Howdy folks, I was wondering, the guy whose making the repo Super Ferrites, has he made a version of the big T20 and Fury pickups? Just curious, my gold slant Fury with the Foundation neck is one of my favorite basses!
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U.S. Peavey Club
- Thread starter Soundchaser11460
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Supadope
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- Nov 30, 2015
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Yeah, one of my biggest regrets was passing on a BXP. Mrs Dope and I were on the way to somewhere in Tennessee and I noticed a music store off to the side while we were in a traffic jam. I forget the place, but they had a hardly any basses except for a large selection of uprights upstairs. Anyways, that BXP played great, sounded great, and looked amazing - Tiger Eye and I think it had a matching headstock. Wished I'd got it.
But, I've played some stinkers, too.
Aren't they both 35" scale? 21Frets. I'm sure I've heard of successful Millennium/GV mashups here before. I've never had a Millennium 5 but have a GV. Great bass, but I hardly ever pick it up..... or any other 5 for that matter.
Most were but it's Peavey so there's always an exception
There was a passive US Millennium 4 string, 34" scale length/PJ.
Pretty sure all the Millennium BXP were 34" scale, certainly both my active 4 strings were.
I had the USA MM/J models in mind.Most were but it's Peavey so there's always an exception
There was a passive US Millennium 4 string, 34" scale length/PJ.
Pretty sure all the Millennium BXP were 34" scale, certainly both my active 4 strings were.
Then you were thinking rightly, they were 21 fret 35" scale just the same as the GV
Got the proper knobs - thanks @Bleecker - and the truss rod cover will be here tomorrow.
Supadope
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Truss rod question: My neck has an upbow that I want to flatten. I'm tightening (turning clockwise) but it doesn't seem to be doing anything. I've done over two full rotations. Should I keep tightening or try something else?
Is it feeling like you are applying a lot of pressure, or does it feel easy to turn still?
Supadope
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Seems like a lot. I'm using a nut driver and I need pliers to get enough leverage.
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That’s too much force! You’re going to break something.
Best practice is to bend the neck using some other means - arms, legs, clamps, rhinoceroses - then gently tighten the truss rod nut to keep the neck in relief. The rods were not designed to exert enough force to actually do the bending.
Up bow? So you have a neck that’s curving away from the strings causing a large space between the strings and the frets in the middle of the neck?
By upbow, do you mean your strings are way too high? The headstock/fretboard is curving towards the front of the body, yes?
Can you see the rod's threads sticking out of the top of the brass truss rod nut? ....how many threads?
Loosen your strings until they are floppy loose....then tell us what the neck is doing.
After that, you might want to loosen the truss rod nut until you take it off the truss rod, it might need a few (two or three) small washers put on the rod and then the nut can go back on and start the process over. Also a little dab of vaseline inside the nut before you re-install it.
Turn the truss rod with your strings loose, then tune up again and check it. I always like to tighten a truss rod while my strings are loose, then re-tune.
Can you see the rod's threads sticking out of the top of the brass truss rod nut? ....how many threads?
Loosen your strings until they are floppy loose....then tell us what the neck is doing.
After that, you might want to loosen the truss rod nut until you take it off the truss rod, it might need a few (two or three) small washers put on the rod and then the nut can go back on and start the process over. Also a little dab of vaseline inside the nut before you re-install it.
Turn the truss rod with your strings loose, then tune up again and check it. I always like to tighten a truss rod while my strings are loose, then re-tune.
Truss rod cover and proper knobs installed. Good as new, except for the 40+ years of wear, which does not show at all in the photo, lol.
This is what I learned... neck pockets worked.. bridge would need to moveMost were but it's Peavey so there's always an exception
There was a passive US Millennium 4 string, 34" scale length/PJ.
Pretty sure all the Millennium BXP were 34" scale, certainly both my active 4 strings were.
Thought Fury fans out there would find this interesting. I have six versions from 84-95 and they each have something different about their branding. From 84 to 88 they changed the order and sizing of Peavey Fury, the 89 is just a color difference because of non maple neck, the first 92 moved Peavey up to the top, the later 92 went with block Peavey and moved the USA to the back, and the 95 block has the USA back onto the front.
Getting the variations was largely coincidental but wondering if anyone's noticed other changes. Wouldn't call this an evolution as I personally like the first best.
Getting the variations was largely coincidental but wondering if anyone's noticed other changes. Wouldn't call this an evolution as I personally like the first best.
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Supadope
Supporting Member
- Nov 30, 2015
- 847
- 2,877
- Disclosures
- My goal is to leave the world a cooler place than when I arrived.
Back the nut all the way off and give it just a dab of vaseline.
Did the nut back off easily? ...the threads felt normal and not stuck or screwed up?
Look at the truss rod before putting the nut back on and see if anything looks somehow wrong.
Do the threads end before the square piece that the nut pushes on?
The Fury was a bulky kid but slimmed down for a time, 92 bad living had caught up and the Fury now sported a serious beer gut
