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Thunderbird Club

OK. Today is "New Case Day". Thanks to @Nocturnal for the info and to S.A./FedEx for getting it here quickly.
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Hi everyone.
So, I posted some months ago just after buying my first Gibson Thunderbird. 625 USD, pretty cheap down here in Costa Rica for a Gibson 2007 model (everything is more expensive and more difficult to get, here). The guy was selling it +1000 USD but when I saw it, it had a lot of problems that I didn't want on a bass. So I told him no and then the G.A.S. and the opportunity to have a Gibson TBird (I know, I know, Epi guys... you're right!) worked in a wrong way and I ended offering him these 625 USD (obviously after a harsh bargain).
To sum things up, the neck is twisted and the back of headstock is badly wounded probably by the pressure a previous owner(s) put in the bullet truss rod. I alwalys thought I could make it repair but the lack of good luthiers here made me write to a pretty famous guy that builds very good thunderbirdy basses, in the USA, asking humbly what he would do, in order to give instructions to some luthiers-like, here, as most of them don´t know where to begin with. But the guy told me, very honestly, that he "wouldn't even try to repair it". So cold shower for me with my almost unplayable 625$ Gibson Tbird (you were right Epi folks, I know..).
So the problem basically are, from worse to less horrible:
- the headstock damage
- the twisted neck
- The warp
I was planning buying later a Hipshot replacement for the bridge to lower action but before, I have first to repair the head (the twist might be something I could get used to if the intonation doesn't change that much) and I was thinking of replacing the truss rod by a normal single action one with Allen wrench, to straighten it properly after because I guess the one I have must be damaged.
Below some pictures of my beloved wounded one... I appreciate any kind of suggestion (except "throw it away" or "hang it nicely in your living room").
(and to tell you the state I'm in, yesterday I was so frustrated that I'was about to buy an Epi IV Tbird 2016 (the basic one), 275 USD that a guy offers me but.. but I think I should hold the money and try to repair the Gibson. I have an MIA P Bass and and moded Squier JBass among others. I don´t really "need" another Tbird... I'd would just love to play MY Tbird...

Thunderbird people, I salute you.

The twist:View attachment 3168250
Twist:
View attachment 3168251
Are the two chromed nuts normal here?:View attachment 3168252
The ugly part:View attachment 3168253 View attachment 3168254 View attachment 3168255 View attachment 3168256


Your worst case scenario........ gets you a killer 7enderbird!
 
Velcro shoes... Of course, @GonePlaid is a Floridian, so that and having dinner at 4pm probably come naturally.

Some pants with an elastic waistband complete the ensemble :woot:
 
Hi everyone.
So, I posted some months ago just after buying my first Gibson Thunderbird. 625 USD, pretty cheap down here in Costa Rica for a Gibson 2007 model (everything is more expensive and more difficult to get, here). The guy was selling it +1000 USD but when I saw it, it had a lot of problems that I didn't want on a bass. So I told him no and then the G.A.S. and the opportunity to have a Gibson TBird (I know, I know, Epi guys... you're right!) worked in a wrong way and I ended offering him these 625 USD (obviously after a harsh bargain).
To sum things up, the neck is twisted and the back of headstock is badly wounded probably by the pressure a previous owner(s) put in the bullet truss rod. I alwalys thought I could make it repair but the lack of good luthiers here made me write to a pretty famous guy that builds very good thunderbirdy basses, in the USA, asking humbly what he would do, in order to give instructions to some luthiers-like, here, as most of them don´t know where to begin with. But the guy told me, very honestly, that he "wouldn't even try to repair it". So cold shower for me with my almost unplayable 625$ Gibson Tbird (you were right Epi folks, I know..).
So the problem basically are, from worse to less horrible:
- the headstock damage
- the twisted neck
- The warp
I was planning buying later a Hipshot replacement for the bridge to lower action but before, I have first to repair the head (the twist might be something I could get used to if the intonation doesn't change that much) and I was thinking of replacing the truss rod by a normal single action one with Allen wrench, to straighten it properly after because I guess the one I have must be damaged.
Below some pictures of my beloved wounded one... I appreciate any kind of suggestion (except "throw it away" or "hang it nicely in your living room").
(and to tell you the state I'm in, yesterday I was so frustrated that I'was about to buy an Epi IV Tbird 2016 (the basic one), 275 USD that a guy offers me but.. but I think I should hold the money and try to repair the Gibson. I have an MIA P Bass and and moded Squier JBass among others. I don´t really "need" another Tbird... I'd would just love to play MY Tbird...

Thunderbird people, I salute you.

The twist:View attachment 3168250
Twist:
View attachment 3168251
Are the two chromed nuts normal here?:View attachment 3168252
The ugly part:View attachment 3168253 View attachment 3168254 View attachment 3168255 View attachment 3168256
Such a sad story! I hate to see a good bird treated bad, but that's what the previous owner apparently did.

Like others have said, the Neck/headstock might not be tilted as bad as it looks or might even be just the nut lifting, hard to tell from the pics. It also looks like the Neck has been cracked at some point. And you're correct, the Chrome nuts do not belong there.

Any time you use two nuts back to back and threaded on a rod you create a "lock nut" or binding nut situation. As shown in your picture, the brass nut is doing absolutely nothing and in fact is in danger of striping threads or it's own shoulders if tightened. This assumes the Chrome nuts are screwed on the thread, there is a chance the previous owner used oversized nuts as spacers, which is kind of ok in a pinch but far from ideal. The problem with nuts as spacers vs washers as spacers is that the shoulders of the nut can dig and lock into the wood vs spinning freely.

My suggestion...
1) remove the strings
2) remove the brass truss nut being careful not to strip the shoulders or threads
3) carefully remove the first Chrome nut (must be done one nut at a time so they don't bind)
4) carefully remove the second Chrome nut (may be tough if it's sunk into the wood)
5) inspect the truss threads to ensure none are striped
6) inspect the neck crack to see if it needs further repair or epoxy fill
7) inspect the headstock and neck twist to see if it has straightened out since the brass and Chrome nuts were removed
8) let it sit for a day or so (keep it away from excessive humidity and heat or cold) with no tension to see if things straighten out
9) confirm the trussrod works by installing a few washers on the rod then reinstalling the brass nut and tightening a little bit at a time to get some (not a lot) of back bow without strings installed
10) if you can get back bow and the neck doesn't look as twisted then reinstall the strings and do a proper setup - you're good to go!
11) if you can't get back bow or the neck is still twisted you have a bigger issue that will most likely require a luthier to possibly pop the fretboard off to repair or replace the truss rod, fix the neck crack or in an extreme case even cut the neck off and route a pocket in the body to install a Fender or Epiphone Bolt on neck (the NR Fenderbird look worked well for John Entwistle).

The good news is, that everything up to step 11 is free and easy to do yourself. You might get lucky and be fine without investing anymore in the bass. Step 11 is a worst case situation that might run you a couple hundred dollars for a new or used neck and a couple bucks to modify the bass for the new neck.

Good luck!
 
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Such a sad story! I hate to see a good bird treated bad, but that's what the previous owner apparently did.

Like others have said, the Neck/headstock might not be tilted as bad as it looks or might even be just the nut lifting, hard to tell from the pics. It also looks like the Neck has been cracked at some point. And you're correct, the Chrome nuts do not belong there.

Any time you use two nuts back to back and threaded on a rod you create a "lock nut" or binding nut situation. As shown in your picture, the brass nut is doing absolutely nothing and in fact is in danger of striping threads or it's own shoulders if tightened. This assumes the Chrome nuts are screwed on the thread, there is a chance the previous owner used oversized nuts as spacers, which is kind of ok in a pinch but far from ideal. The problem with nuts as spacers vs washers as spacers is that the shoulders of the nut can dig and lock into the wood vs spinning freely.

My suggestion...
1) remove the strings
2) remove the brass truss nut being careful not to strip the shoulders or threads
3) carefully remove the first Chrome nut (must be done one nut at a time so they don't bind)
4) carefully remove the second Chrome nut (may be tough if it's sunk into the wood)
5) inspect the truss threads to ensure none are striped
6) inspect the neck crack to see if it needs further repair or epoxy fill
7) inspect the headstock and neck twist to see if it has straightened out since the brass and Chrome nuts were removed
8) let it sit for a day or so (keep it away from excessive humidity and heat or cold) with no tension to see if things straighten out
9) confirm the trussrod works by installing a few washers on the rod then reinstalling the brass nut and tightening a little bit at a time to get some (not a lot) of back bow without strings installed
10) if you can get back bow and the neck doesn't look as twisted then reinstall the strings and do a proper setup - you're good to go!
11) if you can't get back bow or the neck is still twisted you have a bigger issue that will most likely require a luthier to possibly pop the fretboard off to repair or replace the truss rod, fix the neck crack or in an extreme case even cut the neck off and route a pocket in the body to install a Fender or Epiphone Bolt on neck (worked well for John Entwistle).

The good news is, that everything up to step 11 is free and easy to do yourself. You might get lucky and be fine without investing anymore in the bass. Step 11 is a worst case situation that might run you a couple hundred dollars for a new or used neck and a couple bucks to modify the bass for the new neck.

Good luck!
The only thing I would add is that if the crack closes up when the strings are off and the trussrod is loosened up, you may have to tighten the trussrod to get the cracks to open up again to inject the epoxy. Getting a tool to do that is pretty straight forward, and you can use low viscosity epoxy that will go into the crack easier. But, you still have to get it in there. Once the epoxy is injected, then loosen the trussrod again to let the crack close naturally.

OR...

You may find the same process is true with the strings. You would have to loosen the trussrod but retighten the strings to get the cracks to open up enough to get the epoxy in. Only do either one enough to open the cracks a little. Epoxy fixes everything. It's even better than duct tape. You still don't want to make anything worse.

Gotta get that 'Bird back into playing condition as a 'Bird should be.
 
Regarding the twisted neck, there's an old trick that the 3 point is perfect for, reversing the saddles and even changing their positions can help compensate. The '76 I sold was set up this way.
 
So I got some more work done on the Goth project.
Sanded some more down... turns out they took a page right from the 7ender custom shop of the 60's... they took a standard sunburst bass and painted over it. Most of the front still has paint on it.
I also added a belly contour... it ain't perfect but it's there.

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So I got some more work done on the Goth project.
Sanded some more down... turns out they took a page right from the 7ender custom shop of the 60's... they took a standard sunburst bass and painted over it. Most of the front still has paint on it.
I also added a belly contour... it ain't perfect but it's there.

View attachment 3168768
View attachment 3168742 View attachment 3168743 View attachment 3168744

So the largish engine in the background runs the belt sander?