• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Thunderbird Club

That is sick dude! as the young droogs say.

:) Thanks! The switches independently split the Peavey T-40 pu's for every coupling option - (illustration and wiring resolution by tb member @cdlynch)

GilaxisT40Options.png
 
Sounds yummy.
My favorite maple/Ebony basses all have mahogany bodies but they are neck through. It's a match made in heaven.
View attachment 2863600
My Alembic Essence sounds awesome but it's no light weight. Something to think about might be your overall weight target. With a maple/Ebony neck you might want to favor a body on the lighter weight side to keep the overall weight down, but don't lose sight of balance as well, you probably don't want a neck diver.

If the plan is to paint the body, and the neck is maple/Ebony I'd be looking for some light weight limba which IIRC is very similar to mahogany in the tonewood charts. It wouldn't be as light as most basswood but you should be able to find some lighter than most mahogany.
That is absolutely beautiful G! I see that it's also one of those fancy 4 string models that has the metal thumb rest stretching from the nut to the bridge;)

Korina's an option too. It's from the mahogany family, but quite light weight...
 
:wideyed: SSSOOOO glad I asked!!! You did NOT disappoint!!!:cool::thumbsup:

What strange new form of Rock & Roll badassery is this???

It is my own 34" scale take on the short-scale British Burns-Weill "Steamline" bass from 1959. It's nickname was the "Martian Cricket Bat"
My build thread will further illustrate : Gildaxe Gilaxis - space is the place
 
That is absolutely beautiful G! I see that it's also one of those fancy 4 string models that has the metal thumb rest stretching from the nut to the bridge;)

Korina's an option too. It's from the mahogany family, but quite light weight...
Yes. Korina is another name for Limba, same wood. Possibly a bit cheaper than nice grain mahogany, not quite as pretty a wood but excellent choice for painting and can be a bit lighter in weight as well.
 
:roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:

I do drive like an old lady.

I do too and I can’t even blame age as I’ve always driven like one :)

I like the stone look - Gives them a cool and rustic look... :)

Haven't yet had snow around here... :)

None here yet either. The only snow I saw was when we went up to South Dakota to see Jamie’s family for Christmas. They can have it

It is worth looking up the now multiple Stradivarius/Guernica vs. modern experiments. In the violin world, they have cause multiple upsets (each time it is repeated with a new methodology that addresses the previous shortcomings) because those skilled in the art can't tell the difference and have a modest preference for modern instruments.

When I still lived in L.A., I had a friend who played violin for the L.A. Philharmonic. They provided him with a Stradivarius for performances. He said his ‘cheap, US made’ violin sounded just about as good as far as he was concerned. His ‘cheap’ violin cost $75,000

:wideyed: SSSOOOO glad I asked!!! You did NOT disappoint!!!:cool::thumbsup:

What strange new form of Rock & Roll badassery is this???

I’ve seen quite a few of JIO’s basses. Many are inspired by vintage Japanese basses. His aesthetic is so spot on for what I like. Playful and vintage without descending into kitsch
 
I know, the weekend is supposed to be awfully cold. I'm staying hunkered down.

I got a nasty cold and this weather ain’t helping a bit. Supposed to start warming up by Sunday...into the 40’s. That’ll be nice :)
 
My biggest problem with the cold is getting my shop warm enough to work in. Glue and Duratex need to be st a decent temp to cure. I also do routing and sanding in my carport whenever possible. That ain’t happening for a few days at the soonest
 
Pretty much. But for a quantitative study, the sample would need to be at least 10 basses of each wood, with minimal variation as possible, like @JIO said about neck-thru vs bolt on, still applies, must be same shape, same hardware (not same model, but actually transfer the hardware, strings, pups, electronics over to each bass), same batch of wood (for each type of wood), etc. Then to rule out the individuality of the difference in the batch of wood, you'd have to test another batch of each wood.

[pedant]

I'm going to go ahead and disagree on your sampling methodology. You can't choose n (sample size) until you have an idea of the mean variation within the sample and the mean difference between comparison groups. Then you need to calculate a sample size sufficient to find a difference 19 times out of 20.

[/pedant]

Sorry, my business runs on getting sample sizes right.
 
Last edited: