA as well as a markbass compressore and a black star dept 10tube boost as the tube pedals. I've also got a poly effects verbs that can be slightly temperamental with other power supplies and pedals etc. and a bunch of more ordinary pedals (chorus, fuzz, octave, envelope etc) and it all runs silently. I'd used cheaper power supplies for years and they'd powered everything ok, but getting the oracle prompted the search for something that can do the high current, and I have to say I was surprised by how much better all of the pedals sounded
Looks like it's going to be a busy weekend.
I've noted this "3D" effect with a couple different setups, and the MORE definitely has this a little bit. What are the electronics/physics behind this? Does it have to do with how the circuit treats the phase, etc? Why does a Noble/Nobelium/MORE do this, but not a B15 (that I've heard)?
Those cupcake knobs look really good on the Nobelium. Not something I would have ever considered before seeing this pic.
