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Thunderbird Club

I prefer the jack location on the bottom on all of my basses. I always felt that the chord is in the way on the front, even tho it doesn't interfere with anything. (I'm just weird that way, I know)
When I bought my first Goth the jack had been yanked out of the face of the body, leaving a messy hole. That is what I am always worried about happening to any bass with the jack on the front. Probably just paranoia on my part, but I have seen it happen to many guitars and basses.

That makes sense, thanks for the insight! :)
 
Ahh there is someone on A Facebook Group called "Jassthebass Roberts", thought It have been you. Was there any import costs?

No import costs, just the item cost & shipping charge. I upped the shipping cost from £15 to £26 to get it a bit quicker.

Sounds good so far but ironically I haven't rehearsed with the band since I fitted it!

And it slots straight in too!
I only had one issue which was my fault for not thinking ahead. This was to set the action height before fitting the strings
 
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No import costs, just the item cost & shipping charge. I upped the shipping cost from £15 to £26 to get it a bit quicker.

Sounds good so far but ironically I haven't rehearsed with the band since I fitted it!

And it slots straight in too!
I only had one issue which was my fault for not thinking ahead. This was to set the action height before fitting the strings
I seen one on Ebay for like £56 quid with £15 p&p. If you insist that there is no import costs then I may get one on payday!
 
As for your bass, I have the jack at the bottom and I've always wished it was on the body, so out of curiosity why do you want it on the bottom?

I always thought it more appealing for it to be at the bottom. And like Andy said, we're just weird like that xD.

I prefer the jack location on the bottom on all of my basses. I always felt that the chord is in the way on the front, even tho it doesn't interfere with anything. (I'm just weird that way, I know)
When I bought my first Goth the jack had been yanked out of the face of the body, leaving a messy hole. That is what I am always worried about happening to any bass with the jack on the front. Probably just paranoia on my part, but I have seen it happen to many guitars and basses.

To me, when the jack cable is on the front, especially a thunderbird, it just looks like there's too much, even thought there's hardly anything. It's my perception i would say. But also, paranoia is a good thing too. I've seen a few birds with a busted jack hole on the surface. Which at first led me to want a strat jack like nikki's spector birds. But then, thought about it more. I guess it just looks cleaner with fewer things on the face of the bass.
 
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In other news my bird has wings again...But cannot be played for the next few weeks as i'll be letting the glue dry and then woodfilling, sanding, and re-painting. Also, i took a few pics of it with the neck since i took it appart when it broke, and will also be getting new thicker gauge strings as i've said in an earlier post to be able to down tune without loss of clarity.

WARNING: These next photos are not for the faint of heart and bird lovers. Look at your own sadistic torture
 

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In other news my bird has wings again...But cannot be played for the next few weeks as i'll be letting the glue dry and then woodfilling, sanding, and re-painting. Also, i took a few pics of it with the neck since i took it appart when it broke, and will also be getting new thicker gauge strings as i've said in an earlier post to be able to down tune without loss of clarity.

WARNING: These next photos are not for the faint of heart and bird lovers. Look at your own sadistic torture

I can bet money on it that once this is done it will be better than before...
 
I can bet money on it that once this is done it will be better than before...

Possibly, i already have the action set since i didn't tamper with the pole pieces (even after i fixed my ground problem). I'm waiting a few days before pulling the white plastic off to add the wood filler, sand it all down flush, paint it flat black/red edgeline. Satin clear coat it and then i'll put the white plastic back on, just it won't be white, i'll paint that all black too. Then round it off just a tad. It'll be great. It's pretty thick so it's flush with the raised center part. I like it. I'll probs keep the jack in the front for now cause i don't want to do anything more on it until much later. Just wanna be able to play it once again.
 
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Has anyone ever added a stop tail to their T-bird? I was debating going string-thru, but I'm not a fan of fishing strings through the body. I'm going to be mounting a Supertone when my bird arrives, but I want that extra little bit of distance to keep the strings from having the end wraps on the saddles.
 
Unless you're using a brand of strings with freaky long wraps, they don't reach the saddles on the Supertone. I'm running Dean Markley Blue Steel Nickels on my TBird, and the wraps are nowhere near the saddles.
Even on the E string? I've found that almost every bass I've ever owned has had this issue, due to the ball stop being too close to the E saddle when intonated. What's the break angle like, too?
 
Even on the E string? I've found that almost every bass I've ever owned has had this issue, due to the ball stop being too close to the E saddle when intonated. What's the break angle like, too?
Yeah, even the E. Eyeballing it, it looks like at least a half inch between where the wrap ends and the top center of the saddle.

I don't have a protractor to figure out the actual measurement, but it's similar to what was on my old Charvel 2B and my current Sterling SB4 that uses a clone of the Musicman bridge. Its got considerably more break than the DTP (Damnable Three Point) does; that lack of break angle was one reason I wanted to go to the Supertone (and there are several other reasons on top of that).
 
Yeah, even the E. Eyeballing it, it looks like at least a half inch between where the wrap ends and the top center of the saddle.

I don't have a protractor to figure out the actual measurement, but it's similar to what was on my old Charvel 2B and my current Sterling SB4 that uses a clone of the Musicman bridge. Its got considerably more break than the DTP (Damnable Three Point) does; that lack of break angle was one reason I wanted to go to the Supertone (and there are several other reasons on top of that).

I checked the E string on my Supertone and like Haji said, about a 1/2" of clearance between the wrap and the saddle.

Cool! Thanks, guys. :P One less mod I'll have to do. ^_^