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Thunderbird Club

#299,361
BklynKen said:
Are there any acoustic engineer types here? Not sure the right forum to post this in. My wife and I bought a new (to us) apartment and are in the design stages of the work we want to do on it before moving in. In a room I'll be using for bass practice as well as my home office, I want to do some acoustic treatment on/in the walls and floor so I don't annoy my wife on the other side of one wall and neighbors on the other side of another wall, as well as below. Neither the contractor nor the designer/architect has any experience with bass frequencies; mostly human voices. I'm not looking for complete soundproofing, which would be cost-prohibitive, but just a significant reduction to not be transferring boom and vibration through the structure.
Click to expand...
Ask Will. He did his own.
 
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#299,362
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#299,363
MCF said:
I like it. If you want to build a rack mount 360, please build one for me too. DiCossimo seems to be asleep at the switch. I hate when people release prototype project info, but don’t follow through on the execution.

I wonder if @Sensei Tim would be interested in helping us out. Although I don’t know if he’ll consider a rack mount option.
Click to expand...
I've looked into rackmount versions of some of my stuff but man low quantity 1u racks are $$$$$$ .

most places won't touch low volumes and those that do for punching and printing a black 1u rack runs into the 150-200$ price range, before shipping

if you want a cost effective way for printing controls on a 1u rack consider getting a PCB faceplate and using that.
 
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#299,364
BklynKen said:
Are there any acoustic engineer types here? Not sure the right forum to post this in. My wife and I bought a new (to us) apartment and are in the design stages of the work we want to do on it before moving in. In a room I'll be using for bass practice as well as my home office, I want to do some acoustic treatment on/in the walls and floor so I don't annoy my wife on the other side of one wall and neighbors on the other side of another wall, as well as below. Neither the contractor nor the designer/architect has any experience with bass frequencies; mostly human voices. I'm not looking for complete soundproofing, which would be cost-prohibitive, but just a significant reduction to not be transferring boom and vibration through the structure.
Click to expand...
I don't claim to be an acoustic engineer, but I have some experience in building walls in apartment buildings to (attempt) to contain sounds. There are two issues. One is sound transmission through the structure, and the other is sound transmission through air. You will want to address both for bass playing. If you build a wall that creates an air gap between the existing wall and the new wall surface, it is the start. You will want to use light gauge steel studs or really crappy wood studs. It's not a structural partition. A couple layers of GWB on the sound side of the wall, with acoustic sealant in both layers is good. Use adhesive instead of screws to attach the second layer of GYB. Fill the stud cavities with dense mineral wool if you can manage to pay for it. Unless you are on the ground floor or in the basement, you will have to think about the floor as well. Putting your amp on a piece of playground matting helps a whole lot. Don't forget the ceiling. Sound can get into the ceiling cavities and travel a long way. If the building is concrete, then you will have to make sure there's no structure borne sound traveling all around the building. You would do something similar with channels and more GWB and mineral wool. Think of it as building a really dead box around the room. There are other products that I'm a whole lot less familiar with that are rubber or something similar. I assume they work, but there's no substitute for an air gap behind a sealed surface that keeps the sound mostly in.

If you angle the walls just slightly to avoid parallel hard surfaces, it will make it more pleasant for you. As long as you are doing all this work, get them out of parallel by a couple inches. I know how expensive square footage is in NYC, so this is a pretty big thing. But so is adding a second wall. I have made big mineral wool panels for the basement music room, and they work well to keep the sound from getting harsh in the room. I'm less sure they keep the sound in the room. For what its worth, the music room is built with wood studs, only a single layer of GWB, and fiberglass insulation. It's set into a concrete basement structure, on a thin concrete rat slab with just dirt below. It may even be hollow in spots. The neighbors don't complain, but then the kid next door on one side is a drummer and the couple on the other side used to play in a band that rehearsed in their basement.

Easy for me to say, since I'm busy spending all your money.
 
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#299,365
Gaolee said:
I don't claim to be an acoustic engineer, but I have some experience in building walls in apartment buildings to (attempt) to contain sounds. There are two issues. One is sound transmission through the structure, and the other is sound transmission through air. You will want to address both for bass playing. If you build a wall that creates an air gap between the existing wall and the new wall surface, it is the start. You will want to use light gauge steel studs or really crappy wood studs. It's not a structural partition. A couple layers of GWB on the sound side of the wall, with acoustic sealant in both layers is good. Use adhesive instead of screws to attach the second layer of GYB. Fill the stud cavities with dense mineral wool if you can manage to pay for it. Unless you are on the ground floor or in the basement, you will have to think about the floor as well. Putting your amp on a piece of playground matting helps a whole lot. Don't forget the ceiling. Sound can get into the ceiling cavities and travel a long way. If the building is concrete, then you will have to make sure there's no structure borne sound traveling all around the building. You would do something similar with channels and more GWB and mineral wool. Think of it as building a really dead box around the room. There are other products that I'm a whole lot less familiar with that are rubber or something similar. I assume they work, but there's no substitute for an air gap behind a sealed surface that keeps the sound mostly in.

If you angle the walls just slightly to avoid parallel hard surfaces, it will make it more pleasant for you. As long as you are doing all this work, get them out of parallel by a couple inches. I know how expensive square footage is in NYC, so this is a pretty big thing. But so is adding a second wall. I have made big mineral wool panels for the basement music room, and they work well to keep the sound from getting harsh in the room. I'm less sure they keep the sound in the room. For what its worth, the music room is built with wood studs, only a single layer of GWB, and fiberglass insulation. It's set into a concrete basement structure, on a thin concrete rat slab with just dirt below. It may even be hollow in spots. The neighbors don't complain, but then the kid next door on one side is a drummer and the couple on the other side used to play in a band that rehearsed in their basement.

Easy for me to say, since I'm busy spending all your money.
Click to expand...

No mind-blown emoji here, huh?
 
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#299,366
Gaolee said:
I don't claim to be an acoustic engineer, but I have some experience in building walls in apartment buildings to (attempt) to contain sounds. There are two issues. One is sound transmission through the structure, and the other is sound transmission through air. You will want to address both for bass playing. If you build a wall that creates an air gap between the existing wall and the new wall surface, it is the start. You will want to use light gauge steel studs or really crappy wood studs. It's not a structural partition. A couple layers of GWB on the sound side of the wall, with acoustic sealant in both layers is good. Use adhesive instead of screws to attach the second layer of GYB. Fill the stud cavities with dense mineral wool if you can manage to pay for it. Unless you are on the ground floor or in the basement, you will have to think about the floor as well. Putting your amp on a piece of playground matting helps a whole lot. Don't forget the ceiling. Sound can get into the ceiling cavities and travel a long way. If the building is concrete, then you will have to make sure there's no structure borne sound traveling all around the building. You would do something similar with channels and more GWB and mineral wool. Think of it as building a really dead box around the room. There are other products that I'm a whole lot less familiar with that are rubber or something similar. I assume they work, but there's no substitute for an air gap behind a sealed surface that keeps the sound mostly in.

If you angle the walls just slightly to avoid parallel hard surfaces, it will make it more pleasant for you. As long as you are doing all this work, get them out of parallel by a couple inches. I know how expensive square footage is in NYC, so this is a pretty big thing. But so is adding a second wall. I have made big mineral wool panels for the basement music room, and they work well to keep the sound from getting harsh in the room. I'm less sure they keep the sound in the room. For what its worth, the music room is built with wood studs, only a single layer of GWB, and fiberglass insulation. It's set into a concrete basement structure, on a thin concrete rat slab with just dirt below. It may even be hollow in spots. The neighbors don't complain, but then the kid next door on one side is a drummer and the couple on the other side used to play in a band that rehearsed in their basement.

Easy for me to say, since I'm busy spending all your money.
Click to expand...
Great ideas. The air gap is a really good option and addresses both sound transmission issues. All those things really add up. You should be an architect!;)

I recall sound mitigating a pharmaceutical company’s board/meeting room when we did their office complex. The only thing of I recall 35 yrs latter was the company said wanted pretty wood panel doors as the entrance to be enhanced as well. So we had the style the architect had on the prints made up, then took the panels apart and put sheets of lead in like sandwich and rebuilt the doors. Obviously had to beef up the hinges and jambs.
 
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#299,367
dagrev said:
Great ideas. The air gap is a really good option. All those things really add up.

I recall sound mitigating a pharmaceutical company’s board/meeting room when we did their office complex. The only thing of I recall 35 yrs latter was the company said wanted pretty wood panel doors as the entrance to be enhanced as well. So we had the style the architect had on the prints made up, then took the panels apart and put sheets of lead in like sandwich and rebuilt the doors. Obviously had to beef up the hinges and jambs.
Click to expand...
Helluva jamb session. :smug:
 
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#299,369
Gaolee said:
I don't claim to be an acoustic engineer, but I have some experience in building walls in apartment buildings to (attempt) to contain sounds. There are two issues. One is sound transmission through the structure, and the other is sound transmission through air. You will want to address both for bass playing. If you build a wall that creates an air gap between the existing wall and the new wall surface, it is the start. You will want to use light gauge steel studs or really crappy wood studs. It's not a structural partition. A couple layers of GWB on the sound side of the wall, with acoustic sealant in both layers is good. Use adhesive instead of screws to attach the second layer of GYB. Fill the stud cavities with dense mineral wool if you can manage to pay for it. Unless you are on the ground floor or in the basement, you will have to think about the floor as well. Putting your amp on a piece of playground matting helps a whole lot. Don't forget the ceiling. Sound can get into the ceiling cavities and travel a long way. If the building is concrete, then you will have to make sure there's no structure borne sound traveling all around the building. You would do something similar with channels and more GWB and mineral wool. Think of it as building a really dead box around the room. There are other products that I'm a whole lot less familiar with that are rubber or something similar. I assume they work, but there's no substitute for an air gap behind a sealed surface that keeps the sound mostly in.

If you angle the walls just slightly to avoid parallel hard surfaces, it will make it more pleasant for you. As long as you are doing all this work, get them out of parallel by a couple inches. I know how expensive square footage is in NYC, so this is a pretty big thing. But so is adding a second wall. I have made big mineral wool panels for the basement music room, and they work well to keep the sound from getting harsh in the room. I'm less sure they keep the sound in the room. For what its worth, the music room is built with wood studs, only a single layer of GWB, and fiberglass insulation. It's set into a concrete basement structure, on a thin concrete rat slab with just dirt below. It may even be hollow in spots. The neighbors don't complain, but then the kid next door on one side is a drummer and the couple on the other side used to play in a band that rehearsed in their basement.

Easy for me to say, since I'm busy spending all your money.
Click to expand...
Air / insulation gap with angled wall is proven tech (look up recording studio control room windows). If you angle walls, think about what will be on / aganst / by those walls to decide which way to angle them. For instance, if you want the top to angle in (maximum floorspace), you’ll likely want foam or something nehind the base of any art hanging on the walls, and the further down the hanger/s is/are, the more the nail/hook (or the hanger) will need to extend.

I don’t know what GWB/GYB is/are. Great White Board / GYnecological Board?
 
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#299,372
12 hours and 25 minutes with 3 stops. Unfortunately, Marshall has another 4 hours.

Thanks Marshall for the company and sharing the driving.

IMG_9217.jpeg
 
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#299,373
BklynKen said:
Are there any acoustic engineer types here? Not sure the right forum to post this in. My wife and I bought a new (to us) apartment and are in the design stages of the work we want to do on it before moving in. In a room I'll be using for bass practice as well as my home office, I want to do some acoustic treatment on/in the walls and floor so I don't annoy my wife on the other side of one wall and neighbors on the other side of another wall, as well as below. Neither the contractor nor the designer/architect has any experience with bass frequencies; mostly human voices. I'm not looking for complete soundproofing, which would be cost-prohibitive, but just a significant reduction to not be transferring boom and vibration through the structure.
Click to expand...
I’m not an Acoustic Engineer, but I have done a fair bit of reading. Low frequencies are very difficult to stop. The only most effective way is to build a room within the room.
Putting the cab on a rubber pad will help reduce the transfer through the floor.
 
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#299,374
Engle said:
I’m not an Acoustic Engineer, but I have done a fair bit of reading. Low frequencies are very difficult to stop. The only most effective way is to build a room within the room.
Putting the cab on a rubber pad will help reduce the transfer through the floor.
Click to expand...
I use a 6" platform that I make for all my cabs. Isolates it from the floor.

1722305162149.jpeg


1722305672134.jpeg
 
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