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Tuxedo Bass #3 Coming Up

I see no reason why not - the Jag body is thick enough to take it I think, looking here at my VM-Jag on the wall.

You'll have to make a mental pix of where and how you want the controls mounted though. The body gets kinda thin out toward the edges and the routing will have to be filled in to accommodate a paint job without a PG.
 
Ya gonna try to do a couple at a time? You know where the link to the whole process is?

I got it for ya here:: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

That might help with the whole evolution. Who knows - the wood underneath might be good enough to finish showing the grain and all through a clear coat!

If you're gonna mod a VM or a CV - this'll help alleviate some of the rumors about particle board or MDF bodies too. Or confirm them.
 
Just a quick pix before I crawl back into bed:::

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Still waiting for the B/Y/B pg material!

I get it, now that I see a picture of the jack plate mounted. Very cool man :bassist:
 
OK - the football jack plate is OUT! There ain't NO place for it on this bass anywhere!

Maybe WIFI? I dunnow. But for the moment, the Strat jack plate looks like it will have to work for a while. I can always build another plate to cover the hole that is required to get it into the cutout.

OK - that's for later. Today I got my nose all out of joint and decided to fire it up and hear how it sounds.

Making NO adjustments on the amp that I normally use, not turning any knobs - and after I silently intonated and tuned it (the action's a tad too high yet - more on that later) this thing has some SUPER GOMBIES!

It is very powerful! The neck p'ups are the Squier VM-Jaguar ones from one of the TB regulars (take a bow resident TB Nude Guitar Photographer) and they absolutley rock with power and authority!

The lower p'ups (from TC2112) - they are Bass Mods vintage Alnicos, and they are truly inspiring!

Blending them is just angels singing!

IF I ever see the new PG material I ordered (Black/Yellow/Black) then I can at last finish this bass.

Still - I have mixed emotions about stripping the headstock again and applying a special touch to it to keep the Fender knee-breakers away from my door. I got some really neat 'stuff' from StewMac for just this very reason - and I think it'll be icing on the cake here.
 
Funny that a couple of folks don't like it, because I think the strat jack adds a lot to the overall feel of the bass. Differ'nt strokes fer differ'nt folks I guess. I'm thinking it's going to look pretty good when the pickguard's on...
 
True dat, and I am, as said, waiting for further updates. Still dig the"alternative" lumber, still digging the color, and still digging the obviously skilled work involved.
Also still waiting on the B/Y/B PG material.. ;)

Glad to hear it sounds good!

wraub
 
...so I take it the S/P wiring schematic works perfectly? :D

Well, now I can officially store that wiring as a legit one.

I don't really know yet. I've not had it running in stock form - but what is happening is all good so far.

The dual volumes seem to work as my Jazz does with the S/P set up well enough, using that toggle switch to bring it IN or OUT of Parallel. So really I haven't had it running long enough to find out any idiosyncrasies yet. :D
 
Funny that a couple of folks don't like it, because I think the strat jack adds a lot to the overall feel of the bass. Differ'nt strokes fer differ'nt folks I guess. I'm thinking it's going to look pretty good when the pickguard's on...

I agree, I think it fills up alot of that empty space in the cavity in a nice way. I also like it with the chrome hardware, I think black would take a way from the look.
 
OK - it's a happening thing now - I stripped the headstock to modify it.

I'm adding triple binding to it to match the PG.

Here's the interesting part: I can't wait until the Black/Yellow/Black PG shows up (it's terminally backordered) so I'm going with the B/W/B version which I have a lot of right now anyway.

Here's the start of the first layer after I Dremel'd out the groove around the head::

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Lot's o' rubber bands and I forced some toothpicks at the lowest part of the binding to force it to lie flat against the routed area so there's no air gaps or weak attachment points.

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I think that leaving the binding as wide as it was is a good idea here, as that way the rubber bands won't get into the glue as easily and possibly stick to and discolor the binding or the base wood.

I may get to put the second/white layer on tomorrow if the electrical inspection of the cabin I'm rewiring is OK - it is - I have no fear of that but I gotta be there for any questions.

I'm retired and I really hate working - but it's for a friend in a bind and I'm just a big sucker I guess. Besides he likes my anal-retentive attitude about electricity.
 
Uh-oh, I hope that works out for you; I've always rolled the binding up into a spiral and then sanded it to the correct height before gluing it to the guitar. The one time I did it like you have here, I ended up having to redo it because getting the binding down the the right height after it was glued on was brutal at best. IIRC, it chipped and cracked in a couple of spots and came unglued in another area. Here's hoping you don't have that problem....
 
Yawn! - Breakfast down - two coffees and let's see what's in the email bag ---------------
: Yvarg:: Why not just carefully use a razor as a scraper to get the binding down to the same height as the rest of the headstock? It's worked for me with all my bound bodies (electric basses and acoustic guitars).
Yeah - I thought just using an X-acto knife would work to scrape it down carefully - accent on 'carefully'.

It's been over twelve hours so the glue should be a-holding well enough to see how it goes by now.

I'm not going to have to get that electrical inspection today after all - the inspector called and cancelled for the day - whoopee! I can work on Tux #3!