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Thunderbird Club

Great story and info!
If you love to tinker you've gotta try different types of strings on your VP Bird. The pups on that bird are incredibly responsive to different types of strings, more so than just about any other bass I own. Cobalt flats on a VP would make a killer Country / Classic rock machine.

I have Chromes on it right now - They're a great first shot - really bright flats. Love them, but they're pretty tight. I was thinking of trying a set of TI Flats, as they're what's on my fretless, but I'll give those Cobalt flats first. I know what to expect with TI flats - almost sloppy floppy - which works well with my playing style. But then - on the T-Bird... not sure they'd be the best match.

Here's where it's good to have different weapons at my disposal. Usually I try to limit myself to 2 basses for any one show.
 
Hey there Bird brothers! I have an opinion question!!

If one were to want to add a strap button extension via a plate from the neck heel, instead of adding a post and button to the upper bout itself, which of these configurations do you think would be more useful especially to combat the “bass rolling away from you” phenomenon? Mimicking where it would be and how it would be oriented as if you *were* using a post and button coming out from the bout itself (left side of pic) or placing the button facing forward from a flat plate (right side of pic)?

Thanks!!

View attachment 3486507

fullsizeoutput_12ef.jpeg
 
Hey there Bird brothers! I have an opinion question!!

If one were to want to add a strap button extension via a plate from the neck heel, instead of adding a post and button to the upper bout itself, which of these configurations do you think would be more useful especially to combat the “bass rolling away from you” phenomenon? Mimicking where it would be and how it would be oriented as if you *were* using a post and button coming out from the bout itself (left side of pic) or placing the button facing forward from a flat plate (right side of pic)?

Thanks!!

View attachment 3486507
The photo on the LEFT is a more 'standard' approach and would work with swapping straps between basses. Option 2 looks CLEANER to me, but with the strap attached, I think that the base of the strap would have an odd appearance. For that reason, I like the left option better overall.
 
Hey there Bird brothers! I have an opinion question!!

If one were to want to add a strap button extension via a plate from the neck heel, instead of adding a post and button to the upper bout itself, which of these configurations do you think would be more useful especially to combat the “bass rolling away from you” phenomenon? Mimicking where it would be and how it would be oriented as if you *were* using a post and button coming out from the bout itself (left side of pic) or placing the button facing forward from a flat plate (right side of pic)?

Thanks!!

View attachment 3486507

I do not feel a need to combat the body roll. But if I did, I would move the rear strap button higher. That is what Dingwall did (in a prettier way) to deal with roll and neck dive.
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If you get the rear strap button above the midline, (Sir Issac) Newton says that the body won't roll.

Edit:
something like the xs mark here
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I do not feel a need to combat the body roll. But if I did, I would move the rear strap button higher. That is what Dingwall did (in a prettier way) to deal with roll and neck dive.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

If you get the rear strap button above the midline, (Sir Issac) Newton says that the body won't roll.
That is a good point and I love the way the Dingers handle that!
 
rocknroll, man, thanks for the input!

I've mounted the Strap-Lok strap peg on both sides and it works as well either version. Advantage mounting it facing out allows using a standard positioned Strap-Lok system strap.
 
Hey there Bird brothers! I have an opinion question!!

If one were to want to add a strap button extension via a plate from the neck heel, instead of adding a post and button to the upper bout itself, which of these configurations do you think would be more useful especially to combat the “bass rolling away from you” phenomenon? Mimicking where it would be and how it would be oriented as if you *were* using a post and button coming out from the bout itself (left side of pic) or placing the button facing forward from a flat plate (right side of pic)?

Thanks!!

View attachment 3486507
I Like the looks of the one on the right best. The one on the left looks like I'd be constantly snagging it with my shirt sleeve.

That said, a more simple solution most of us have had luck with in regards to the top of the bass body tilting away from the player, is to just run the bridge end of the guitar strap over the front of the bass vs behind the bass. This holds the bass body tight against the player, no forward flip.

I've also read here in the club where some have moved the bridge end strap pin up a few inches to solve the forward tilt. Also, adding a second bridge end strap pin a couple of inches above the stock location and then using both bridge end strap pins seems to work.
 
I Like the looks of the one on the right best. The one on the left looks like I'd be constantly snagging it with my shirt sleeve.

That said, a more simple solution most of us have had luck with in regards to the top of the bass body tilting away from the player, is to just run the bridge end of the guitar strap over the front of the bass vs behind the bass. This holds the bass body tight against the player, no forward flip.

I've also read here in the club where some have moved the bridge end strap pin up a few inches to solve the forward tilt. Also, adding a second bridge end strap pin a couple of inches above the stock location and then using both bridge end strap pins seems to work.
Yeah sometimes I do the strap over the wing thing but it looks and feels goofy to me =0)
 
I Like the looks of the one on the right best. The one on the left looks like I'd be constantly snagging it with my shirt sleeve.

That said, a more simple solution most of us have had luck with in regards to the top of the bass body tilting away from the player, is to just run the bridge end of the guitar strap over the front of the bass vs behind the bass. This holds the bass body tight against the player, no forward flip.

I've also read here in the club where some have moved the bridge end strap pin up a few inches to solve the forward tilt. Also, adding a second bridge end strap pin a couple of inches above the stock location and then using both bridge end strap pins seems to work.

As I wouldn't be adding my extension to a vintage T-bird, this ^ is a simple effective solution. On my T-bird body related builds - the extension solves the problem so there is no need for further 'grounding' of the body.
 
As I wouldn't be adding my extension to a vintage T-bird, this ^ is a simple effective solution. On my T-bird body related builds - the extension solves the problem so there is no need for further 'grounding' of the body.
This is what I do with my Vintage-Pro T-Bird. Not really wanting to add any holes - the only changes I'd be interested in entertaining are all cosmetic and reversible.
 
Yeah sometimes I do the strap over the wing thing but it looks and feels goofy to me =0)

I've used that technique since the mid 70's to manage my '64 II and never once felt anything but satisfied with its resulting playing security.

Strap-loop in action
The Sean Conneries @ Winters Tavern 9:24:17.JPG
 
Hey there Bird brothers! I have an opinion question!!

If one were to want to add a strap button extension via a plate from the neck heel, instead of adding a post and button to the upper bout itself, which of these configurations do you think would be more useful especially to combat the “bass rolling away from you” phenomenon? Mimicking where it would be and how it would be oriented as if you *were* using a post and button coming out from the bout itself (left side of pic) or placing the button facing forward from a flat plate (right side of pic)?

Thanks!!

View attachment 3486507
I've done the second idea, except it was parallel to, and directly behind the neck. You couldn't see it from the front, and it worked like a charm. I routed mine into the body and it traveled up through and past the neck heel, up behind the neck until around the 12th fret.
Edit... this was not on Tbird, though I'm figuring the results would be just as good.
 
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I've done the second idea, except it was parallel to, and directly behind the neck. You couldn't see it from the front, and it worked like a charm. I routed mine into the body and it traveled up through and past the neck heel, up behind the neck until around the 12th fret.
Was the strap button facing forward toward the neck, backward toward you, or leftward toward the headstock?
 
Was the strap button facing forward toward the neck, backward toward you, or leftward toward the headstock?
The strap button faced me.

Also, I moved the rear button up onto the back side of the body, and toward the top of the body... the rear strap button ended up just inside of the belly curve. Moved the nut/headstock closer to my center, was great for my left hand, as I had a tendon issue.

The bass stayed wherever I put it.
 
Has anyone tested the balance on a P or J type bass after moving the strap button to the neck heel?
Not on a 7ender, but a 2013 Gibson EB has a similar enough shape that it can be a stand-in. I moved the button from the upper horn to the heel of the neck. The balance is about the same when tipped up a bit where I like it, but you can tip it up farther that way. The horn mounted button is a limiting factor to how vertical you can hang the bass. The horn also gets in the way, but that's a different issue.

[edit] That shape will dive if you move the button to the neck heel and expect it to stay flat horizontal. Tipping it up is the key to balance with the altered strap position.
 

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