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Yeah over in London at the Bass Gallery,
Imported it to the USA. Inlays are stickers lol. I’m obsessed with block inlays on my basses. Really adds to the look in my humble opinion, hopefully it’s not sacrilege to do it hahaha.
Interesting that most of the time the opaque ones have just the front of the headstock painted and sometimes they do both sides.... but I wonder about the back of the neck? Looks painted also...
Mine is painted top only, but if it had a stinger on the back that would have been really cool too. Not sure if I’ve ever seen a painted back on a Wal.
I believe that all of the painted ones are painted front and back on the body.
It’s the headstock and the back of the neck that has variations.
It’s the headstock and the back of the neck that has variations.
Well Paul confirmed that the lefty bass can not be corrected without tell tale signs of the repairs- i.e. glue joints wood patches and filler would just be sprayed over. He also confirms that what looks like a crack in the wood is in fact a crack in the wood. Unfortunately his reply did not state whether he would make a new neck, and if so how long would it take and of course he did not state the price ..... the saga continues....
Correct; Wals with painted/stained/gloss bodies will be finished on both front and back of the body. Wal didnt do half-paints.
The neck is up the the buyer: the headface could be painted or stained, the back of the neck could be painted or stained as well, or left natural. The back of the neck (or whole neck) could be black or matching the color body finish, and the headface can have a matching cap to the body.
The neck is up the the buyer: the headface could be painted or stained, the back of the neck could be painted or stained as well, or left natural. The back of the neck (or whole neck) could be black or matching the color body finish, and the headface can have a matching cap to the body.
The neck build goes into the same que as ordering a bass. I think Kulit waited 2.5 years to receive his neck. And as mentioned before, body had to be shipped for the neck to be fittted.
Yeah sorry for the confusion, the body on mine is fully painted just the headstock is painted on top not the back.
building a new neck wouldn't be considered a repair, so it would go in the standard queue. things like preamp repairs/maintenance usually go the front lines though. I had acquired a used Wal before that i wanted Paul to do preamp maintenance and leveling/polishing the frets and that actually only took a few months as well.
As Mike mentioned, i've actually had a neck made not to long ago for my Mk3. When the neck was built and it "settled in" i had to ship out out the body to Paul that I wanted it to fit into - this was after about 19-21 month after i placed my deposit for the neck. The cost of shipping out the bass body was pretty costly, but I also had to pay the taxes that Paul got hit with when the item hit UK soil. When i got the bass back I tried to fit it into another Mk3 that I owned, but it did not fit. This is pretty much why Paul requires the body, so he can properly fit the neck.
as far as neck repairs. i actually acquired a spare Pro neck a few years back that needed work. the back of the neck was splitting, which was wide enough to slip a pik in it. I had this repaired by a luthier stateside who did all the work for me. originally i was going to have him rebuild it as a fretless, but I went a step further and asked him to replace the fingerboard to maple. it came out pretty sick!!
does anyone have pictures of what the filter caps look like, the link in this old post is no longer. Just wanted to check mine and see the condition and if they’re original. Also how big of a job is it to replace them?
It's the two tiny beer can shaped ones, easy to replace if you're handy with a soldering iron.
Remove the circut boards.
Pay attention to the directional stripe on the side of the capacitor.
Remove old ones, solder in new ones.
While the boards are out I like to clean all the wire harness connectors and pins with Deoxit on a q-tip and a soak a tootpick for the female terminals.
Remove the circut boards.
Pay attention to the directional stripe on the side of the capacitor.
Remove old ones, solder in new ones.
While the boards are out I like to clean all the wire harness connectors and pins with Deoxit on a q-tip and a soak a tootpick for the female terminals.
Attachments
Thanks so much Mike, really appreciated it! Gotta give ‘em a look. Any recommendations on brands of caps to purchase specifically?
I believe the original is Nichicon, and I have a small bag of Nichicons now.
But for the 12 years Ive been replacing them I was buying whatever I found locally which worked just the same and never had an issue.
But for the 12 years Ive been replacing them I was buying whatever I found locally which worked just the same and never had an issue.
okay Mike here’s a head scratcher for you, I opened her up and found these… looks to me like 4.7uf and 40v??? Now I’m not sure what’s going on lol. I wrote an email to Wal directly, and spoke to walbasscollective too. Waiting to hear back from Wal, any thoughts from you or anyone here would be greatly appreciated. Here are the pics too.
