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Thunderbird Club

I like 18s and 15s. Why? Because that's what is in the folded horn cabinets I like. Better, worse? Who knows. Probably not, but I'M RIGHT! The Tower of Jank was a bad idea, but I did it anyway. It is ported at the back, which is probably its only saving grace, but it sounds OK so long as you tweak it enough and don't expect the volume that a 120 lb cabinet should have. But it is tall and skinny and looks pretty good in a goofy way. What else is there to ask for?

Out there in Gen Pop the iron law of TB is 10s rule the roost. That in itself is a reason for me not to use 10s. I had rosy-golden nostalgic memories of that first Bassman clone with its 212 cab. There's no other mystical sh!t about it, it's a cab with enough power handling to cover any forseeable requirement, it does its job.
 
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Just an odd thought that occurred to me. I’ve seen a couple recent new members here almost apologize because they ‘only’ have a humble bolt on Epi. First, if you love your bass, then you’re good to go! Second, I don’t think the bolt on Part is the real difference...maybe some other stuff, but not that. I love the aesthetics of the neckthrough design on my Gibson’s , but I don’t believe it’s superior to a well built bolt on. My Cataldo NR is a bolt on and compares very favorably with my Gibson’s. My Drake is a bolt on too and it’s a pretty high end instrument. If I had an Epi bolt on, I’d just drop some Thunderbucker Ranch pickups in and call it a day, assuming I liked the look, build and feel enough to justify the additional investment

The only appreciable difference between my old neck through Epi Bird and my bolt on Cataldos is ... the Cataldos are an order of magnitude better. After playing the first Cataldo, then the set neck Orville, through necks lost all allure. Not saying they are bad, just I don't care about the neck join anymore.
 
The only appreciable difference between my old neck through Epi Bird and my bolt on Cataldos is ... the Cataldos are an order of magnitude better. After playing the first Cataldo, then the set neck Orville, through necks lost all allure. Not saying they are bad, just I don't care about the neck join anymore.

I'm only now in that camp of think, was only till i got the 2 Epi Birds along with the latest antics of 2 7enders.
They all do something different in ways that i like. So yeah, the neck joint thing is now a non issue for me as well.
 
Like anything music gear related, some have very strong opinions about what ‘matters’ or not. Do different woods make a huge tonal difference? Some say yes, others say its utter nonsense. I wouldn’t argue with Michael Tobias or someone way more qualified than me to speak out on the subject. I just get stuff I like :)
I know there’s folks who swear neck throughs add sustain. On bass sessions or even gigs, I’ve never once wished for more sustain, but often wished for less, so again I’m unqualified to speak on the subject. Are bolt on designs inherently brighter? Maybe? I dunno, my Ric is very bright and it’s a neck through, my Gretsch isn’t terribly bright and it’s a bolt on. Not that this proves anything in my mind other than there are a whole lot of factors that contribute to the overall tone of an instrument, which is really the fun part in the end. Just rock whatever works for you and don’t sweat the little stuff so much

This. Very much this. We're talking art, or at least aesthetics and preference.
 
I'm only now in that camp of think, was only till i got the 2 Epi Birds along with the latest antics of 2 7enders.
They all do something different in ways that i like. So yeah, the neck joint thing is now a non issue for me as well.

Now you've got me started .... A lot of people go on about fretboard wood. For me it's entirely a matter of æsthetics and how it feels to play. It would make more sense to talk about the tone of fretwire, as in the majority of cases, that is one endpoint of a bass string.

It's all about the pickups and strings.
 
Now you've got me started .... A lot of people go on about fretboard wood. For me it's entirely a matter of æsthetics and how it feels to play. It would make more sense to talk about the tone of fretwire, as in the majority of cases, that is one endpoint of a bass string.

It's all about the pickups and strings.

Ha!!, very good point indeed!
 
Now you've got me started .... A lot of people go on about fretboard wood. For me it's entirely a matter of æsthetics and how it feels to play. It would make more sense to talk about the tone of fretwire, as in the majority of cases, that is one endpoint of a bass string.

It's all about the pickups and strings.

I think fretboard wood matters, as does neck wood, because the frets transfer string energy via them. I also think they're a bigger deal on "regular"(what's the word I am looking for here?) guitars than on basses, and even there it's not a big deal to the audience, except that the tonal difference helps make the player happy (or not). Everything interacts with everything else.

But yeah, the real difference is (again) what works for the player and helps them play better. I've only played one maple fretboard guitar that felt right, whereas every rosewood I have played felt good. That translated to rosewood looking and sounding better for me, which means I play them better because I'm not fighting the guitar, which makes them "sound better".

Then again, I'm not Eric Johnson.

Agreed, for the vast majority, it's mainly pickups and strings. After those, I'd say bridge and body play the biggest parts (assuming a well-made bass).
 
@Miles_ONeal -- all those years I played a Ric or Ric copy with the shiny shiny fretboard, and now I can't bear the thought it. We're peculiar animals.

I take your point, and if I was playing through a pristine hifi setup, maybe ... but again, for me, it goes out the window when the 6550s start doing their thing.
 
Just an odd thought that occurred to me. I’ve seen a couple recent new members here almost apologize because they ‘only’ have a humble bolt on Epi. First, if you love your bass, then you’re good to go! Second, I don’t think the bolt on Part is the real difference...maybe some other stuff, but not that. I love the aesthetics of the neckthrough design on my Gibson’s , but I don’t believe it’s superior to a well built bolt on. My Cataldo NR is a bolt on and compares very favorably with my Gibson’s. My Drake is a bolt on too and it’s a pretty high end instrument. If I had an Epi bolt on, I’d just drop some Thunderbucker Ranch pickups in and call it a day, assuming I liked the look, build and feel enough to justify the additional investment
I had a bolt on and let it go. I liked it enough and missed it that I bought another one even after I had two Gibson Thunderbirds. The bolt on is its own great thing, and I sometimes like the beefy neck on my bolt on better than the noodles on the neck throughs. Mine is an early Korean one with a baseball bat that might almost be big enough for Fixer's enormous mitts. I love it for what it is. No need to change any of it.

I apologize to nobody! But you already knew that.
 
@Miles_ONeal -- all those years I played a Ric or Ric copy with the shiny shiny fretboard, and now I can't bear the thought it. We're peculiar animals.

I take your point, and if I was playing through a pristine hifi setup, maybe ... but again, for me, it goes out the window when the 6550s start doing their thing.

Like I said elsewhere, everything interacts wit everything else. I was ignoring the amp side of the equation, but amp and cab figure in heavily as well.
 
The only real problem I have with my Epi IV- which is bolt-on- is that I run out of low notes. Hence the V. I may eventually upgrade the pickups in the IV, but it sounds good enough for now. As good as (or better than) anything else in the price range for my taste.
Drop D-tuner to the rescue! No need for another string. At least not for me.
 
I think fretboard wood matters, as does neck wood, because the frets transfer string energy via them. I also think they're a bigger deal on "regular"(what's the word I am looking for here?) guitars than on basses, and even there it's not a big deal to the audience, except that the tonal difference helps make the player happy (or not). Everything interacts with everything else.

But yeah, the real difference is (again) what works for the player and helps them play better. I've only played one maple fretboard guitar that felt right, whereas every rosewood I have played felt good. That translated to rosewood looking and sounding better for me, which means I play them better because I'm not fighting the guitar, which makes them "sound better".

Then again, I'm not Eric Johnson.

Agreed, for the vast majority, it's mainly pickups and strings. After those, I'd say bridge and body play the biggest parts (assuming a well-made bass).
My observation is that the longest sustain (untimed and therefore purely subjective) is the 2013 EB. The bolt-on Precision sustains well. The P-Bird sustains well, too. Neck through Thunderbirds sustain a little less, even with a Babicz. The Babicz didn't make much of a difference. I just like the way they look. It's all about being shallow!

My fingers don't touch the fingerboard on a fretted instrument if I'm doing it right. Maybe that makes a difference, maybe not. I don't do it right all that much. As far as wood and its influence, I can compare the 2015 Thunderbird to the 2013 EB. Same electronics. If I use the same strings, the EB is a little brighter and "harder" sounding. It's got more primary colors in its sound and they tend to be flatter shapes. The 'Bird has a lot more complex sounds and the sound is rounder shaped. It might be the two examples, because it's subtle.

If I ever learn to use a pick, that's another set of sounds that can come out and are independent of everything else. Run it all through a big ol' ACC stack and it sounds round and juicy instead of dried out and hoarse like it can through an SVT. Me, opinionated? Nah, couldn't be.
 
@Miles_ONeal -- all those years I played a Ric or Ric copy with the shiny shiny fretboard, and now I can't bear the thought it. We're peculiar animals.

I take your point, and if I was playing through a pristine hifi setup, maybe ... but again, for me, it goes out the window when the 6550s start doing their thing.
They should be KT88s in your amp. Just because.
 
I never liked 10"s. I lugged a 4x10" around with a 1 15" for years and it never sounded better than the 2x12 (fender Bassman closed back cab) and the JBL 18" it replaced. I was "upgrading..."

Now I have 3 x12" (1, 1x12" & 1 2x12") and it works really well for me. Covers a lot ground and small enough to move easily.

I inadvertently break a lot of TB, GP rules:
1. No 10" speakers.
2. Mis-matched cab colors
3. Cabs are also from different manufacturers.
4. Thunderbird with no neckdive
5. Thunderbird weighs about 8lbs 10oz, lighter than either of FSO's I own
6. No flats. Ever.

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