U.S. Peavey Club

[Relsom]

I think there is a way to clean pots from the front, they make a thread on fitting with a hose and you squirt contact cleaner through the hose and it cleans the pots from the front, the contact cleaner seeps through around the shaft.

I think you'd have to squirt a hell of a lot of cleaner in through the shaft to get any on the wiper to do any good without suffering any of the undesired effects of such cleaners. Those little ports on the back of the housing is where you need to be. Pain to get to them, but I would say is the proper method.

 

[songwriter21]

Together at last.

 

[songwriter21]

Btw, I found out yesterday from my luthier, about the mid-sweep pots (Milly pre) being unrepairable, due to them being sealed pots. Booooooo. Hopefully mine survive! I have simply moved the dial back and forth, like someone suggested, and that seemed to remedy the scratchiness.

 

[mesaplayer83]

Btw, I found out yesterday from my luthier, about the mid-sweep pots (Milly pre) being unrepairable, due to them being sealed pots. Booooooo. Hopefully mine survive! I have simply moved the dial back and forth, like someone suggested, and that seemed to remedy the scratchiness.

I've had excellent luck using Caig Deoxit D5 - if a tiny shot of that doesn't do it, then nothing will...

 

[mesaplayer83]

I think you'd have to squirt a hell of a lot of cleaner in through the shaft to get any on the wiper to do any good without suffering any of the undesired effects of such cleaners. Those little ports on the back of the housing is where you need to be. Pain to get to them, but I would say is the proper method.

Yeah, trying to clean/lube thru the shafts is futile, and more likely to make things worse, not better... The is definitely a way to properly clean and lube those pots, although it may involve pulling the preamp out to do it...

 

[mesaplayer83]

Yeah, trying to clean/lube thru the shafts is futile, and more likely to make things worse, not better... The is definitely a way to properly clean and lube those pots, although it may involve pulling the preamp out to do it...

I've also heated one of the tubes that comes with a can of D5 and carefully bent it into a J hook shape to get into tough places...

 

[songwriter21]

That's odd that you can? get into that pot, after my tech saying they're sealed.

 

[PeaveyPlayer]

Together at last. View attachment 1196899

Saw Your post on Facebook!

Your cirrus gives me cirrus GAS

 

[songwriter21]

Saw Your post on Facebook!

Your cirrus gives me cirrus GAS

Thanks, man--I love showing these beasts off! It's nothing short of crazy, how my Peaveys really rival the best of what I played at NAMM years back. The Cirrus' action, especially, is like a Saratoga that I played at Mike Tobias' booth...action that almost plays itself. Warrior had amazing action, too, along with Mike Lull, but the MTD just was better. I can't explain why, but it just was, and that's what I remember. These Peaveys remind me of that!

 

[Runnerman]

Thanks, man--I love showing these beasts off! It's nothing short of crazy, how my Peaveys really rival the best of what I played at NAMM years back. The Cirrus' action, especially, is like a Saratoga that I played at Mike Tobias' booth...action that almost plays itself. Warrior had amazing action, too, along with Mike Lull, but the MTD just was better. I can't explain why, but it just did, and that's what I remember. These Peaveys remind me of that!

I agree...the setup on my Millennium is insanely low and buzz free. Like no other bass I've owned.

 

[jmlee]

Got myself a very nice US Cirrus 6 and just finished doing some upgrades. Peavey USA found me a replacement trussrod cover gratis (thanks!), I brought the motley crew of 4 different tuner types up to 6 high-quality Gotohs, and I then replaced the underwhelming preamp with an Audere Classic: volume, pickup balance, upper mid, lower mid, and stacked bass/treble—with added gold knob bling. I deliberately reversed the pickup leads on the balance so that clockwise gives me more bridge pickup bite, and counter-clockwise gives me more neck pickup warmth. In use, this seems so much more natural to me (a bit the way a passive tone control works) and I can't think why I haven't done it before. With some DR Pure Blues (30-125) on it, the bass plays like butter, looks beautiful, and sounds tremendous. All in, under $1000 US. How can you beat that?

 

[Runnerman]

^^^^^ Freaking gorgeous!!!

 

[songwriter21]

View attachment 1197128

Got myself a very nice US Cirrus 6 and just finished doing some upgrades. Peavey USA found me a replacement trussrod cover gratis (thanks!), I brought the motley crew of 4 different tuner types up to 6 high-quality Gotohs, and I then replaced the underwhelming preamp with an Audere Classic: volume, pickup balance, upper mid, lower mid, and stacked bass/treble—with added gold knob bling. I deliberately reversed the pickup leads on the balance so that clockwise gives me more bridge pickup bite, and counter-clockwise gives me more neck pickup warmth. In use, this seems so much more natural to me (a bit the way a passive tone control works) and I can't think why I haven't done it before. With some DR Pure Blues (30-125) on it, the bass plays like butter, looks beautiful, and sounds tremendous. All in, under $1000 US. How can you beat that?

Good stuff, and Claro Walnut to boot!

 

[Relsom]

Btw, I found out yesterday from my luthier, about the mid-sweep pots (Milly pre) being unrepairable, due to them being sealed pots. Booooooo. Hopefully mine survive! I have simply moved the dial back and forth, like someone suggested, and that seemed to remedy the scratchiness.

You can clearly see the wipers on these. This is a factory fresh Milli Preamp. The first photo shows the stacked mid control. You can see the wipers on either side of the black shell when operating the controls. The freq is nearest the shafts, the boost/cut is nearest the rear. The second pic is of the pan pot. Again the wiper is clearly visible as are the others. Sealed? ......pffft.

 

[songwriter21]

You can clearly see the wipers on these. This is a factory fresh Milli Preamp. The first photo shows the stacked mid control. You can see the wipers on either side of the black shell when operating the controls. The freq is nearest the shafts, the boost/cut is nearest the rear. The second pic is of the pan pot. Again the wiper is clearly visible as are the others. Sealed? ......pffft.
View attachment 1197322 View attachment 1197325

Interesting....

 

[Ronbeast]

Hello guys,

I was wondering if anyone knows of a set of direct replacement tuners for a 1991 dynabass?

I bought the bass a while back, and one of the previous owners changed the stock tuners for a set of locking tuners. While I'm okay with the quality of the tuners, they don't fit well and aren't very aesthetically pleasing. I'd like to get back as close to the stock gold tuners as possible. Thanks.

 

[mesaplayer83]

You can clearly see the wipers on these. This is a factory fresh Milli Preamp. The first photo shows the stacked mid control. You can see the wipers on either side of the black shell when operating the controls. The freq is nearest the shafts, the boost/cut is nearest the rear. The second pic is of the pan pot. Again the wiper is clearly visible as are the others. Sealed? ......pffft.
View attachment 1197322 View attachment 1197325

Yeah, the "sealed" thing didn't sound right to me, either - but I don't have one of those preamps to verify one way or the other... I will say it's not very common for those types of pots to be completely sealed...

 

[Landsharks]

Hello guys,

I was wondering if anyone knows of a set of direct replacement tuners for a 1991 dynabass?

I bought the bass a while back, and one of the previous owners changed the stock tuners for a set of locking tuners. While I'm okay with the quality of the tuners, they don't fit well and aren't very aesthetically pleasing. I'd like to get back as close to the stock gold tuners as possible. Thanks.

I think the originals were Schaller M4S with the 2 pins and Grover makes the Titan but these have screws instead of the 2 pins. I'm pretty sure these can be found. Good luck.

 

[NicJimBass]

Together at last. View attachment 1196899

I may have missed it somewhere... what's the info on the the bridge on the Cirrus? Looks like an elongated Hipshot B bridge.

 

[songwriter21]

I may have missed it somewhere... what's the info on the the bridge on the Cirrus? Looks like an elongated Hipshot B bridge.

I posted that info in the US Cirrus Club (I think). I can't stand ABM bridges, and like before for me, it didn't allow me to even get close to the low action I prefer. I like action fairly close to the frets, so off went the stock bridge. I then made up the current bridge, as a "why not, I'll try it" combination of parts, when I almost gave up finding the right bridge. Originally, I put on a Hipshot A, and discovered that the base plate isn't as long as the ABM, so the intonation couldn't be fixed. I went through two more ABM's, with one having worse action than the stock, and another that was a vintage/barrel style that was pulling out. I then tried a Schaller, and the spacing wouldn't fit. I was not into drilling more holes.

So, I combined the Hipshot plate, ABM barrel saddles/screws/springs, and then to have long enough springs to not rattle on the longer-intonated G and D, I used the Schaller's. The barrel saddles have the height screws sitting further back than the Hipshot A's saddles, so I was able to get more room to intonate properly.

Whew!