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U.S. Peavey Club

MN Airhead is the Peavey connected and just straight up Peavey DUDE. He has a solid reputation here on TB, too. Just saying. - Mike
PS - For those wondering WHAT the heck does MN Airhead mean ? He's from Minnesota and is a HUGE Volkswagen fan and user of vintage VW's.

I know, he is the one who turned me onto them the day I posted her investigating about that low-cost Peavey Foundation I found on Craig's something like 10 years ago.

I have owned a T-40 and an RJ-IV, and still own the Foundation, plus one Patriot and one Fury.

Edit: I also forgot to mention my Axcelerator Plus.

I have looking at a 5-string Cirrus now.

One day I showed up at a lesson with my Foundation, and the teacher told me that Peavey was crap and that I should get a Fender. I stopped seeing this teacher.
 
WHAT the heck does MN Airhead mean ? He's from Minnesota and is a HUGE Volkswagen fan and user of vintage VW's.

Yea.. there was a season in my life I was obsessed with Aircooled Cars (still have some)... it was the same handle I used on the Pre 72 VW sites. I've since ventured into other small sissy cars (not as obsessed anymore)
 
I've set up at least 400 of them...

Everyone of them needed the bridge raised and the neck heel shimmed.. low tension strings dont setup well on a millenium

The neck already had a shim in place so that explains why the bridge saddles were not bottomed out. The soiled areas on the neck did not respond very well to the damp warm cloth or the naptha. It cleaned up some and really does not look too bad so I will live with it. I installed a new set of TI flats and the bass set up well. The G string on this bass tends to buzz on the first fret so the action is just a tiny bit higher than I would normally set it. It still feels good and plays very well. The tone is fantastic with the TI's on it. I will play it in church Sunday morning.

By the way, I rubbed the neck down with OOOO steel wool and it feels great. That is all it needed.

Thanks very much to all of you for the advice on getting this Millennium playing and looking its best.
 
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The neck already had a shim in place so that explains why the bridge saddles were not bottomed out. The soiled areas on the neck did not respond very well to the damp warm cloth or the naptha. It cleaned up some and really does not look too bad so I will live with it. I installed a new set of TI flats and the bass set up well. The G string on this bass tends to buzz on the first fret so the action is just a tiny bit higher than I would normally set it. It still feels good and plays very well. The tone is fantastic with the TI's on it. I will play it in church Sunday morning.

Thanks very much to all of you for the advice on getting this Millennium playing and looking its best.
I've found shimming the neck and raising the bridge is the equation.
 
MN Airhead is the Peavey connected and just straight up Peavey DUDE. He has a solid reputation here on TB, too. Just saying. - Mike
PS - For those wondering WHAT the heck does MN Airhead mean ? He's from Minnesota and is a HUGE Volkswagen fan and user of vintage VW's.
Ahhh, an air cooled man. I have some friends that are old VW fans, and I’d love to pick up a restored bus someday. I rode around in a mid 70s VW bus my whole childhood. It was my grandfathers.
 
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'87 Foundation. Just got it today. This is the first Peavey bass I've played in a long, long time. Super stoked!

foundation.png
 
Ahhh, an air cooled man. I have some friends that are old VW fans, and I’d love to pick up a restored bus someday. I rode around in a mid 70s VW bus my whole childhood. It was my grandfathers.
'87 Foundation. Just got it today. This is the first Peavey bass I've played in a long, long time. Super stoked!

View attachment 3582281
Is that white, cream, or natural? I can't quite tell. Which ever it is it looks fantastic.
 
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Several things about USA Peavey basses puzzle me. The Cirrus basses were the top of the line...but only the Custom shop Cirrus basses got the Millennium preamp and Hipshot hardware. The production Cirrus basses were built with tuners similar to Gotoh, ABM bridges and a preamp lacking the sweepable mids. The Millennium got the pre with the sweepable mids but the maple fingerboards got no hard finish (as used on the very pedestrian Fury) so the maple fingerboards on Millennium basses tend to get stained if the player is not careful to keep his hands clean.

I don’t get it. However, I have to say that my production Cirrus basses are wonderful just as they are. I absolutely would not change anything but the strings. My Millennium 5 with a stained maple fingerboard just kills. Yeah, I would prefer the fingerboard to be clean but this is an amazing bass. I owned several USA Lakland 5’s and they didn’t come close to the tone of my Millennium.

There are 7 USA Peavey basses in my collection and number 8 is on the way. Sick. I am sick...and happy. I am also single.
 
Near as I can tell from converting metric,and caliper variations.

It's either a #9 or #10 gauge and in 1 1/4" length. Don't see #9 gauge for sale so it must be #10 like this.

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Doubt the hex key head makes any difference.
So I went to Fastenal today and got the CORRECT black hex bolts for the Bquad. If anyone needs them, the correct dimensions are
10-32" x 1 1/4" part #2123169 Socket head Cap Screw Black Oxide Finish
 
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Not 100% certain but my gut feeling is the Cirrus Custom recycled surplus parts from the discontinued Millenniums.

Well, that would not surprise me. I prefer the ABM bridge and the Gotoh style tuners and am very content with the Cirrus preamp. I do wonder what a Cirrus sounds like with a Millennium preamp. I certainly much prefer the control knobs used on the Millennium and replaced mine with the ones used by Sadowsky, Pedulla and others.