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If someone has a lot of cajones that must be a lot of boxes.
Any recommendations for waterslide Thunderbird logos for the pickguard? I mentioned this to the luthier and he said to get one of those and he can apply it and apply a layer of nitro to seal it on. All I've been able to find is this, which may be fine:
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Depending on how you apply it, the more common peel and stick ones would probably work better. But then again, you must be used to the waterslide stuff from your trains?Those look pretty nice Ken. I have a PG project in mind, may try them.
I used these..
2 x Gibson Thunderbird Guitar Headstock Logo Vinyl Decal Sticker Various Colours | eBay
can't recall who in the club was telling me they were Epi logos but after looking very closely at both, I couldn't find the difference..
I think I have one left....will happily send if you want..
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I got 2 gold peel and stick TBirds from @LarryV, only used one. IDK if you can clear coat them.
Yeah, it is slightly raised but not annoyingly so. I guess a well done clear coat would level the entire surfaceDepending on how you apply it, the more common peel and stick ones would probably work better. But then again, you must be used to the waterslide stuff from your trains?
Thanks to both of you for the offer and info. The waterslide is different than the peel and stick ones. They would work, but the luthier said it would eventually come off. If he's willing to coat the pickguard to seal in the logo, I'm all to happy to take him up on it. The peel and stick ones have a slight texture I think, where the waterslide ones don't. At least that's how I understand it.
PM me if you want me to send. My luthier really like the quality and started using them on Firebird projects.Depending on how you apply it, the more common peel and stick ones would probably work better. But then again, you must be used to the waterslide stuff from your trains?
Thanks to both of you for the offer and info. The waterslide is different than the peel and stick ones. They would work, but the luthier said it would eventually come off. If he's willing to coat the pickguard to seal in the logo, I'm all to happy to take him up on it. The peel and stick ones have a slight texture I think, where the waterslide ones don't. At least that's how I understand it.
Is yours the waterslide or the peel and stick? And I think Scott's pickguards are for the original NRs, not the 2013 reissues. They're different.PM me if you want me to send. My luthier really like the quality and started using them on Firebird projects.
Your other option is to get one of GOTs @godofthunder59 engraved ones if he still has any. I got one on my BaCH and it's a beautifully constructed guard.
At least only one was recommended. A pair of cajones as recommendation, that could have been way more awkward...My drummer had an amusing[ly negative] reaction when someone suggested she get a cajon recently.
Depending on how you apply it, the more common peel and stick ones would probably work better. But then again, you must be used to the waterslide stuff from your trains?
Thanks to both of you for the offer and info. The waterslide is different than the peel and stick ones. They would work, but the luthier said it would eventually come off. If he's willing to coat the pickguard to seal in the logo, I'm all to happy to take him up on it. The peel and stick ones have a slight texture I think, where the waterslide ones don't. At least that's how I understand it.
My drummer had an amusing[ly negative] reaction when someone suggested she get a cajon recently.
Context? There was so much that was ahemable that you will have to be more specific...Ahem?
That's slick.They are like what I use for my trains Ken, I airbrush a clear gloss lacquer over the entire model, the waterslide type of decals need a very smooth surface so the film doesn't have any air pockets which would show up as "Blush" A decal setting solution is recommended too, it's a clear liquid that dries quickly, it slightly melts the film into to smooth surface, I usually do a couple passes but that's mostly because the models can have detail that the decal covers. After it's dry I'd clear coat it at least twice to protect the decal.
I made this PG as a replacement for a really trashed '76, using styrene, then airbrushed it metallic purple, cut the Bird from masking tape and airbrushed white over the top, followed by 5-6 coats of clear gloss, it's held up really nicely for at least 8-9 years now.
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I always pity a "percussionist" playing one of those. I always think - poor guy can't afford to buy a cheap set of pots and pans and a couple of wooden spoons. He just grabbed an empty cardboard box from his nearest liquor store.
Great rule of thumb!My band mates and I used to joke around about metal basses (not disparagingly). The rule of thumb we established was that a bass had to have at least 11 sharp points on it to truly qualify as Metal. The BC Rich monsters easily pass the test with 14 sharp points, unfortunately not the case with the TBird.
Empty paint tubs.
I wonder about "household hazardous waste" collection. If I want to get rid of partial cans of latex paint, they are considered household hazardous waste and have to be taken for special disposal. Even if the paint in them is all dried up.Empty paint tubs.
People too lazy to paint?I wonder about "household hazardous waste" collection. If I want to get rid of partial cans of latex paint, they are considered household hazardous waste and have to be taken for special disposal. Even if the paint in them is all dried up.
But, I can throw out empty paint cans and painted wood as ordinary household waste. I wonder why they get any paint cans at the household hazardous waste site at all as you can simply paint a piece of waste wood until the paint is gone and throw both out as ordinary household waste.