• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Thunderbird Club

Hi everyone.
So, I posted some months ago just after buying my first Gibson Thunderbird. 625 USD, pretty cheap down here in Costa Rica for a Gibson 2007 model (everything is more expensive and more difficult to get, here). The guy was selling it +1000 USD but when I saw it, it had a lot of problems that I didn't want on a bass. So I told him no and then the G.A.S. and the opportunity to have a Gibson TBird (I know, I know, Epi guys... you're right!) worked in a wrong way and I ended offering him these 625 USD (obviously after a harsh bargain).
To sum things up, the neck is twisted and the back of headstock is badly wounded probably by the pressure a previous owner(s) put in the bullet truss rod. I alwalys thought I could make it repair but the lack of good luthiers here made me write to a pretty famous guy that builds very good thunderbirdy basses, in the USA, asking humbly what he would do, in order to give instructions to some luthiers-like, here, as most of them don´t know where to begin with. But the guy told me, very honestly, that he "wouldn't even try to repair it". So cold shower for me with my almost unplayable 625$ Gibson Tbird (you were right Epi folks, I know..).
So the problem basically are, from worse to less horrible:
- the headstock damage
- the twisted neck
- The warp
I was planning buying later a Hipshot replacement for the bridge to lower action but before, I have first to repair the head (the twist might be something I could get used to if the intonation doesn't change that much) and I was thinking of replacing the truss rod by a normal single action one with Allen wrench, to straighten it properly after because I guess the one I have must be damaged.
Below some pictures of my beloved wounded one... I appreciate any kind of suggestion (except "throw it away" or "hang it nicely in your living room").
(and to tell you the state I'm in, yesterday I was so frustrated that I'was about to buy an Epi IV Tbird 2016 (the basic one), 275 USD that a guy offers me but.. but I think I should hold the money and try to repair the Gibson. I have an MIA P Bass and and moded Squier JBass among others. I don´t really "need" another Tbird... I'd would just love to play MY Tbird...

Thunderbird people, I salute you.

The twist:View attachment 3168250
Twist:
View attachment 3168251
Are the two chromed nuts normal here?:View attachment 3168252
The ugly part:View attachment 3168253 View attachment 3168254 View attachment 3168255 View attachment 3168256

That does look like a severe twist in the neck but I am far from an expert on any of this. Our Queen has (or had) a 70's Bird with a twisted neck but was able to adjust the setup to keep it playable. Queen V may be able to offer advice on that.

IF the neck is screwed up beyond repair there is one other option. I have a friend with a 76 Bird body that was converted to a 7enderBird after the neck was broken off. That *might* work for you but I wouldn't do it until I knew for sure the neck couldn't be salvaged.

Best of luck!!
 
You can pull the bridge anchors out while doing the body work to make things easier.
I plan to... eventually.
If I keep the 3-point, I'd like to get Gibson inserts cause they sit flush.
Option B is to keep those inserts
Option C is a Kahler trem.... to stay true to the Sixx Hamer... but that probably won't happen cause the price of one.
 
Such a sad story! I hate to see a good bird treated bad, but that's what the previous owner apparently did.

Like others have said, the Neck/headstock might not be tilted as bad as it looks or might even be just the nut lifting, hard to tell from the pics. It also looks like the Neck has been cracked at some point. And you're correct, the Chrome nuts do not belong there.

Any time you use two nuts back to back and threaded on a rod you create a "lock nut" or binding nut situation. As shown in your picture, the brass nut is doing absolutely nothing and in fact is in danger of striping threads or it's own shoulders if tightened. This assumes the Chrome nuts are screwed on the thread, there is a chance the previous owner used oversized nuts as spacers, which is kind of ok in a pinch but far from ideal. The problem with nuts as spacers vs washers as spacers is that the shoulders of the nut can dig and lock into the wood vs spinning freely.

My suggestion...
1) remove the strings
2) remove the brass truss nut being careful not to strip the shoulders or threads
3) carefully remove the first Chrome nut (must be done one nut at a time so they don't bind)
4) carefully remove the second Chrome nut (may be tough if it's sunk into the wood)
5) inspect the truss threads to ensure none are striped
6) inspect the neck crack to see if it needs further repair or epoxy fill
7) inspect the headstock and neck twist to see if it has straightened out since the brass and Chrome nuts were removed
8) let it sit for a day or so (keep it away from excessive humidity and heat or cold) with no tension to see if things straighten out
9) confirm the trussrod works by installing a few washers on the rod then reinstalling the brass nut and tightening a little bit at a time to get some (not a lot) of back bow without strings installed
10) if you can get back bow and the neck doesn't look as twisted then reinstall the strings and do a proper setup - you're good to go!
11) if you can't get back bow or the neck is still twisted you have a bigger issue that will most likely require a luthier to possibly pop the fretboard off to repair or replace the truss rod, fix the neck crack or in an extreme case even cut the neck off and route a pocket in the body to install a Fender or Epiphone Bolt on neck (worked well for John Entwistle).

The good news is, that everything up to step 11 is free and easy to do yourself. You might get lucky and be fine without investing anymore in the bass. Step 11 is a worst case situation that might run you a couple hundred dollars for a new or used neck and a couple bucks to modify the bass for the new neck.

Good luck!

Entwistle NEVER used Gibson bodies for his FenderBirds, I wish people would stop perpetuating that myth. Peter Cook and he redesigned the shape slightly WITH NO RAISED CENTER and scratch built bodies to go with TBird guts and Precision necks (no Jazz necks, JAE used 1.75 inch wide at the nut basses for the rest of his life.) Many sources and direct quotes will back that up...and 'FenderBirds' is his spelling.

Otherwise, good advice.:)

OP contacted me on FB and I was negative about attempting repairs. IMO 2007 is the middle to end of the run of very common still depreciating TBird model. If it were a car, no collector would be interested. Needing that much work it's never going to be worth the money put into repairs. Get it as playable as possible, live with it, or pass it on to another dreamer.

Bear in mind this is from a 2006 350z owner just committed to $4k of relatively minor engine repair...
 
Last edited:
I've spend a couple of days and nights in and around Glasgow; we have dear friends there. I saw my first and so far only nuc sub near Largs, and an award-winning pipe and drum corps near downtown Glasgow. But they're in Spain while I'm in Scotland, so I'll save Glasgow for next trip.
Can't blame them...pint of Tennants 4 quid, pitcher of sangria 3 euro....no brainer
 
Entwistle NEVER used Gibson bodies for his FenderBirds, I wish people would stop perpetuating that myth. Peter Cook and he redesigned the shape slightly WITH NO RAISED CENTER and scratch built bodies to go with TBird guts and Precision necks (no Jazz necks, JAE used 1.75 inch wide at the nut basses for the rest of his life.) Many sources and direct quotes will back that up...and 'FenderBirds' is his spelling.

Otherwise, good advice.:)

OP contacted me on FB and I was negative about attempting repairs. IMO 2007 is the middle to end of the run of very common still depreciating TBird model. If it were a car, no collector would be interested. Needing that much work it's never going to be worth the money put into repairs. Get it as playable as possible, live with it, or pass it on to another dreamer.

Bear in mind this is from a 2006 350z owner just committed to $4k of relatively minor engine repair...
From a purely economic/investment standpoint, you are absolutely right. However, he got it for $650, which is dirt cheap for a 'Bird anywhere, and he's in Central America where prices are higher for a Gibson Thunderbird. Given the purchase price, I doubt that he would be able to find another player for what he has in it already plus the price of repairs. Even with that said, if he's able to repair the cracks to a stable condition and get it completely playable without putting much into it, so much the better. That's my shade-tree mechanic's view of the world.
 
So I got some more work done on the Goth project.
Sanded some more down... turns out they took a page right from the 7ender custom shop of the 60's... they took a standard sunburst bass and painted over it. Most of the front still has paint on it.
I also added a belly contour... it ain't perfect but it's there.

View attachment 3168768
View attachment 3168742 View attachment 3168743 View attachment 3168744
That's coming along. Keeping the edge between the centre section and the wings nice and clean looks like the challenge to me.
66 Chevelle! My brother had one when I was a kid.
 
That's coming along. Keeping the edge between the centre section and the wings nice and clean looks like the challenge to me.
66 Chevelle! My brother had one when I was a kid.
It will be, especially since it’s plywood with a veneer. Probably gonna get it smooth then use some kinda filler.

66 Chevelle wagon, black with red interior.

6C1B3400-D28B-4469-9A92-6EE013A9BA0C.jpeg
 
It will be, especially since it’s plywood with a veneer. Probably gonna get it smooth then use some kinda filler.

66 Chevelle wagon, black with red interior.

View attachment 3169264

Am i seeing things, or has that bulldozer been moved from it's last resting place?
 
From a purely economic/investment standpoint, you are absolutely right. However, he got it for $650, which is dirt cheap for a 'Bird anywhere, and he's in Central America where prices are higher for a Gibson Thunderbird. Given the purchase price, I doubt that he would be able to find another player for what he has in it already plus the price of repairs. Even with that said, if he's able to repair the cracks to a stable condition and get it completely playable without putting much into it, so much the better. That's my shade-tree mechanic's view of the world.
I'm also hoping for the best here, but chances are pretty good those 2 spacer nuts were an attempt to correct a pretty bad forward bow. (And I would guess the cracks happened when they were clamping the neck as they were tightening the truss rod)

The other repair option that may be viable is to pull the frets and plane the fingerboard to counter the forward bow or twist. That's something I would consider and do myself if I thought it would get it playable.
 
It will be, especially since it’s plywood with a veneer. Probably gonna get it smooth then use some kinda filler.

66 Chevelle wagon, black with red interior.

View attachment 3169264
That's what I need to haul the upright! Now if I could just get an electric conversion...we have the highest gas prices on the continent here.