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Tiny Boy Basses

Would replacing the pickup fix this?
Whoa. Unless you don't like the basic tone, no reason to do that just yet.

[I'll assume the control is wired correctly in the first place, since you say it doesn't have *much* effect, as opposed to *any at all*: ]
First thing to do to the tone control is try replacing the capacitor with one of different value; second is a potentiometer with a different value (say, 250K instead of 500K), or taper (audio vs. linear). Finally...go back to experimenting with different cap values, to see how they interact with the new pot.
 
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Whoa. Unless you don't like the basic tone, no reason to do that just yet.

[I'll assume the control is wired correctly in the first place, since you say it doesn't have *much* effect, as opposed to *any at all*: ]
First thing to do to the tone control is try replacing the capacitor with one of different value; second is a potentiometer with a different value (say, 250K instead of 500K), or taper (audio vs. linear). Finally...go back to experimenting with different cap values, to see how they interact with the new pot.

i was just this morning reading about how the tone control works. I came to that same conclusion that you suggest. Thanks for the input. Great to have the confirmation.
I do like the way the TB fits and feels and sounds.
 
Norm, I like flats and use them on my Fender Jazz. I have not used them on the Tiny Boy. However, you can buy flats for the Tiny Boy at the following: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]. This is the new Tiny Boy American distributor in Hawaii (wish it was closer to me).
 
Norm, I like flats and use them on my Fender Jazz. I have not used them on the Tiny Boy. However, you can buy flats for the Tiny Boy at the following: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]. This is the new Tiny Boy American distributor in Hawaii (wish it was closer to me).
Yep. Got mine from Kanile’a as well. We love the folks at Kanile’a.
The flats are a bit pricey though. ok. I’m looking for less expensive flats for it, though.
Thanks for the input.
 
I’m looking for less expensive flats for it, though.
I'm aware of exactly three off-the-shelf ultra-short flatwound sets:

1) the La Bella/Gold Tone MBLS (also known as MBSLS on the eBay):
MBLS MicroBass LaBella Flat Wound Strings
Invalid Link Removed
These would only fit if you modified the instrument (drill through-body holes just behind the bridge), because they're 28" long from ball-end to taper. Also, I'd expect them to be pretty stiff, and you may find the E string to get noticeably chorusy past the first 5 frets or so (just my hunch);

2) the longer version of the Galli/Kala nylon-core, chrome-steel flatwound uke bass strings, the KA-BASS-4FW-23inch
Invalid Link Removed
26.5" long ball-to-taper (which is probably exactly, or very similar to, the distance between ball and E-string tuning post on the Tiny Boy). Nylon cores as said, but their wrap amounts to enough ferromagnetic metal for them to work fine with mag pickups. It has biiig gauges, so nut slot embiggening is in order, and you'd need to ascertain if the 130 passes through the back of the bridge;

3) this other, similar (also nyloncore, only chrome-nickel flatwound instead of steel, and normal-gauged) set by Pyramid:
https://www.thomannmusic.com/pyramid_235_acoustic_bass_gs_miniset.htm
Tensions are going to be lower than the Kala/Galli set (it's like discarding the latter's low E, moving the other 3 strings one slot, then adding a thinner yet G); like them, these should work through magnetic pickups, but unlike them I've seen no report that positively confirms they do (and with decent output). Winding length is 25.5" ball to silk.
 
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I'm aware of exactly three off-the-shelf ultra-short flatwound sets:

1) the La Bella/Gold Tone MBLS (also known as MBSLS on the eBay):
MBLS MicroBass LaBella Flat Wound Strings
Invalid Link Removed
These would only fit if you modified the instrument (drill through-body holes just behind the bridge), because they're 28" long from ball-end to taper. Also, I'd expect them to be pretty stiff, and you may find the E string to get noticeably chorusy past the first 5 frets or so (just my hunch);

2) the longer version of the Galli/Kala nylon-core, chrome-steel flatwound uke bass strings, the KA-BASS-4FW-23inch
Invalid Link Removed
26.5" long ball-to-taper (which is probably exactly, or very similar to, the distance between ball and E-string tuning post on the Tiny Boy). Nylon cores as said, but their wrap amounts to enough ferromagnetic metal for them to work fine with mag pickups. It has biiig gauges, so nut slot embiggening is in order, and you'd need to ascertain if the 130 passes through the back of the bridge;

3) this other, similar (also nyloncore, only chrome-nickel flatwound instead of steel, and normal-gauged) set by Pyramid:
https://www.thomannmusic.com/pyramid_235_acoustic_bass_gs_miniset.htm
Tensions are going to be lower than the Kala/Galli set (it's like discarding the latter's low E, moving the other 3 strings one slot, then adding a thinner yet G); like them, these should work through magnetic pickups, but unlike them I've seen no report that positively confirms they do (and with decent output). Winding length is 25.5" ball to silk.
 
...the longer version of the Galli/Kala nylon-core, chrome-steel flatwound uke bass strings, the KA-BASS-4FW-23inch... Nylon cores as said, but their wrap amounts to enough ferromagnetic metal for them to work fine with mag pickups...

3) this other, similar (also nylon core, only chrome-nickel flatwound instead of steel, and normal-gauged) set by Pyramid... these should work through magnetic pickups, but unlike them I've seen no report that positively confirms they do (and with decent output). Winding length is 25.5" ball to silk.

I've tried the Kala/Galli 23" nylon core flats on a couple of my magnetic mini bass and found that there is not quite enough metal, I had to crank up my volume controls to maximum, which was barely enough. I had custom 24" flats made by Pyramid instead.
 
I just received and installed the Pyramid 235’s. It cost a bit to have them shipped from Germany. But, they are a perfect fit for my TB. The pickup seems to actually work. I really like how they feel.
I'm pleased to know that (might try them myself sometime), and thank you very much for reporting back. I hope the total cost still kept them competitive with the hundred-buck Dogals.

I've tried the Kala/Galli 23" nylon core flats on a couple of my magnetic mini bass and found that there is not quite enough metal, I had to crank up my volume controls to maximum, which was barely enough.
And I'm partially surprised to read this: going by your earlier reports - see the earliest here - it seemed like turning up the volume control (some) did the trick to an acceptable, not just...bare, degree. I guess I'll stop suggesting the Galli/Kala to mag pickup minibass owners.
I had custom 24" flats made by Pyramid instead.
I remember [0]=266333']reading about your ordering custom-length Pyramid Gold steel-core flats, and asking you about them. I hadn't picked up the part about them fixing the low output issue from your answer, only the no-silk one:
Thanks sir. Speaking of flatwounds, are the Pyramid custom-length flats (that you recently got) nylon-core like the Galli/Kala, or steel-core like the La Bella/Gold Tone? Is the Pyramid order intended to replace either, because of length/fitment problems, or just as an experiment/exploration into alternative sources?
The Pyramids are all metal. I wanted custom 24" to fit my 24" scale Hadean solid body bass ukes, and also liked that I could ask to not add silk.
 
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I'm pleased to know that (might try them myself sometime), and thank you very much for reporting back. I hope the total cost still kept them competitive with the hundred-buck Dogals.
..
Yes, indeed. The price difference was quite acceptable. The only thing I’m concerned with now is the difference in string tension. But, Hosco does not recommend installing Dugal flats on their ‘P’ bass. I’m assuming that it’s because of potential tension increase?
 
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But, Hosco does not recommend installing Dugal flats on their ‘P’ bass.
Have you got a link for that? Do you mean they advise against using flats on the P-pickup Tiny Boys, as opposed to the JJ models? If so, my wildarse guess is that they do for tonal reasons. Neck specs look to be the same throughout the TBB product line (string number being equal), so there's no reason why one model would be sturdier than the other; besides, we're talking 40mm-wide, supershort necks with truss rods: unless strings are gauge 70-160 (which they aren't) or made of depleted uranium (which I very much doubt), they can't possibly present a risk to them.
 
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Have you got a link for that? Do you mean they advise against using flats on the P-pickup Tiny Boys, as opposed to the JJ models? If so, my wildarse guess is that they do for tonal reasons. Neck specs look to be the same throughout the TBB product line (string number being equal), so there's no reason why one model would be sturdier than the other; besides, we're talking 40mm-wide, supershort necks with truss rods: unless strings are gauge 70-160 (which they aren't) or made of depleted uranium (which I very much doubt), they can't possibly present a risk to them.

oops. I misspoke. I went back in my old emails and found…

Kanile’a informed me that Hosco would not recommend using flats on their fretted basses.
Then I contacted Hosco. Ken at Hosco said that using the flats on their fretted basses would shorten the life of the strings. These Dugals are made specifically for their fretless basses.

I’ve also heard from another source (bass teacher) that flats typically last a lot longer than rounds.

I glad that you asked so I would double check my sources. Must be my covid brain or simply my older brain (‘cause I don’t have the covid.)
 
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