Here we go boyz n girlz...
I love this bass, it's an awesome player! Special thanks to @JEDI BASS
I love this bass, it's an awesome player! Special thanks to @JEDI BASS
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U.S. Peavey Club
- Thread starter Soundchaser11460
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Mine's in the shop. At least everything except the body is. So the best I can do is neck pocket to pup cavity = 4 3/8"
Hope that's helpful.
Cool, I'll see if I can get what I need from that. Thanks!
So why is the neck at the shop?
I waited for some rings to pop up, as my originals had cracks. Found this company for my rings. They seem expensive at about $40 a set, but they are made well AND they came in green, which made them more than worth it. When I got mine a couple years ago, they were about $30 a set.
Peavey T-40 Bass Guitar Neck & Bridge Pickup Ring by sliversurfer on Shapeways
Some US libraries have access to 3d printers.
Go to "thingiverse" , download the T-40 pickup ring file. That's a free download BTW Take it to library and ask them to print up two. Could be as little as $10 for the pair.
Might be best I don't mention the pallets shipped to Corona from Roswell Pickups in Korea, along with US pickups.
This guy makes lots of trim rings in lots of different materials, his work is great.
He's done T40 rings, T20 rings for lots of people.
He made me a polished aluminum custom one for my Peavey ThunderFury.
Prices are also very reasonable.
Frets On The Net Home
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It splits the pickups to the inside coils. Those coils, in parallel, in that location has a very convincing passive Stingray tone. Plus, it's hum cancelling! Win win!
I had a Eureka moment once when discussing splitting T40 pickups with a tech here on this site. They typically split to the bridge side coil, and since they are all wired and wound the same, that has the hum since it's two similar coils. I applied ABY switch logic and came up with a plan to split one pickup as T40 pickups typically split and ground out the opposite coil on the other pickup. In theory, this applies RW/RP coils, so they should hum cancel. Drew this up, went down and rewired the bass and was happily surprised with the results!
My drawing splits to the inside coils. Just apply the bridge PU wiring to the neck, and vice versa, if you want to split to the outside coils.
I bought a neck from Amber that I'm having defretted, so that I can convert the G Bass as needed. I didn't want to defret the original neck. I've been successful so far in resisting a new build with one of the Millennium bodies that were highlighted here recently.
Also, the preamp is getting re-capped, and the bridge is getting fitted with Graphtech Ghost Piezo Saddles.
I'm refinishing the G Bass body. Still working on getting all that poly off. The body will be stained yellow, get a Tru Oil finish, and black bridge and knobs.
Let me know if that measurement isn't helpful. I can ask my luthier to measure one of the necks from nut to heel.
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Sounds like a FULL restoration and we can't wait to see it !!!!
We'll, the re-cap definitely falls into the restoration category, but I think the rest is just my insatiable appetite for mods. Which in this case, is partially fueled by a dislike of polyurethane and sparkles.
Was digging out a T-40 earlier to get a few measurements for someone , spotted the G-bass case in the middle of a pile. Great thinks I , two birds -1 stone
Alas the G-bass case is empty
How the heck did I lose a G-bass ?
I got my luthier to measure the neck from nut to heel=24 3/4"
So if the neck is perfectly fit in the pocket, it should be 29 1/8" from nut to pup.
It's over here with me. Thanks for letting me borrow it this longWas digging out a T-40 earlier to get a few measurements for someone , spotted the G-bass case in the middle of a pile. Great thinks I , two birds -1 stone
Alas the G-bass case is empty
