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Troll du jour.

Thanks. I've been told some whoppers in my time. And from guys who work in the aeronautics industry, what's more. And I've seen them pour Invalid Link Removed into their donks, and into mine. :confused:

Thanks again, for the good oil.


There's little to no load on an engine at startup, so there's no real "wear" happening at that point. Plus, you would be shocked at how much oil hangs around in the bearings when an engine isn't running.
 
Well, IIRC, synthetic engine oil (which is vegetable based, by the way - or was, originally) was developed for use in jet turbines, which required a higher temperature tolerance than piston engines. I think the film strength requirements were different, too. Anyway...
I currently use synthetic oil in my car, and 2 of my 3 motorcycles. In the car (a VW pump-rail diesel) and one bike (BMW K1200S), the synthetic oil from the dealer (isn't that nice - for them) is the only oil that meets manufacturer's requirements (isn't that nice - for them); so... :meh: In my Harley Sportster, I run Harley's synthetic because I have 40+ years of empirical, owner evidence that engines - especially air cooled engines - are happier, and last longer, when I run synthetic oil. I've had the Sportster for 10 years now, here in Vegas; and I know that it runs cooler with synthetic oil. All I have to do is look at the thermometer/dip stick in the oil tank to tell me so.. And, I did run synthetic oil in my BMW GS Adventure, until it's last service. The shop put BMW's petroleum-based oil in it, because BMW no longer has 20w-50 synthetic. And, it runs noticeably hotter than it did before, according to the oil temp gauge. It will be getting switched to 20w-50 Mobil 1 before it goes on any trips this year. I'm honestly kinda worried about how it would fare, in the summer, otherwise. And, for the record; I have NEVER had a clutch slippage problem with synthetic oil, in any motorcycle that ran the clutch in the engine oil. Not saying that it can't happen; or that no one ever had a problem with it. But, in 40+years of riding all kinds of bikes; I've never had a problem...:)
MIJ clutches up until 82 or so were made with fibres that weren't synthetic tolerant.
 
There's little to no load on an engine at startup, so there's no real "wear" happening at that point. Plus, you would be shocked at how much oil hangs around in the bearings when an engine isn't running.
Partly true IME. We have a chronic problem on Hyundai Entourage engines when folks buy aftermarket oil filters with crappy o rings. The slightly smaller o rings allow the oil to drain out of the filter leaving the engine with less oil pressure at startup. This temporary lack of oil is causing excessive wear in the valve train over time. I've been using factory filters since finding this out.
 
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LOL, I put motor oil on my bike chain, and automatic transmission fluid in the gear hub. Don't tell the bike forums. ;)
Oh but you're missing out on the fine hand-blended chain lubricants: Tête de la Course Chain Lubricant

I actually use NFS, it smells like bar and chain oil, a few drops will do an entire chain and lasts a good while even in PA muck/weather. It's pricy (especially compared to motor oil) but I'm willing to spend $ for durability/reliability because of how gross the roads can get over here. I eat through jockey wheel bearings, so full ceramic versions that are basically indestructible pique my interest as well.
NixFrixShun Ultimate Bicycle Chainlube
 
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Partly true IME. We have a chronic problem on Hyundai Entourage engines when folk by aftermarket oil filters with chappy o rings. The slightly smaller o rings allow the oil to drain out of the filter leaving the engine with less oil pressure at startup. This temporary lack of oil is causing excessive wear in the valve train over time. I've been using factory filters since finding this out.
Same with Hyundai Beta engines, used in a bunch of Hyundais and Kias. I had heard they actually have a valve of some sort?
 
MIJ clutches up until 82 or so were made with fibres that weren't synthetic tolerant.

Back in the (Honda) CX500 days when I was doing all the engine rebuilding for a Honda dealer, one of the few things Honda officially came out against was synthetic oil for their motorcycles. Don't know what they say about it today, but if they are anything like they used to be, I'm sure there current production engines would run on cod liver oil if that was the accepted standard.
 
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Oh but you're missing out on the fine hand-blended chain lubricants: Tête de la Course Chain Lubricant

I actually use NFS, it smells like bar and chain oil, a few drops will do an entire chain and lasts a good while even in PA muck/weather. It's pricy (especially compared to motor oil) but I'm willing to spend $ for durability/reliability because of how gross the roads can get over here. I eat through jockey wheel bearings, so full ceramic versions that are basically indestructible pique my interest as well.
NixFrixShun Ultimate Bicycle Chainlube
Amusingly, I use bar & chain oil on my winter bike, to coat exposed metal parts. My winter chain lube has some kerosene mixed into it, so it flows quicker. When the kerosene evaporates, then it's just motor oil. I lube my chain every few days during the winter.
 
Meaning the presence of metal particles?

Yeah.. That's my thing. I drive an old car weekends. I been told by every gear head I know to swap to synthetic.. But engine wear invariably means metal or other particles in the oil. I don't want them there. So regardless the lifecycle of the oil...... I want those hitchhikers out of my oil pan and the oil, synthetic or not cannot eliminate unwanted gremlins in the oil pan.
 
Would starting a thread about motor oil upset as many people here as it does on bike fora?
Synthetic all the way.:D

That has been my practice since 1977. I have studied it all and the evidence I have found shows that it is superior. And I consider it absolutely mandatory for any turbocharged or supercharged vehicle.

Change more often than you need to; I use 5K change intervals for oil and filter in most cars.
 
Same with Hyundai Beta engines, used in a bunch of Hyundais and Kias. I had heard they actually have a valve of some sort?

In the case of the Entourage, there's no valve - the filter is the bare pleated paper filter - no can - an two o-rings. The small o-ring on the aftermarket filters is too small.

The filters I've seen with valves have the valve inside the can to do the same function - keep the oil from draining out of the filter back into the pan. Having the filter full of oil makes the pressure come up a little faster and the oil start circulating through the engine a little faster.
 
I run conventional oil in everything from my $200 daily driver to my 10 second Camaro. Even the 7 second Corvette we ran in IHRA and NSCA classes ran conventional with an ordinary spin on filter, complete with bypass and a wet sump pan. It was only after we picked up sponsorshis from Royal Purple, Pro-Filer and Nitrous Express that we switched to synthetic and a dry sump.

Oil life monitors are based off of time, temperature and engine load. Short trip driving in the winter is harder on oil than highway cruising on a summer day. I've seen the "change oil soon" light come on as soon as 3000 miles and as late as 9000 miles on some GM cars. Myself I would not go anywhere over 6000 miles, regardless of what kind of oil I was using. It's not the oil that wears out, it's the additives in the oil that do. Other than the Camaro, I change oil at 5000 mile intervals.

Seven second Corvette??? Wow, we talking seven second quarter mile????.. May I come play in your garage?
 
Seven second Corvette??? Wow, we talking seven second quarter mile????.. May I come play in your garage?

Yep, 7 seconds in the 1/4 mile with a cast intake, single 4 barrel carb and two stages of nitrous (plate and a fogger, although we rarely used the plate). On engine alone it made 1100 horses and with the spray engaged it was a little over 1500 hp. Eventually we swapped heads, put a sheet metal intake on it with split Dominators and one big azz fogger and ran 6.80's with it.

The car was originally built and funded by five of us in a two car garage. Everything from building the jig, welding the entire chassis together, body fitment, engine build, wiring etc was done by us.

I think this pic was from 2004-2005 or so.....

vette.jpg
 
Yep, 7 seconds in the 1/4 mile with a cast intake, single 4 barrel carb and two stages of nitrous (plate and a fogger, although we rarely used the plate). On engine alone it made 1100 horses and with the spray engaged it was a little over 1500 hp. Eventually we swapped heads, put a sheet metal intake on it with split Dominators and one big azz fogger and ran 6.80's with it.

The car was originally built and funded by five of us in a two car garage. Everything from building the jig, welding the entire chassis together, body fitment, engine build, wiring etc was done by us.

I think this pic was from 2004-2005 or so.....

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Brother that is hauling the mail. That is way cool. I play in my garage with old Mopars. Sure don't produce horsepower like that. Way way cool.
 

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Brother that is hauling the mail. That is way cool. I play in my garage with old Mopars. Sure don't produce horsepower like that. Way way cool.

I've always been a GM guy at heart, although I do have a lifted Dodge truck (that I only paid $600 for). Anyway, I left the 'Vette racing team in the mid 2000's to pursue my own racing interests.

My Camaro.... all steel (other than the hood), real windows, everything works (lights, wipers etc....), full interior, street tires and mufflers. Best et is 10.30 @ 130 mph. And to keep this on topic, conventional oil and an AC Delco oil filter.

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