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U.S. Peavey Club

New to me ‘94 Fury. This will be a project bass but it plays pretty amazing as is. The neck is in perfect condition.

3A32B72D-1D1D-4394-90FD-1F6CCA5CDF0A.jpeg
 
The Millennium 5 arrived and would be as new except for a small and slight depression on the upper horn and some discoloration on the maple fingerboard where fingers have touched. The frets show almost no wear but do need polishing. The back of the neck needs to be sanded smooth and redone with Tru Oil. The neck has no damage or wear to the back but feels a little rough as though moisture has raised the grain. The original case was included with the hang tag and the owner's manual. Quite the score for what I paid for it.

If anyone has info on how to clean the finger oil off the maple fingerboard I would appreciate you telling me how you do it.

I believe I will put a set of TI Flats on this one after I get it cleaned up. The neck has almost no relief in it now so I will likely have to reduce truss rod tension for the TI's which are fairly low tension strings.
 
If anyone has info on how to clean the finger oil off the maple fingerboard I would appreciate you telling me how you do it.

Better suggestions may come along, but firmly rubbing with a clean cotton cloth and some alcohol should do the trick, and won't harm anything.
Congrats on the new score !! I got my first bass a few weeks back, also a Peavey, but only a bottom-of-the line Milestone II off my local Craigslist for $80, and I'm loving this thing !
 
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Better suggestions may come along, but firmly rubbing with a clean cotton cloth and some alcohol should do the trick, and won't harm anything.

Actually, alcohol will damage lacquer. Admittedly most Peaveys are poly finish but in case someone ends up with one that was finished/refinished with lacquer, naptha is a safer alternative.
 
Actually, alcohol will damage lacquer. Admittedly most Peaveys are poly finish but in case someone ends up with one that was finished/refinished with lacquer, naptha is a safer alternative.

Not trying to start a pissing match or anything, just shooting the breeze here, but i got curious and did a search, and found some contrary info:

Invalid Link Removed
Can I Clean Lacquer Furniture With Alcohol?
Denatured alcohol may be a strong enough solvent to soften some types of lacquer, but if it does, it will do so slowly. A quick swipe across your lacquered table with alcohol probably won't harm the finish, but persistent rubbing with alcohol might. It's best to test a small area first.
Most Lacquers Resist Alcohol
By itself, alcohol dissolves shellac, but not most lacquers, including nitrocellulose, acrylic, waterborne and two-part catalytic varieties. Some types of alcohol, such as methanol, may be an ingredient in some brands of lacquer thinner, but it's usually added to reduce cost......


Invalid Link Removed

......(In my experience -- and I've worked with a lot of lacquered brass -- I've never seen alcohol (or ANY other solvent - not even paint remover) -- attack cured lacquer.)......

.......IPA, isopropyl alcohol works well. It degreases and doesn't attack the lacquer.....

.......Regarding lacquers: Nitrocellulose is soluble in ethyl alcohol, but SLOWLY. It wouldn't dissolve any appreciable amonunt during the time it takes to do a fast wipe unless it was HOT.

(from another site).....Isopropyl alcohol is not strong enough to remove finishes effectively from wooden surfaces, but it is useful in the refinishing process as it will clean residue from the bare wood.....
 
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Not trying to start a pissing match or anything, just shooting the breeze here, but i got curious and did a search, and found some contrary info.

Agree, not trying to start an argument, and I should have been more clear in my original comment so here is some clarification:

Some alcohols will dissolve some lacquers.

Specifically I have had isopropyl alcohol very rapidly (in just the few seconds I took to wipe it on and off again) attack soft lacquer that was just a few days old. In my case I was applying more coats so no permanent harm was done but had that been on a final finish it would have been a disaster.

"Denatured alcohol" is ethanol and that may be safer, not sure.

Bottom line is there is some risk to using alcohol as a cleaner so I would still recommend naptha.
 
Not trying to start a pissing match or anything, just shooting the breeze here, but i got curious and did a search, and found some contrary info:

Invalid Link Removed
Can I Clean Lacquer Furniture With Alcohol?
Denatured alcohol may be a strong enough solvent to soften some types of lacquer, but if it does, it will do so slowly. A quick swipe across your lacquered table with alcohol probably won't harm the finish, but persistent rubbing with alcohol might. It's best to test a small area first.
Most Lacquers Resist Alcohol
By itself, alcohol dissolves shellac, but not most lacquers, including nitrocellulose, acrylic, waterborne and two-part catalytic varieties. Some types of alcohol, such as methanol, may be an ingredient in some brands of lacquer thinner, but it's usually added to reduce cost......


Invalid Link Removed

......(In my experience -- and I've worked with a lot of lacquered brass -- I've never seen alcohol (or ANY other solvent - not even paint remover) -- attack cured lacquer.)......

.......IPA, isopropyl alcohol works well. It degreases and doesn't attack the lacquer.....

.......Regarding lacquers: Nitrocellulose is soluble in ethyl alcohol, but SLOWLY. It wouldn't dissolve any appreciable amonunt during the time it takes to do a fast wipe unless it was HOT.

(from another site).....Isopropyl alcohol is not strong enough to remove finishes effectively from wooden surfaces, but it is useful in the refinishing process as it will clean residue from the bare wood.....
Ive used hydrogen peroxide as well...i use it all over the house to clean and success cleaning filthy necks with it used sparingly...i have used naptha a lot on the board itself and occasionally isopropyl alcohol but the diluted version (50 or 70%).
 
Iso and naphtha to clean my bass?
A barely damp warm rag is enough most of the time.
If you need to do more...Naptha and clean rag, not Iso.
Luthiers have used Naptha to clean guitar bodies, pickguards and necks for years and years.
Finished maple necks should need nothing but a warm barely damp rag.
Unfinished fretboards with finger schmutz will clean up with Naptha.
I've also had success with unfinished fretboards using about ten drops of Simple Green Max and a soft scrub brush.
One of the reasons I like a maple neck/maple fretboard is they are finished and rarely need more than a wipe with a clean rag.
 
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One of the reasons I like a maple neck/maple fretboard is they are finished and rarely need more than a wipe with a clean rag.
Not true of US Lakland necks. They have a very light tru oil finish, using a dilute mix of tru oil and mineral spirits, and only 1 coat. I'm pretty sure that modern EBMM maple necks and fretboards get the same treatment, unless noted as having a poly finish (like the Classics). This is why you'll see a lot of heavily played EBMM basses will have nasty looking boards and necks, like a coal miner or mechanic has played them with dirty work hands. It's rarer to find a Lakland like this, probably because they're better maintained due to the price difference.
 
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GV Interchange Neck List
Let's make a list of all the basses that a GV neck will fit on --

Millenium - I can absolutely confirm a Millenium 5
Axcellerator - someone this week noted an Axcellerator (without all of the fasteners)

What else (guessing length and neck pocket)?

Does anyone know if an indonesian BXP Millenium and USA neck will interchange?
 
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Not true of US Lakland necks. They have a very light tru oil finish, using a dilute mix of tru oil and mineral spirits, and only 1 coat. I'm pretty sure that modern EBMM maple necks and fretboards get the same treatment, unless noted as having a poly finish (like the Classics). This is why you'll see a lot of heavily played EBMM basses will have nasty looking boards and necks, like a coal miner or mechanic has played them with dirty work hands. It's rarer to find a Lakland like this, probably because they're better maintained due to the price difference.
In that case, I would think mineral spirits would be a good way to clean it up and then hit it with a coat of Tru Oil & mineral spirits to get it back to perfect again.
 
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What wire gauge does he use? I intend to refresh my 83 Foundation. I was wondering what ohmage we should be able to read.
MN Airhead is the Peavey connected and just straight up Peavey DUDE. He has a solid reputation here on TB, too. Just saying. - Mike
PS - For those wondering WHAT the heck does MN Airhead mean ? He's from Minnesota and is a HUGE Volkswagen fan and user of vintage VW's.
 
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