OP:
If you read Lug's post, I thought it might be helpful to chime in with some information regarding wattage ratings of bass cabs. If it's a run-of-the-mill consumer-grade cab (which most are), please don't make the mistake of thinking that the cab can actually handle its wattage rating. Most consumer-grade cab manufacturers publish wattage ratings based on what amount of power will melt the voice coils (known as the "thermal" rating). Those manufacturers love to publish those ratings because the number sounds so impressive, especially to unsuspecting buyers. The real limiting factor with bass cabs isn't the thermal rating, but rather the *mechanical* rating (the limit of cone movement). You won't find consumer-grade cab manufacturers publishing those numbers! Goodness no! They want to keep those numbers hush hush! A safe rule of thumb to use is, the mechanical rating for consumer-grade cabs is about *half* of their thermal rating.
When I say "consumer-grade", I am referring to those commonly mass-produced cabs of various brands that you find all over the place. Their published wattage ratings are thermal, not mechanical. However, there are a few boutique cab builders that don't play that sneaky game. You can actually trust their published wattage ratings because they are more representative of what their cabs can actually handle. A few examples of those cab builders are Jim Bergantino, Alex Claber (Barefaced cabs), Duke LeJeune (Audiokinesis), and Greenboy (fEarful, fEarless).
So, for your cab, you should plan for about 1000 watts max. With your amp putting out 800 watts into a 4 ohm load, you have a good match.
EDIT: I just read that your cab is a Behringer. So you had better ratchet down the cab's power handling capability to around 500 watts RMS.
Hope that info helps!
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