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Thunderbird Club

#196,225
Chucky Stiletti said:
define better...depends on what you are looking for....you would be affecting you cutoff freq..
Click to expand...

ok, how is one vs the other responsible for cutting-off high frequencies or low frequencies? (if that is relevant - sorry for my ignorance here)
 
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#196,226
JIO said:
Looking good - you'll want to bevel the sides a bit. You can make a jig by connecting a #11 Exacto blade to a piece of wood at the same angle as your original as a guide for the correct angle.

View attachment 4561581
Click to expand...

Yes, I hadn't done any countersink of the holes in the last pic - Have now!
The screw just below the pickup should not have a countersink as it's for the pickup cover ( this bass actually has both covers and it's mute, less the felt pads.)

pKeJvxc.jpg
 
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#196,227
JIO said:
ok, how is one vs the other responsible for cutting-off high frequencies or low frequencies? (if that is relevant - sorry for my ignorance here)
Click to expand...
capacitors like to pass high frequencies and try to impede lower frequencies. the larger the value of a capacitor is (.047 is larger than a .022 for example) the less it will impede lower frequencies….it follows that if a cap is in series with the jack, the larger that cap, the more signal (more lows) will get through. if conversely, the capacitor is in parallel with the jack, it’s going to “steer” frequencies to ground and not allow them out of the instrument. for simplicity of the explanation, the pots act as a volume control to these signals..
 
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#196,228
GonePlaid said:
Harrumph! Can't be that great if ya gotta mic it.;):smug:
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GonePlaid said:
Nah, I mean the 65/67. The Coffin Case is kinda unwieldy, and the gig bag ain't protective enuff. There ain't no 2021 in my foreseeable future.
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That particular Coffin Case is HUGE!!! It does a great job of protecting the NR's, but it is clunky.
 
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#196,230
Chucky Stiletti said:
once saw a dude make a capacitor out of cigarette pack foil and wax paper for a broken radio in Jamaica in the early 80’s…….it worked…:woot:
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I played around with something similar as a teen, but had no idea to determine what the capacitance would be and gave up.

Coolest home made cap I saw was oil and foil in a plastic tub as part of a 1MV tesla coil science project. But they ran out of corona dope so were getting sparcs from the top 20% of the coil, meaning more like 800kV. How wimpy. 8^) There's a cool story about that for another time.
 
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#196,233
JIO said:
I successfully merged two different pots into a stacked-pot, a 250k/100k - a stacked combo that isn't available. (250k for a P-pu/100k for the lipstick pu) The trick was the (white plastic) shaft interface. Some pots have a 'slot' shaft (lower one in this pic), and some have a 1/2 moon shape opening. (as the other had) I glued in a plastic cap cut flush from a superglue tube (shown) and drilled, filed and x-acto'd a correct opening. Once that was done I superglued the two pots together.

View attachment 4561394
Top cap/resistor is a treble bleed. V/V T - It was mostly successful but a P-pu has more winds than a lipstick so they will always be unmatched in output. I could have gone w/a stereo preamp but chose not to to keep it passive.
View attachment 4561419 View attachment 4561430
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Very good info!

Engle said:
Strange how all the strings are off the slots in the bridge saddles. I wonder if the bridge is mounted off center?
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There’s a lot going on with that bridge…
D132D9D0-EA04-4652-9ABC-1D8852234DE1.jpeg

The strings are all off, but might just have been pulled aside for the photos. At least two different types of saddles used. The E and A string saddles look to be the wrong saddles for those strings as the groove on each is quite small compared to the G and D grooves. The E string spring looks like it might be a larger diameter than the rest. Is that countersunk screw in the center of the bridge supposed to be there?
 
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#196,234
GBassNorth said:
There’s a lot going on with that bridge…
View attachment 4561823
The strings are all off, but might just have been pulled aside for the photos. At least two different types of saddles used. The E and A string saddles look to be the wrong saddles for those strings as the groove on each is quite small compared to the G and D grooves. The E string spring looks like it might be a larger diameter than the rest. Is that countersunk screw in the center of the bridge supposed to be there?
Click to expand...

that's messed up
 
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#196,235
Chucky Stiletti said:
capacitors like to pass high frequencies and try to impede lower frequencies. the larger the value of a capacitor is (.047 is larger than a .022 for example) the less it will impede lower frequencies….it follows that if a cap is in series with the jack, the larger that cap, the more signal (more lows) will get through. if conversely, the capacitor is in parallel with the jack, it’s going to “steer” frequencies to ground and not allow them out of the instrument. for simplicity of the explanation, the pots act as a volume control to these signals..
Click to expand...

Thanks - that helps clarify. :thumbsup:
 
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#196,237
WillyW said:
OK, serious question, What does the collective think something like this should fetch?

no pics of the "non-original hard case"

I do believe if I were to get an older bass I'd get sumfin refinished or sumfin needs work
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I don't keep up with NR prices, but I didn't think that was too far off if the guy was flexible--assuming the pickup checks out and there were no real concerns. I'd rather not have poly, but if the price was right I wouldn't walk away. More info would help with a sale. Some answers to good questions wold need to be satisfactory first. The odd things you find the less you might pay. But the guy may not move much or any.

Refins are a generally a good value in my book for someone who just wants a vintage bass to play but doesn't want to sink a crazy amount of money into it, then maybe not play it much. I've got a '58 P, '62 J, '64 P that have have the bodies only refinished by pros in lacquer. I got those at a "reasonable" prices--had they not be refinished I would not have paid or been able to pay the prices they would have commanded. The '55 P, was refinished decades ago as well, but I've had that long before prices went to four digits.
 
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#196,238
JIO said:
Looking good - you'll want to bevel the sides a bit. You can make a jig by connecting a #11 Exacto blade to a piece of wood at the same angle as your original as a guide for the correct angle.

View attachment 4561581
Click to expand...
Out of curiosity, how would you suggest aging a pickguard? I've never needed to do it, but wondered what you thought. I've heard of some pretty weird methods.
 
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#196,240
GBassNorth said:
Very good info!


There’s a lot going on with that bridge…
View attachment 4561823
The strings are all off, but might just have been pulled aside for the photos. At least two different types of saddles used. The E and A string saddles look to be the wrong saddles for those strings as the groove on each is quite small compared to the G and D grooves. The E string spring looks like it might be a larger diameter than the rest. Is that countersunk screw in the center of the bridge supposed to be there?
Click to expand...
And all the saddles are as far forward as possible. The intonation issue could probably be remedied with one of Scott’s Badbird bridges.
I suppose one could ask for more pictures, but I’d want to see that bass in person before deciding how much to pay for it.
 
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