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Thunderbird Club

#22,481
tastelikedirt said:
Wet the wood in the holes, it will swell the compressed parts back out and grip the replacement bushings better, no need for epoxy this time

Thanks! Does it need to dry? Will it swell and stay swollen after it dries? Or should I soak them, give them some time and then put the bushings back in when things are still damp?
Click to expand...

If you needed to lever them out, friction is holding them in and maybe adhesive is superfluous?
 
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#22,482
tastelikedirt said:
Wet the wood in the holes, it will swell the compressed parts back out and grip the replacement bushings better, no need for epoxy this time

Thanks! Does it need to dry? Will it swell and stay swollen after it dries? Or should I soak them, give them some time and then put the bushings back in when things are still damp?
Click to expand...
I would not do that. The wood will dry and shrink back. Wood changes and moves over time, and if you have wood that's subject to changes in humidity and is also restrained, it will eventually shrink from the compression. Not a lot, but there you have it. I would probably do the slivers of wood thing, either with or without any glue at all if there's a chance the bushing were going to pull back out again.
 
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#22,483
ColinLP said:
Yes let it dry, maybe if you have a soldering iron you could firstly let the water soak into the wood then run the soldering iron (hot) around the walls of the wood to create steam, that will expand inside the cells of the wood and reinflate them better. It will be a permanent job but remember tat some of the cells will have been damaged by the first fitting but not a lot
Click to expand...
Ah, that's different from what I thought you were telling him to do. Never mind that last post.
 
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#22,484
kat888 said:
If you needed to lever them out, friction is holding them in and maybe adhesive is superfluous?
Click to expand...
Yes, and as you point out, that's not a bad thing if you ever have to get the bushings back out again. I don't know why that would be important someday. There's a lot of things like that none of us knows yet.
 
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#22,486
kat888 said:
At least it's coming. Chorus in country since 19 Dec and VT DI pre since 21 Dec, maybe they turn up by February. And delivery? Lost count of the times we've watched the postie putting a card in the box saying 'you weren't home, you'll have to collect your mail'.
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I feel like I either live in a country with exceptionally good delivery after reading stuff like this all the time, which is weird because its the same companies. Here they always call a few minutes before warning (if they have the number), reschedule or if theres any neighbour in sight leave it with them
 
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#22,487
kat888 said:
At least it's coming. Chorus in country since 19 Dec and VT DI pre since 21 Dec, maybe they turn up by February. And delivery? Lost count of the times we've watched the postie putting a card in the box saying 'you weren't home, you'll have to collect your mail'.
Click to expand...
My new VT DI showed up today. Getting to play around with it is my motivation to finish grading a large stack of term papers (ugh!). I hope that your gear shows up soon.
 
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#22,488
firstly let the water soak into the wood then run the soldering iron (hot) around the walls of the wood to create steam, that will expand inside the cells of the wood and reinflate them better.

Just to be clear, I assume the soldering iron should not touch the walls or burn them. We just want to heat up the walls that have moisture in them in order for the wood to expand.

If you needed to lever them out, friction is holding them in and maybe adhesive is superfluous?

Agreed. My only thought was, that the tension of all four strings pulling on this bridge may equal the force of my prying these things out. After the initial pull, they slide right out very easily. I'm sure there are some angles and geometry and math at work here that is a little bit beyond me. The strings are more or less pulling at a perpendicular angle to the sleeves and mostly shouldn't be an issue at all...I guess?

I'm feeling confident that if getting the sleeves wet and the wood expands just a little bit, there will not be need for any adhesives. So I think I'll skip them all together.

I used a Q-Tip to generously apply water to the walls down where the bushings will go. Little pools of water ended up in the bottom of the holes. I return every so often and drag the water at the bottom of the holes and drag it up on the side walls.
 
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#22,491
IMG_20161229_182158239.jpg
 
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#22,492
tastelikedirt said:
firstly let the water soak into the wood then run the soldering iron (hot) around the walls of the wood to create steam, that will expand inside the cells of the wood and reinflate them better.

Just to be clear, I assume the soldering iron should not touch the walls or burn them. We just want to heat up the walls that have moisture in them in order for the wood to expand.
Click to expand...

You could use a bit of damp cloth between the soldering iron and the wood.
 
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#22,493
Jeez someone wasnt joking about this place zooming away ! Ive been ill the past two days but Id posted about the Neotech strap and that I would post back if they got back to me regards the weird shape of it . They messaged me yesterday at some point , I never saw it till today . It turns out that I may have the strap thats meant for people who like their bass up under the chin ! Although they do make another model . Ive to get in touch with the measurements of the one I have and get back to them . They may offer a swap .
 
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#22,495
rumblejunkie said:
Jeez someone wasnt joking about this place zooming away ! Ive been ill the past two days but Id posted about the Neotech strap and that I would post back if they got back to me regards the weird shape of it . They messaged me yesterday at some point , I never saw it till today . It turns out that I may have the strap thats meant for people who like their bass up under the chin ! Although they do make another model . Ive to get in touch with the measurements of the one I have and get back to them . They may offer a swap .
Click to expand...
If they don't do right by you, I would suggest trying the MONO M80 Betty. It comes in a variety of colors and in two different sizes (short and long). The Mono stuff tends to be spendy but I have seen them for $39 (U.S.). Here is their pitch, which gives you an idea on design and materials:The Betty (Black-Long)
 
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#22,497
Speaking of straps ... anyone have any experience with Ernie Ball Black Polypro Guitar Straps? They are longer than the DSL kangaroo leather straps I have at the moment, which feel a bit short and are a pain in the arse to adjust. They probably take a straplock better as well.
 
#22,498
tastelikedirt said:
Continued: Stock 3 point bridge replacement on 2009/12 Epiphone bird, with Babicz aftermarket replacement bridge.
IMG_20161229_104043327_zpsv6ktt2zs.jpg

It's a little bit difficult to take a photo of, but down in the bushing hole nearest the volume knobs there is a small hole and there appears to be a little wire poking through there. I assume this is a ground wire for the electronics.

There was talk of putting epoxy or glue on the bushings when they are re inserted to the body. If that happens, I assume there is a chance of putting a barrier between the bushing and the wire that it should be making contact with.
Click to expand...
Keep the Epoxy to the other side of the bushing. You don't need much of it, and even if you do get some there I can't believe it'll be a problem. The ground wire will still be up against the metal of the bushing.
 

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