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U.S. Peavey Club

The price is just the market value and most Peavey's are gems in that range. The Peavey necks are as good as any for durability but like any other can be abused. I've seen more USA Fender necks with problems over the years than Peavey, especially the ski jump. It kind of boils down to "If it looks good, odds are that it is".

mech

+1. Agreed there really isn't a better bass in that price range.
 
The price is just the market value and most Peavey's are gems in that range. The Peavey necks are as good as any for durability but like any other can be abused. I've seen more USA Fender necks with problems over the years than Peavey, especially the ski jump. It kind of boils down to "If it looks good, odds are that it is".

mech

++1


Peavey Fury's are designed and built like tanks. If the bass looks like it's been taken care of, then it's almost certain to be fine.
 
So if I buy a used Fury, the P-bass type, sight unseen online what are the odds that it'll be a dog? Do the necks typically hold up?

I hear so many good things but the lowish going prices of $100 to $150 makes me think I'd better watch out.

One of the worst Fury's I've seen was given to me (an '83 slanted Super Ferrite). My brother picked it up at a pawn shop for almost nothing.
I got it home and it had a broken wire on the output jack, and someone tried to re-fit a bridge on it, but didn't line it up correctly. Super high action (that required a shim). Two of the tuners had a tremendous amount of play, and it had sticky crud all over it, including the fretboard and frets.
...but, it literally cost me zero dollars and about 3 hours of work to get it back into an outstanding (and great looking) bass. Like others have said, if the neck is straight, you have a tank of a P-bass. I love this thing:
20130129_132405.jpg
 
I've owned a few older Peavey's, including the Fury P and Patriot I currently own. All of them had extremely stable necks, and, with a little TLC, were able to be adjusted as if they were new. I keep expecting to get a dog eventually, but haven't yet.
 
So would you say a used Fury bought online is more or less likely to have a straight neck than a used MIM Precision similarly bought online?

Depends what year the MIM was made. Until recent years, I've never been impressed with MIM Fenders. They cut a lot of corners on MIM guitars in the 90's/early 2000's, and based on that alone, I'd give the edge to Peavey.

I have to say that although I occasionally hear of MIM neck problems, I can't ever recall hearing of a problem with a Peavey Fury neck.
 
One of the worst Fury's I've seen was given to me (an '83 slanted Super Ferrite). My brother picked it up at a pawn shop for almost nothing.
I got it home and it had a broken wire on the output jack, and someone tried to re-fit a bridge on it, but didn't line it up correctly. Super high action (that required a shim). Two of the tuners had a tremendous amount of play, and it had sticky crud all over it, including the fretboard and frets.
...but, it literally cost me zero dollars and about 3 hours of work to get it back into an outstanding (and great looking) bass. Like others have said, if the neck is straight, you have a tank of a P-bass. I love this thing:
20130129_132405.jpg
i bet those slanted super-ferrite fury's sound good. i like the built in thumbrest on the pickup surround as well. solo'ing the neck pickup on my foundation gets me, what i feel, is a really good p-bass like tone. personally, i think it out p's a p, and i own two fender p's.
 
I sold my B Quad 5 yesterday. It shipped out today. And my new Fury happened to arrive today.

I call it the Stealth Fury. Black everything. Pickup replaced with a Bartolini Hi-A pickup. I haven't really gotten to play it yet to comment on the sound. But, the action is the lowest of any bass I own!

20130819_154514_RichtoneHDR.jpg
 
Depends what year the MIM was made. Until recent years, I've never been impressed with MIM Fenders. They cut a lot of corners on MIM guitars in the 90's/early 2000's, and based on that alone, I'd give the edge to Peavey.

I have to say that although I occasionally hear of MIM neck problems, I can't ever recall hearing of a problem with a Peavey Fury neck.

The biggest difference in the Peaveys vs Fenders from the 80s is the people who owned them. Fenders, being more expensive, were purchased by people who took care of them. Peaveys, being less expensive, were considered "entry-level" by many and abused by kids and beginners. All other things being equal except price, the Peavey basses are quite a bit better than Fenders from the same era.
 
I sold my B Quad 5 yesterday. It shipped out today. And my new Fury happened to arrive today.

I call it the Stealth Fury. Black everything. Pickup replaced with a Bartolini Hi-A pickup. I haven't really gotten to play it yet to comment on the sound. But, the action is the lowest of any bass I own!

20130819_154514_RichtoneHDR.jpg
Nice!
 
Where is all the Forum owners ?
It appears that there is not many around.
If you think their not that good that,s cool but I,m loving mine.
18 years old and everything works,no crackles,no hum just beefy tones until you crank the treble then into musicman country but more mids.Bass is cut and boosted at 256 hz so it says.
 
In addition to the T-40 I recently acquired and the T-20 I have coming to me, I think I'm going back to my local pawnshop to take another look at what turns out to be an '87 Foundation S (black, black PG, RW neck, black headstock) with P/J pups for $125.00. No case, though...will the plastic teardrop (coffin?) cases fit? Anyone here got a spare they'd like to sell reasonably?

I think I may have "Peave-disease"!!!! Before my back went out for good, I used to play around with vintage British motorcycles...BSA particularly. When we ended up "adopting" so many tired, broken bikes, we called it "Beeze Disease"....the official definition was "patient displays an unhealthy attraction to and acquisition of old, tired BSAs for no apparent reason. This disease is incurable, and HIGHLY contagious, infecting almost all who come in contact with patient!"

Does this seem familiar in any way? I'm quite sure I'm infected already!


Mike in Texas
 
Where is all the Forum owners ?
It appears that there is not many around.
If you think their not that good that,s cool but I,m loving mine.
18 years old and everything works,no crackles,no hum just beefy tones until you crank the treble then into musicman country but more mids.Bass is cut and boosted at 256 hz so it says.

I have a '94 P/J that I bought real, real used for $129 off the Interweb - might be my favorite neck of any bass, but electronically it is the single most frustrating device I have ever owned.
I want to love it - it's light, comfortable and the satin neck is unbelievable, but it was wrought with pickup issues when it arrived. They were noisy and lifeless - maybe half the volume output of any passive bass I own...and I had a grounding issue somewhere.
Turns out that someone had swapped out the original Peavey P/J set for a set from a Squier and only one-half of the P worked and the J was lifeless.

I swapped in an old EMG P/J set and it still was noisy/buzzy (which goes away when I touch the bridge - a pretty clear indicator that the bridge grounding wire is faulty). I shielded all the cavities with copper tape, put in new Fender 250k Pots and Cap, new Switchcraft output jack and all new wiring (including a new bridge ground). Still noisy and the grounding issue is still driving me nuts.

I bought a custom hand-wound P/J set from a guy in Philly and they exhibit the exact same issues. Low volume output and pretty thin sounding.

As an experiment, I direct wired both pickups and the bridge ground to the output jack - basically eliminating the V & T pots. They sound good - full on V & T (not my cup of tea) - but I still have the grounding issue. I think I've replaced and repositioned that grounding wire and bridge 6 times now and have resoldered everything a few times and I still cant get rid of the grounding issue. Once I do, I will love this bass - and by the time I'm done, it may have only cost me $1k - I kid, I kid...

Sorry for writing a book - needless to say it's a work-in-progress.

Here it is next to my '90 Fury:
DSCF5081.jpg
 
I have a '94 P/J that I bought real, real used for $129 off the Interweb - might be my favorite neck of any bass, but electronically it is the single most frustrating device I have ever owned.
I want to love it - it's light, comfortable and the satin neck is unbelievable, but it was wrought with pickup issues when it arrived. They were noisy and lifeless - maybe half the volume output of any passive bass I own...and I had a grounding issue somewhere.
Turns out that someone had swapped out the original Peavey P/J set for a set from a Squier and only one-half of the P worked and the J was lifeless.

I swapped in an old EMG P/J set and it still was noisy/buzzy (which goes away when I touch the bridge - a pretty clear indicator that the bridge grounding wire is faulty). I shielded all the cavities with copper tape, put in new Fender 250k Pots and Cap, new Switchcraft output jack and all new wiring (including a new bridge ground). Still noisy and the grounding issue is still driving me nuts.

I bought a custom hand-wound P/J set from a guy in Philly and they exhibit the exact same issues. Low volume output and pretty thin sounding.

As an experiment, I direct wired both pickups and the bridge ground to the output jack - basically eliminating the V & T pots. They sound good - full on V & T (not my cup of tea) - but I still have the grounding issue. I think I've replaced and repositioned that grounding wire and bridge 6 times now and have resoldered everything a few times and I still cant get rid of the grounding issue. Once I do, I will love this bass - and by the time I'm done, it may have only cost me $1k - I kid, I kid...

Sorry for writing a book - needless to say it's a work-in-progress.

Here it is next to my '90 Fury:
DSCF5081.jpg

When you grounded the bridge, did you use any copper tape?

Sometimes the wires gets squished down into the finish and doesn't contact the bridge well enough. When I run into that, I use a piece of conductive copper shielding tape on both the bottom of the bridge, and directly on the finish where the wire was. That usually provides enough contact for a really good ground.

If it still acts up, try star-grounding.

Also, did you run a ground wire from the shielding?