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Wal Bass Club.

#8,922
Has anyone here had a satin finished Sycamore top on their Wal? I am wondering if it's worth the high upcharge to protect the body wood with gloss, reading that sycamore a bit soft. Although it looks nice but I can perhaps send it to another luthier to have it refinished in gloss for much less than what is charged new. Still not sure about that, however.
 
#8,923
Here's the housing.... you can either buy it from Paul or attempt to mod the existing one.

Screenshot_20181118-155054_Photos.jpg


Screenshot_20181118-155257_Photos.jpg
 
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#8,924
LowEndHum said:
Has anyone here had a satin finished Sycamore top on their Wal? I am wondering if it's worth the high upcharge to protect the body wood with gloss, reading that sycamore a bit soft. Although it looks nice but I can perhaps send it to another luthier to have it refinished in gloss for much less than what is charged new. Still not sure about that, however.
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I would humbly suggest that you spend some time (preferably a LOT of time) playing your satin-finished bass and really listening to the tone and timbre before making any decision to alter the finish. I have a satin finished Wal fretless and feel (literally, in my sternum) that the lack of a hard finish allows the body to vibrate more freely and really adds to the warm, singing quality of the instrument. It’s my understanding that this is one of the reasons why early Fender basses, with their thin nitrocellulose finishes, are more desirable than their modern day counterparts with thicker polyurethane coatings. That said, it’s also true that modern day luthiers are sensitive to this issue and have become more adept at applying thinner polyurethane finishes. Nevertheless, if I were in your shoes, I’d still start with the satin finish and really play and listen to the instrument before making any decision on whether or not to add a hard finish.
 
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#8,927
ampegfuzz said:
Email into wal for a jack plate. Hopefully they don't take long to reply.

Edit: Anyone know the type of output jack is used for my Mk1? I might as well replace it while I'm in there rather then wait for it to go. I thought about getting both from wal but might be cheaper to get jack state side. IDK
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kulit17 said:
it's a switchcraft jack style 13..... I have a couple in the spare bin box.... u can get them from amplified parts.

Jack - Switchcraft, 1/4", Mono, 2-Conductor, Double Open Circuit
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i'd also recommend also buying one or two extra capacitors that connects the XLR from Paul. they are really easy to break.

17220626432_54d2939298_k-jpg.jpg
 
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#8,929
ampegfuzz said:
Email into wal for a jack plate. Hopefully they don't take long to reply.

Edit: Anyone know the type of output jack is used for my Mk1? I might as well replace it while I'm in there rather then wait for it to go. I thought about getting both from wal but might be cheaper to get jack state side. IDK
Click to expand...
I believe it is this Switchcraft socket...

Switchcraft Type 13 Series 1/4" Mono 2 Conductor Jack w/Nut & Washer, Isolated make Circuit

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

NEW - Swtichcraft® Type 13 1/4" Mono Isolated Make Circuit effect pedal outp | eBay
s-l1600.jpg
 
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#8,932
WaveyDavey said:
Coming attractions: a fretted Mk. 1 (quilted/spalted maple facings with rosewood fingerboard, black headstock -face only- and black hardware) to join my fretless Mk. 1. Shipping in early December.

Needless to say, I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas.
View attachment 3215796
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Just love the black headstock with white Wal logo. My new build will have this as well. Yours is stunning! The facings!
 
#8,938
Toolmybass said:
Honestly...with the 6 or 7 Wals that I have played. The heavier ones have always sounded better. To my ears anyways. I think I'm going to try and "work" on my buddy and get my Lacewood MKI back. But I'm betting he will want my Jazz as part of the deal. :-( But considering it just sits in the closet and I would never gig with it...it may happen.
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I totally agree with you buddy! The heavy Wal's rock!
 
#8,940
Interesting reply this am:

Thanks for your enquiry. We do offer a flush mount option on our new bass builds, but they are not a drop-fit on to older basses. The addition requires removing a fair bit of wood inside the control cavity to make it fit, so it's not typically something we recommend. Have you experimented with a selection of right angled cables/jacks?

What's your serial number?

Kind regards,

Philip.


I replied this am saying a know it will require a dremel to clean some wood out. But I sent a couple pics of my bass also. We will see how it goes.
 

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