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Wal Bass Club.

Hi again

Decided to take my Pro II to a luthier in town in order to get it re-fretted and fix the electronics. Hopefully there will be no more scratch noise or switch glitch after the guy is done with it. And it's gonna be nice to play on frets that are rounded, giving a bit of distance between the strings and the blard, as opposed to flat.
 
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Hi again

Decided to take my Pro II to a luthier in town in order to get it re-fretted and fix the electronics. Hopefully there will be no more scratch noise or switch glitch after the guy is done with it. And it's gonna be nice to play on frets that are rounded, giving a bit of distance between the strings and the blard, as opposed to flat.
What was wrong with the electronics?
 
So, here I go again. This is what my last post was supposed to look like:

Decided to take my Pro II to a luthier in town in order to get it re-fretted and fix the electronics. Hopefully there will be no more scratch noise or switch glitch after the guy is done with it. And it's gonna be nice to play on frets that are rounded, giving a bit of distance between the strings and the board, as opposed to having to play on flat metal.

Looking inside the bass, the components seem to be original stuff – except from possibly the master volume pot, which look different from the other four. Looking at the attached images, could any Pro owner here tell whether or not the master vol pot could be original or a newer component? (Having searched images through Google, not much has been found, except an image from the Wal Bass History Blog, which shows, as far as I can see, five similar pots under the hood.)

IMG_5830.JPG
IMG_5831.JPG
IMG_5832.JPG
 
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@Jansson your master pot is definitely not stock. Even the installation of the replacement pot looks mediocre at best :rollno: . seems like a previous owner wanted to go with the same brand of Potentiometer, which were Radiohm, but didn't get the correct value. looking at the pot it looks like its a 220 but correct value should be 22 k.

if you look under the hood further and remove the screws from the scratchplate to check the other side of the PCB, make sure your careful with the pickup selector wires. they are really thin and can easily get ripped out from their solder joint (speaking from experience).:bag:
 
@Jansson your master pot is definitely not stock. Even the installation of the replacement pot looks mediocre at best :rollno: . seems like a previous owner wanted to go with the same brand of Potentiometer, which were Radiohm, but didn't get the correct value. looking at the pot it looks like its a 220 but correct value should be 22 k.

if you look under the hood further and remove the screws from the scratchplate to check the other side of the PCB, make sure your careful with the pickup selector wires. they are really thin and can easily get ripped out from their solder joint (speaking from experience).:bag:


Thanks for the information! I thought it looked funny. I'll pass all this info on to the luthier – maybe he can even do something about the master vol pot, so it ends up as best as can be considering the siutation.

I am aware this is an old instrument, and that various electronic components and hardware sometimes need to be changed. It is still a fine instrument, and well sounding too! But of course one wants it all to be original stuff when so much money has been spent on the instrument. I have very, very rarely seen Wal bases in Sweden, so I figure it is still worth (to me at least) to put some money into buying a Wal that obviously came with some issues.

Kulit17 (or anyone else): Do you have any idea of how much money one should be prepared to spend on a Pro II passive? And how much would a non-original pot affect the value of a bass guitar like this? Perhaps it doesn't matter – I intend to keep this instrument anyway.

Cheers
 
adding the club member number: 117 coldcashandcolderhearts smart move on keeping that blonde beauty!

Any other new owners I haven't seen? once again, the total list is:
1. Oddio
2. lbpark
3. bbocaner
4. Vegas532
5. Hippiesandwich
6. Idiezman
7. Brian Barret
8. Zombywoof5050
9. Hiperi0n
10. Jaymi
11. RonC72
12. Deksawyer
13. M5yates
14. The Hammer
15. tom5string
16. brothernewt
17. knarleybass
18. Anointd
19. cetera
20. cebe
21. incubus2432
22. Caca de Kick
23. Otter
24. evilgus
25. 4001
26. Toolmybass
27. pennex1
28. matthewfoote
29. AceWhip
30. Drop-D
31. WalWarrior
32. PazzoBasso
33. whodom
34. djaxup
35. kulit17
36. Pj,Rj,Hj
37. oli@bass
38. MC1970
39. eligilam
40. bigsnack
41. bassplace
42. Jam119
43. Zenter
44. Erkindanger!
45. Mojo-man
46. AndrewDavis
47. ZuluFunk
48. spiritchaser
49. marcos epm
50. Ricketboy
51. mesajoe
52. RenorCordic
53. Musicman 1901
54. Papersen
55. zazz
56. JAACA
57. Modlad69
58. sorgas
59. philbone
60. Nedsbassman
61. j.kernodle
62. Bass42
63. kubikixfactor
64. AlexBTATS
65. Tjluke
66. FrankChurchyard
67. Maedros
68. jimfist
69. Nibs208
70. hotrodjohn
71. Laneb
72. Melquides
73. Frankzelf
74. lordradish
75. hunterred43
76. bassballs27
77. bdgotoh
78. Surfbr
79. Walmark
80. Walfretless5
81. b-for-beatles
82. janforth
83. brconflict
84. spitskin
85. lang3735
86. Rickenbackerman
87. sgl
88. DigitalMan
89. Jeremy Paul Carroll
90. bass38
91. gargouill
92. kozyko
93. Mastabass666
94. BWorm
95. Marcin Łatko
96. Blundomatik
97. Hopper
98. Rusty
99. Nofrets5
100. AndroWal
101. bt1300
102. frigo
103. danweb22
104. Pjmuck
105. musomuso
106 Cuzin Locust
107. jro
108. Derek Smalls
109. Pushifier
110. Kevan
111. yzz
112. LowEndGroover
113. Jansson
114. Scuba Cult
115. Phantom Valley
116. Brandon Cancho
117. coldcashandcolderhearts
 
hello jansson,
thanks for the detailed pics of the board. i have a ProIIe that i am restoring right now, detailed pics of the circuit boards, be it passive or active, are always welcome.
right now i am waiting for an answer by paul, that will determine what i will do electronics-wise.
 
hello jansson,
thanks for the detailed pics of the board. i have a ProIIe that i am restoring right now, detailed pics of the circuit boards, be it passive or active, are always welcome.
right now i am waiting for an answer by paul, that will determine what i will do electronics-wise.

Glad someone else even found the pics useful! I just took the opportunity to ask the luthier to take a look inside the bass when I left it for service and re-fretting.
 
It doesn't matter. These basses don't sell at the same prices....one can be $500-1000-2000 different from the next, even being the same model.

I see. Well then it is diffucult to know if you pay a reasonable price. I think I paid a bit much, but like I said I don't very many of these bass guitars here in Sweden. And compared with the Wal Custom pricing on e.g. ebay, even what I paid for the Pro II could be considered cheap. But I suppose there is quite a difference between the Custom and the Pro series with regard to the choice of wood, lamination and all the other details?

As far as I understand, only about 700-800 Wal Pros were ever made? If that be the case, then it's no wonder you don't see them all too often on ebay and similar sites.
 
hello jansson,
thanks for the detailed pics of the board. i have a ProIIe that i am restoring right now, detailed pics of the circuit boards, be it passive or active, are always welcome.
right now i am waiting for an answer by paul, that will determine what i will do electronics-wise.

here's more for your viewing pleasure from a Pro IIe

11241320784_85736573c0_b.jpg


17320663871_c9bd21e039_b.jpg
 
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