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U.S. Peavey Club

#1,481
NickInMesa said:
What strings do you recommend? I like D'Addario but they're not the only ones.
Click to expand...


GHS seems to have the lightest guage if you don't want to file your nut. ..I have their tapes on my AGB.. were slender enough to NOT alter.

For oldies material, I have a Peavey BEAD.. your band mates will appreciate it when you don't walk over their spectrum slot.

I'd do it -- nuts can be replaced.. foundations are cheap enough that it's not a core mistake.
 
#1,482
MNAirHead said:
GHS seems to have the lightest guage if you don't want to file your nut. ..I have their tapes on my AGB.. were slender enough to NOT alter.

For oldies material, I have a Peavey BEAD.. your band mates will appreciate it when you don't walk over their spectrum slot.

I'd do it -- nuts can be replaced.. foundations are cheap enough that it's not a core mistake.
Click to expand...

I will probably have to adjust the neck after that. Again, what tool is it" :)

(Link, please)

As for filing the nut, not an issue, done that before with my build.

I'll make sure I put electrical tape a plenty on both side before filing.

Do they make flats for 5 strings?
 
#1,483
NickInMesa said:
I will probably have to adjust the neck after that. Again, what tool is it" :)

(Link, please)

As for filing the nut, not an issue, done that before with my build.

I'll make sure I put electrical tape a plenty on both side before filing.

Do they make flats for 5 strings?
Click to expand...

Normally it's 5/16.. all parts tool... there's a thread on this...do not adjust right away.. adjust before doing it -- then give it a few days to alter on it's own... 1/4 turn per day.

Nut -Yes take your time.. use a quality file... tape evertying.. takes me about an hour to do a nut (if necessary)

5er flats.. yes they do.. I find tapes to be slightly less muddy (better conversation piece too).

Used tapes are not a bad deal.. some TBers have sold me some.. my BEAD has some TB used tapes on it... tapes are the most gentle on your gear.
 
#1,484
RedTL51.jpg

May as well ask for a # and join the club since I'm checking the board almost every day.
Here's one of my TL-5s. I have another with SF pickups and 2 with HBs so I put T-40 pickups on this one and all chrome hardware. Added a SC/HB switch. Made the aluminum topnut, PU rings and TR cover. Wilkinson bridge to get better string to pickup margin. D-tuner on the E string.
Strung with Ernie Ball .130-.050

Pretty retro, huh?
mech
 
#1,485
mech said:
May as well ask for a # and join the club since I'm checking the board almost every day.
Here's one of my TL-5s. I have another with SF pickups and 2 with HBs so I put T-40 pickups on this one and all chrome hardware. Added a SC/HB switch. Made the aluminum topnut, PU rings and TR cover. Wilkinson bridge to get better string to pickup margin. D-tuner on the E string.
Strung with Ernie Ball .130-.050

Pretty retro, huh?
mech
Click to expand...

Drooling...
 
#1,489
twistd...you got a deal.

Thanks for the comps, guys.
It basically sounds like a T-40 with a little richer harmonic content. Nice mellow growl with plenty of fundamental. The body appears to be aldur and is pretty light. It was well abused when I got it. Lots of chips in the clear coat and a few raised frets. I'd never seen raised frets in an ebony board before. Neck is thin with a flat back. My other three are much more rounded.

It has an early Dynabass type pre. The B string is a taste weak due to the lack of pole peice width but it's easy to adapt to it. I had to use the Wilkinson bridge to get the G over the pole piece and the B ended up where it is. Actually makes the output more balanced.

Most common setting is Bass = flat, Mid = 3, Treble = 3, Balance centered, PUs on HB. I set the PU height for equal output so it's easy to change sounds by using the balance control.

Will post pics of others as time permits.
mech
 
#1,491
Found the post. thx Mine's an '89

BassicJohn said:
This isn't official, but it seems to be accurate:

8Mxxxxxx ............................................1978
0000xxxx t/m 0030xxxx ........................1978
0031xxxx t/m 0047xxxx ........................1979
0048xxxx t/m 0065xxxx ........................1980
0066xxxx t/m 0099xxxx ........................1981
0100xxxx t/m 0129xxxx ........................1982
0130xxxx t/m 0169xxxx ........................1983
0170xxxx t/m 0199xxxx ........................1984
0200xxxx t/m 0239xxxx ........................1985
0240xxxx t/m 0259xxxx ........................1986
0260xxxx t/m 0339xxxx ........................1987
0340xxxx t/m 0359xxxx ........................1988
0360xxxx t/m 0419xxxx ........................1989
0420xxxx t/m 0439xxxx ........................1990
0440xxxx t/m 0519xxxx ........................1991
0520xxxx t/m 0599xxxx ........................1992
0600xxxx t/m 0639xxxx ........................1993
0640xxxx t/m 0769xxxx ........................1994
0770xxxx >>.........................................1995
Click to expand...
 
#1,493
This is my favorite in the stable. It had a four knob preamp but I made a breadboard Dynabass pre for it and put the bypass switch between the Vol and Balance knobs. Made the TR, pocket and battery covers from sheet brass. No paint. It's hand rubbed with mineral oil and buffed on a regular basis.
KoaTL51.jpg

KoaTL52.jpg


xhawk5...you're right, the Dynabass was first run in 1985.
 
#1,495
twistd said:
My '96 starts with 088

If you email Peavey at the address below with the S/N, they will get back to you with the month and year. It took a few days, but they were very helpful (John M.)

[email protected]
Click to expand...

Actually, was this very recently? They screwed the pooch and lost the data somehow. Everybody now gets a form response saying the database is unavailable, making it seem temporary. but unfortunately I have a feeling it's gone. The list previously posted in this thread is basically all that's left.
 
#1,496
BassZilla5...It was a little complicated.
Installed the drop tuner in the E position to see how it fit.
Found the front of the lever would hit the B string gear box and the adjustment screw would hit the D string gear box.
I first ground off/shaped/polished the front of the lever to miss the gear box on the B tuner.
Removed the D string tuner, put masking tape in it's position, re-installed the D string tuner, penciled the outline and removed the tuner.
Found the tuning range needed for the drop tuner, made measurements based on outline of the D string tuner to find how much the adjustment screw had to be shortened to miss the gearbox on the D string tuner. Cut the screw with threaded bolt cutters and reformed the tip.
Had to shorten the adjustment screw spring a few turns and stretch it to keep it from stacking up but still have decent tension on the screw.
Access to the knurled knob is a little tight but everything works fine.

Some tunes need the drop D to work right for me, so it was worth the effort.

I recommend looking at it carefully before making the first cut. Them things are damn expensive.
 
#1,498
mech said:
BassZilla5...It was a little complicated.
Installed the drop tuner in the E position to see how it fit.
Found the front of the lever would hit the B string gear box and the adjustment screw would hit the D string gear box....

...Some tunes need the drop D to work right for me, so it was worth the effort.

I recommend looking at it carefully before making the first cut. Them things are damn expensive.
Click to expand...

I knew the B-string tuner had to be an issue, but clearing the D-string tuner hadn't even occured to me... Wow, that's a lot of work. Awesome mod, though! +1 and what not...
But, since I got the five-string, the drop tunings are all I use my four string basses for anymore (I keep my Charvel tuned to drop D and my Peavey tuned one step down with the Hipshot taking it to drop C). Like I said, I was thinking about installing one on the B-string anyway (Drop A - mwahaha!), but I guess I better check my clearances first.
Thanks for the info!
 

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