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U.S. Peavey Club

Dumb question----

For polarity aren't the plastic covers the only difference.. meaning couldn't you just flip it 180 to have the correct polarity (assuming they're in the wrong positions)?


Super Ferrites are epoxied and I know of no method to remove it that's reliable. The bridge and neck PUs are magnetically out of phase. This combined with being wired electrically out of phase is what makes a pair humbucking when blended together. Don't remember which is which.

You can determine which you need with a compass or a magnet with known poles but it'd be best to get a pair.

There is another possibility for failure other than the coil being open. Strip the insulation back a little from the end that is soldered to the controls and see if the bare ground wire has melted through the insulation of one of the other wires. This can happen when too much heat is used for soldering the wires. I've seen and made PU "failures" like this that worked for years before contact was made between the wires. A high resistance contact from this type of failure can also cause a "weak" PU.

mech
 
Mech,
Thanks for the info. Very useful. I'll continue to check the electronics. Haven't necessarily determined that the pickup is the problem, but it sure looks like it.

This is where I wish I knew more about electronics.

Worse case...anyone know of other pickups that will fit without routing? I don't want to disturb the body.

Is there a difference between the SF Bridge pickup and and the neck pickup? The bridge pu is the problem at the moment.

I plan on watching for a correct replacement, so if anybody spots one, please pm me. (Thanks for the leads already, Staccato and MNAirhead.)

Joel
 
I think that the reverse polarity is usually up/down (relative to the top surface of the bass) rather than right/left because the coils are wound vertically, but it ould be done rigtht/left if the coils are wound horizontally.



Wouldn't a down pointing (or up pointing) magent be the otherway if the pickup was flipped 180 on the X Axis?

Meaning the only difference would the text print out on the cover?
 
Mech,
Thanks for the info. Very useful. I'll continue to check the electronics. Haven't necessarily determined that the pickup is the problem, but it sure looks like it.

This is where I wish I knew more about electronics.

Worse case...anyone know of other pickups that will fit without routing? I don't want to disturb the body.

Is there a difference between the SF Bridge pickup and and the neck pickup? The bridge pu is the problem at the moment.

I plan on watching for a correct replacement, so if anybody spots one, please pm me. (Thanks for the leads already, Staccato and MNAirhead.)

Joel



Joel..

I've never known (or seen) a ferrite to go bad...

Is there any possiblity that you can post some pix of the control cavity?

There was a rumor in the 90s that the bass would be better when re-dorking the controls and caps.

MOST folks do not do clean work (we'd be able to see the modifications)... this would be a clue that its been played with. .. if this were the case, we'd start by rewiring it to factory spec.

Tim

PS --- Florida Tony C --- PM me --- I sent Joel pix of a donor that has your needed preamp.. there may be a possiblity that I could get both of your basses going for cheap.
 
I'll get some good shots tonight and see if that helps

I have a 40+ year broadcast engineer friend who is willing to to the appropriate tests on the pickup and pot tomorrow as well.




Joel..

I've never known (or seen) a ferrite to go bad...

Is there any possiblity that you can post some pix of the control cavity?

There was a rumor in the 90s that the bass would be better when re-dorking the controls and caps.

MOST folks do not do clean work (we'd be able to see the modifications)... this would be a clue that its been played with. .. if this were the case, we'd start by rewiring it to factory spec.

Tim

PS --- Florida Tony C --- PM me --- I sent Joel pix of a donor that has your needed preamp.. there may be a possiblity that I could get both of your basses going for cheap.
 
depends on the factory of origin.....Chineese children don't make basses as well as Indonesian kids....Overall BXP have a huge Schecter vibe

There's a current thread on it today

I ask because, after reading all the high-praise this bass gets on this forum, I saw a used five string at a local store so I figured I should give it a chance... I was - how to say - less than impressed. VERY fat neck, dull sound. I think it was an Indo or Vietnam bass (it was selling for ~$300 used)
 
I ask because, after reading all the high-praise this bass gets on this forum, I saw a used five string at a local store so I figured I should give it a chance... I was - how to say - less than impressed. VERY fat neck, dull sound. I think it was an Indo or Vietnam bass (it was selling for ~$300 used)

Harry...
Chances are your notations are correct. I've read tons of your posts.. much of what you'll find in the Peavey cult are folks who "right size" the tool and love for the budget and gig.

I'm aware you've played some fantastic bases with even better setup.

Chances are the bass you played may not be an obscure golden era (import/prototype era)...

If it was in the realm of schecter "wow" it's just another BXP.. they're not bad when setup.. for a more tenured player, you'll be tough to find an honest guy who'd point out that for an additional $300 you can find a usa cirrus or millenium that will rival botiques (after setup correctly).

One of the reasons I'm leary about suggesting BXP is they're not as rock solid cosistent as golden era USA gear.

OPINION: later ones were built to meet GC price points - in the music industry the customer is often GC - not the gigger or student.
 
I don't think it is. Someone has added aluminum shielding.

Are you talking about a Foundation? If so, that cheezy looking foil shielding is factory stuff, even tho it looks kinda hacked. It's stapled onto the wood sides of the cavity.

Also, the stock wiring includes a few little capacitors, that comprise Peavey's "Tone Compensation" circuit. It is meant to preserve treble when volume is rolled down.

If you request an early Foundation wiring diagram from Peavey, they will send a typical V-V-T jazz bass diagram (ala Fender), not the original wiring scheme with the little caps in there.

This gold Foundation is an '83, you can see three additional caps.

101_0994.jpg


This white '84 has two caps for the TC circuit.

101_0996.jpg
 
That looks all kosher to me. Can you read the values on the two tiny capacitors? I cant read any of mine, not even with a loupe.

I'm pretty sure they are .0047uF, the same as the T-40/60. Any voltage will do.

Oldrookie....the bare ground wire on the neck PU looks VERY short. This leads me to believe the insulation is melted on the black wire that goes to the center lug on the pot and is shorted to ground. Be sure and have your tech check this first.

Tim...for the magnetic polarity to be swapped the bottom of the PU where the wire comes in would have to be toward the strings. The magnet structure, when viewed from from the end looks like an inverted "T" with a vertical pole piece that has two magnets forming the cross bar at the bottom of the PU. The bottom of the magnet structure is one pole and the top is the other.

mech
 
Tim...for the magnetic polarity to be swapped the bottom of the PU where the wire comes in would have to be toward the strings. The magnet structure, when viewed from from the end looks like an inverted "T" with a vertical pole piece that has two magnets forming the cross bar at the bottom of the PU. The bottom of the magnet structure is one pole and the top is the other.

mech

Thanks.. learn something new every day..... When they're so inexepensive my first thought is to shrug it off and find another... we're now getting to the point where repairs make sense.

Tim
 

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